tugalo

Had suspicions about my meter, so i went out this morning and tried again. Turns out my meter was joshing me....all is well now. I had 4.82V on the supply line. I set the output to .79v which is a little lower than 17% but my idle has smoothed out at around 750 rpm, never been that low..... Which brings up another question, instead of setting the voltage at 17% of supply, could you not just start the engine and rotate the TPS to get the desired idle RPM?

Hi guys, 88 MJ, 4.0, Ba-10, C101 bypassed I've been having trouble with the truck occassionaly going to 3000 rpm and staying there, usually i have to unplug and replug the IAC to correct it. I decided to try a new TPS to see if it made any difference. In the course of doing Cruiser's TPS adjust, i found I only have 4.32V on the 5V supply line. I removed the computer to check continuity on the 5V supply line at pin C15, and found i only had 1 ohm of resistance. I noticed that the line to the TPS was light blue at the computer, but was blue with a tracer at the TPS so i'm thinking there is a splice somewhere in the line that is intermittent. My questions: Is the low supply voltage a cause for concern? Does anyone know a better way or place to remount the computer?

i believe that the bottle i used was from a mid-90's Dodge, or maybe a Plymouth. It was mounted on the firewall in the same location as the original Jeep bottle. it has a different shape than the OEM bottle, but if you remove the OEM bottle and the bracket that it mounts to, you only have to drill 2 holes in the firewall for the screws that mount the Dodge bottle. The cap that goes on the Dodge bottle is a real live locking radiator cap instead of a screw on cap. If i remember, i had to do some finagaling to get the OEM hoses to fit the new bottle. I have been running the Dodge bottle for 6 or 7 years with no problems...... It is a very simple install. I like the heavy gauge nylon of the Dodge bottle, the locking radiator cap, and the fact that it also has an overflow hose....

Replaced my bottle with a really sturdy one from a mid-90's Mopar. Made of thick nylon and has a real radiator cap. has a slightly different shape than OEM bottle, but easily installs once you remove the OEM bottle and mounting bracket...

Might be worth a try to loosen the temp sensor and refill the system to ensure that you do not have air trapped in the head... my solution to the crappy bottle was to install one from a mid-90's Mopar. The Mopar bottle is made from HEAVY nylon, has a different shape, and a REAL radiator cap. You remove the original bottle, remove the bracket holding it, and mount the new bottle directly to the firewall in the original location.

i replaced mine with a mid 90's Mopar bottle. It has a different shape but a real radiator cap. All that is required is to remove 2 screws and the OEM bracket, drill 2 holes in the firewall and mount the new bottle directly to the firewall. Wrecking yard price was about 5 bucks....

An additional ground from battery to radiator bracket is a good idea, but you should still put in a heavy cable from the engine block to the firewall. Will improve your starting times and the brightness of your headlights. Don't forget to clean the attach points really well.......

has anyone figured nout a good way to remove brake fluid from the fuse block. I just replaced my master cylinder and got a little on the block.....

The flat braided ground strap that you think is jammed between the tranny bell housing and block should be attached to the firewall directly above the rear end of the engine. That is the main ground for the entire truck. You can leave the flat cable where it is for now go to your local auto parts store and buy the heaviest battery cable they have roughly two feet long. if you find one that is for use on a boat, it will have flat ring connectors on each end. clean away all paint and grease from the firewall and bolt and attach the cable. The other end needs to be grounded to the engine block. the factory install was on a stud down by the bottom of the oil dipstick, but there are other places you can attach it. While you are at it, many of the sensor grounds are attached to the stud at the bottom of the dipstick, they get loose and dirty, so clean them up and re-attach firmly.

The CPS should definitely bolt on solidly with special shoulder bolts. If you have power to all the fuses, it sounds like a ground problem to me. If power is available at the fuse, the circuit should work if it has a ground. Look under the dash in the vicinity of the emergency brake and you should see a ground wire bolted to the chassis. That is the ground for all the instrument panel. The flat braided ground wire should be bolted to the firewall about in the center of the engine bay. I replaced mine with a heavy gauge starter cable from O'reillys. Bad grounds are the most common problem in Comanches, along with the C101 connector. It might pay to separate the C101 and clean out all the tar, it's the big connector on the firewall just above and inboard of the clutch master cylinder.

plugged cat?

I know that most Comanche owners are pretty fair mechanics and do not like paying high prices for parts or for someone else's labor. Mr. Mike Rowland has posted an extremely well written article on how to do it yourself. Check out the link below and see how easy it is to do it on your own http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/DIYFuelInjectorCleaning.htm In the article he lists part numbers and sources, but there are other and cheaper places to buy them as kits.....

my key did the same. I finally got to a locksmith and he removed the cylinder and rebuilt it for $35. After watching him do it, i am not sure i would want to try it at home.

Easy to dye the xj seats any color you want...much cheaper than re-upholster

OP wanted to know how wide it was, not how long........

t If the previous post doesn't cure the problem, remove the radio and plug a 2 ft piece of wire into the antenna connection and try it. If it still doesn't work, the problem could be the pre-amps in the radio, but something in the antenna circuit is the most likely.

Be sure to post the problem and the fix when you fix it

you may have to separate the connectors from the fuse block, because they are filled with the same black tar that is in the c101 connector. the tar may be acting as an insulator on the inside between the connector blades and sockets....almost any solvent will clean it out......messy, messy

Sounds like the connector to the back of the fuse block has worked loose. Out on the firewall, remove the plastic dust covers and see if the bolt in the center of the two halves of the connector has backed off. Wiggling the connectors may temporarily bring power back to the fuse block. if so, you have found your problem.....

The engine side of the connector has 2 halves. Remove the 2 plastic dust covers and look down between the 2 halves. there you will find the center bolt as previously described. remove the bolt. One half of the connector is held captive by the other half, so you will have to play with them to dis-connect them from the engine side of the fuse panel. When you re-install, loosely attach the fuse block from the cab side . If you don't leave some slack in the mounting screws, you can't re-install the center bolt on the engine side..... If you figure out how to remove the pins and sockets from the fuse block, please post the info....

sorry, i read MAP instead of MAT, hornbrod got it right.....

pull the sensors and heat them with a heat gun or in the oven with a thermometer and then read the resistance. if it checks our fairly close to the given values, then the sensor is good and the problem is in the wiring. map resistance value changes with vacuum so put a vacuum on it and see that its resistance goes up and down with vacuum changes.....

Just a heads-up....88 MJ Pioneer While driving in city traffic, i depressed the clutch pedal to shift gears and heard a loud pop. Truck was locked in low gear and i could not shift it to neutral. Feared a transmission removal and slave cylinder replacement, but trouble shooting revealed that the spot welds that hold the shift rod bushing to the S bracket under the dash had sheared, so the clutch was not connected to anything.... Removed the bracket and bushing and rewelded, all is good, but the original factory spot welds were pretty shoddy....might be worth an inspection on your heep..

The outside connectors on the firewill are kind of a pain, but can be removed from the fuse box. Remove the dust covers from the two harnesses and then with a mirror, look between the two halves of the connector to find a bolt head. On mine it was a 9mm bolt. Remove the bolt and the connector bodies will then dis-engage from the firewall side of the fuse box. I forget which half of the connector comes off first, but one half is held captive by the other. this connector is almost identical to the c101 connector if you need to see an example. When you re-install, leave some slack in the mounting screws for the fuse block or you will not have room to re-attach the outside connector.

fuel injectors are Ford 4 holers, and the O2 sensor has been replaced with an aftermarket unit. i have the Peugout tranny and i run 235-74-15"s. Since I'm closing in on 72, i do drive like a grandpa....