tugalo

Normal; and your fuse block is full of the same stuff. Some kind of anti-corrosive compound. Grab a tooth brush, a bunch of rags, and solvent of your choice. Scrub and rub till most of it is gone. Pinch together the female side of each contact, re-mate the two halves of the connector and see if your problem has been resolved. your fuse block has the same screw in the center of the connector on the fire wall side.

pull the plugs and put a little Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder. Spin it up, then re-intall the plugs....

My bet is that it is a mistake in labeling. none of the circuits mentioned draws enough power to warrant a relay....

go to a friendly junkyard and get a lighter socket from almost any cherokee......

If you have to go into the fuse block, it is the same as the C101 on the firewall side and is also full of the black preservative.

is your rig stick shift or auto? that connector looks like the connector for the transmission control, if you have a stick, it is not used. The 3 pin connector looks like the TPS connector, it is important. A voltmeter is pretty simple, everything on your truck is 12 volts DC. Set the meter to the DC value nearest to 12V. Then ground the black lead and put the red lead on whatever you are trying to measure. A good place to check if your meter is working and your technique is correct; put the black lead on the battery - post and the red lead on the + post. Meter should read 12vdc. Remember that some circuits are not powered until the key is on. If you are checking for a broken wire, put the meter on the lowest resistance setting (measured in ohms), the meter has an internal battery that supplies enough voltage to force a small current thru the wire if it is good (you have continuity), and you will read an ohms value. If you are looking for a ground, the ohms (resistance value) should be less than one ohm. Most automobile circuits are powered all the time and when you turn on a circuit, the switch applies a ground so that there is continuity for the power to flow.

Did you change the fuel filter?

look up cruisers tips on this forum and do them religiously !! Also, change your oil to a good synthetic like Rotella or Delo.

The junkyard is your friend. Go with a pair of wire cutters and cut the connector out when you pull the switch. Google how to depin the connector or if you preserve enough of the harness you can just spice it in. Our jeeps have a poorly designed electrical system and a big load goes thru the headlight switch, and it is imperative that you buy and install the headlight upgrade harness that puts the load thru relays instead of your switch. Full details on this mod can be found on this forum and it is super easy to do. Early Cherokees are exactly the same as our Comanches from the B pillar forward.

Had a Mopar headlight that would not work onetime.....it had the correct voltage, but the wiring had been over crimped and could not supply enough AMPS to light the light. Drove me crazy cause it had the voltage.....you could have a similar problem.

pretty easy to check

could mean that the pedal has sheared off the actuating shaft, happened to me in traffic. Quick welding job and done.

that looks like the coax from the antenna that should plug into the back of the radio. you can always to to the junkyard and get an antenna and a lead from almost any cherokee and replace the entire unit..... the little square connector looks like the connector for the footwell courtesy light.

under the dash, just forward of your left knee, just above the brake release.

Good info on the Delo diesel oil. i've been running Rotella T6 but based on the zinc content, i think i will switch.

The ECU or ECM controls the engine fuel management, injector firing times/ pulse widths, and most other engine functions. If the truck is running, i don't think the computer is bad, may be a chafed/shorted wire in the harness.

looks like C103, if so, it goes to pin B7 on the computer, the automatic transmission, and to the fuel pump relay...............

i have learned again (the hard way) to do a diligent search on the forum and PAY ATTENTION to what you read. Started a night trip and had no dash lights or tail-lights. Yep, hacked up trailer wiring and blown parking lamp fuse. did my reading and research AFTER i tore the dash apart to replace a perfectly good headlight switch. the guys like Hornbrod, Eagle, and Cruiser54 can save you a lot of time and pain

Look at the tanks in any mid-90's mopar. They are tough, tough, tough nylon and have a real radiator cap. they are shaped a bit differently but if you remove the bracket that mounts the OEM tank, you can mount them directly to the firewall. no issues with hood closing.

do a search. There is a post on here somewhere that explains how to remove and replace the pins in the fuse block. on that post is a link to the company that makes the pins and they have pins for most connectors. Your headlight connector is a weatherpak and the pins come out pretty much the same way. alternatively, i have seen weatherpak pins and connectors on ebay

yes there is a bolt hidden between the two connectors on the firewall side. remove the plastic dust jacket, remove the bolt, (some are 8mm, some are 1/4") and then separate the two halves of the connector. If i remember, the bottom half is held captive by the upper half. you may have to reinstall the bolts on the cabin side so that you have enough resistance to unplug the firrewall connector. for reference, look at your c101 connector, it is the same. be prepared to deal with the tar that jeep put inside the connector to prevent corrosion. there is a write up somewhere on this forum that gives the part number and source for the individual pins in the connector, along with directions on how to remove them.

I knew about the XJ and WJ boosters but in my neck of the woods, junkyards seem to want to charge more for Jeep parts. i was wondering about the boosters from other Dodges, Plymouths, Eagles, etc. etc.

Just out of curiosity, has anyone looked at the double diaphragm booster in other Mopars to see if they will fit an MJ?

wonder if Gen 1 Dakota taillight lenses would fit over your frames? Look very similar.

most of the connectors on Mj's are Weatherpak. You can find them on ebay................