tugalo

mine goes from full to 1/8 tank within 75 or so miles and then stays there till almost emply. I haven't had the guts to run it to emply either...........

sounds like the wiring to the sender is pinched and shorted out.........

that write-up should go into the DIY column for future reference.....greatly informative and concise.

once you have removed the bolt in the center of the connector on the firewall side, you can pull off the two halves of the connector. one side of the connector is held captive by the other. probably the black tar that jeep used to protect the contacts is holding the connector tight to the fuse block. just pry gently and it will come off. no need to remove individual contacts.....

Not to hijack a thread, but your rreply brings up a question Don. I have an 88 with the gauge temp sensor in the rear of the head and i have moved the computer temp sensor to the thermostat housing. Is it possible that my poor gas mileage is partially due to a low reading from the thermo sensor?

I'm a big fan of the mid 90"s Mopar coolant reservoir, it has a different shape, but it is made of HEAVY duty nylon and has a real pressure cap.

Why not go to the junkyard and pull the sensors from a Cherokee and try them out. If they solve the problems, you can leave them in or go buy new. Save a few bucks.

just leave it where it is and go to the junkyard. Find a 4.0 Cherokee with the sensor in the the thermostat neck and swap out the thermostat neck................might have to get the connector for the sensor so that you can extend your stock wiring.

Depending on the year of your truck, there could be two main connectors, C101 and the one going to the firewall side of the fuse block. Either way, they both have the bolt in the center and are removed in two sections.........

Since you are losing coolant, you may have a cracked head. I believe it was in 2000 that XJ's went to the 0331 head which had a new metal composition that was prone to cracking between the #3 and #4 cylinders. Look along the drivers side of the head where it attaches to the block and you will see the casting number. If it is 0331, that could give you a clue. Go over to the XJ forum naxja.com and you should find plenty of info.

The terminals just crimp on, no special tool. Soldering is without a doubt the strongest and most long lasting way to connect them. buy yourself an AC 115V soldering gun, heats up much faster and puts out more heat. Make sure you get the right kind of solder......

flat black module with wiring connected to both ends, Attached under the dash with velcro, just to the left of the steering column

the washer control wiring goes thru the connector on the back of the fuse block. Tthe connector on the engine side of the firewall is filled with a black weatherproofing goop that sometimes seeps into the contacts and insulates them from each other, blocking power. Check for 12VDC at the motor and then check it on the output side of the wiper delay module. If you have power coming from the module, but no power at the motor, chances are that your problem is in the firewall fuse block connector. it is a 2 part connector with a bolt in the center. remove the plastic dust covers, loosen the bolt, and separate the halves of the connector. I believe the upper half of the connector must be removed first but i am not sure. one half of the connector holds the other half captive. Once both halves are removed, clean out the goop, clean the contacts, reconnect, and test.

didn't i see on the forum somewhere tthat someone had used an OEM GM TPS at a far lower price than Mopar?

lug nuts with stainless covers are 19 mm, when the cover falls off they are 18mm. Since most tire places use SAE air wrenches and not metric, that is why the covers are wrenched off. Follow Eagles advice......

To switch out the gauges, get a complete instrument panel from an early Cherokee. As long as it has a cable drive speedo, it will work. While you're pulling the instrument panel at the pick and pay, get the oil pressure sender and the temp sender at the same time. The ones in your truck are simple switches to turn on the idiot lights. the smartest thing you can do is read this forum daily till you get familiar with your truck. There are guys on here that have done everything you have ever thought about doing or have seen almost every problem that has arisen in an MJ and they are happy to share that knowledge.....

i had no power at the motor. ran new wiring, turned key on had power, but motor no turn. Replaced motor from my parts stash. Works as advertised. The OEM wiring goes thru the C100 connector on the back of the fuse block and I didn't want to go into that beast again. Thanks to those who replied, good suggestions all.

remove the inner door panel, roll up the window, disengage the bottom end of the weatherstrip from the pin holding the bottom in place. spray a little silicone lube into the old weatherstrip, roll the window down, pull the top end of the strip loose and pull straight up. should slide right out.

that's what i needed, thanks Don. my problem is the windshield mister no workee, cannot measure power or ground at the pump connector. Wipers work normally so i jumped onto the violet/white wire that feeds the pump and the black ground wire and installed new wires bypassing the C100. Still no workee. Will dig into it again tomorrow after it stops raining........

must be getting senile, 88 MJ.

yes, a pin out f the firewall side...........

Has anyone seen a graphic or a drawing of the wiring coming in from the firewall to the fusebox? I have a wiring diagram but i'm looking for more of a connector type drawing.

When you start fooling around with the seats, notice that the cushions just unbolt from the frame, and the covers will just slip on and off like a glove. i hate to see guys spend extra money on foam and covers when the junkyards are full of almost new seats..........

Tiger beer? Is that like Singha or San Miguel?

before you go to the trouble of running new wires to the speakers, check them for continuity with an ohm meter. if you put the black lead on the speaker ground lead and tap the red lead on the speaker signal lead, you should hear the speaker pop. That tells you that the wires and the speakers are good.