65SSG

Right--how do I get it the rest of the way? From what I can tell, the harness feeds straight into the fusebox; there aren't any grouped connectors or anything. I'm guessing I have to disconnect every wire individually from the box after taking good notes/pictures for where they go? Sorry if that's a dumb question, I just don't want to pull all those wires if there's an easier way that I'm missing.

My clutch master went out last week, and of course it dumped brake fluid into/on my fusebox. What's the best way to get it cleaned up? I've seen some people reference removing it and cleaning it outside the truck, and some posts are saying to just do it in the truck. I've sprayed a bunch of electrical cleaner on it so far with it in the truck, but I don't feel like it's getting particularly clean, especially on the backside. Seems like the best way would be to take it out, but I can't tell how to do that--I've got the 2 gold Phillips screws loosened inside and the 1/4" bolt loosened on the engine-bay side of the connector, so it's loose but still attached by the wires. Would I have to take them out individually or...? I can't really tell for sure how everything is connected to the box itself and if it's easily removable or not. Thanks!

Sorry, been away on vacation. So am I missing a step in getting the shuttle valve to open the bypass line? It's just open one of the front bleed valves and step on the pedal, right? I've tried it on both calipers now and neither one turned the light on. I'm doing it with a hose to a bottle of brake fluid while trying it so it doesn't pull air back in, but I don't think that'd make a difference... And the light itself does work as it comes on with the parking brake and while cranking the engine. I guess if nothing else I'll do the bypass of the load sensing valve and just run one line to the rear. It'd be nice to be able to drive it again. Thanks.

Hey, I'm stuck on a brake issue. I just replaced all of the metal hard lines to the rear and the rubber line that goes to the axle--so both long front to rear lines off the front distribution block, lines for the load sensing valve, and the lines that actually go to the wheel cylinders. Now I can't get any pedal pressure--it pretty much goes straight to the floor, especially with the engine running. I can't find any leaks, I've bled them over and over for hours now with a combination of gravity bleeding and the standard one-person method (hose into a bottle with brake fluid in it etc.), there's fluid at all 4 corners, and no air bubbles coming up that I've seen. I tried the special procedure I found on here for bleeding the emergency line, though I'm not positive if the distribution block/combination valve switched over to the second line after opening a front bleeder or not since the brake light didn't come on. As best as I can tell, the lines are routed correctly. I have the nose line off the distribution block going to the side of the LSV and the front bottom bypass line going to a tee in the rear. The other two connections on the tee are to the top of the LSV and to the rubber hose. Seems to match what I've found in other posts here. If I spin a front wheel by hand and apply the brakes, the wheel will stop. If I do the same on the rear, it doesn't even slow down. That might be normal functionality for the load-sensing valve but I'm not sure. The only thing I can think of is that I need to try that special bleeding procedure again... otherwise, I'm at a loss. It's for the '88 in my signature. Am I missing anything obvious here? Thanks for any help!