mjeff87

then so ends my confusion....Pat and I were both thinking that the tranny was an older style that had been swapped in at some point, but obviously it's not. Thanks Pete! Now off to buy a flywheel......crap...... Jeff

well, this thing has a Centerforce bolted to it, which I may or may not reuse.... ;) Thanks for the input Eagle... Jeff

that's kinda what I thought, but....(there's always a but)....on Saturday, Pat (pingpong) and I pulled an AX15 from one of his parts rigs. The XJ was an HO 4.0L, but the tranny had an internal slave, which I thought ended at or around when the HO came out. The CPS on the tranny must be a Chryco because it has a two wire round pigtail on it, and I know the Renix CPS has a flat connector. Seemed to me that it was a Renix era tranny with a Chryco flywheel and CPS, bolted to an HO. I'm just trying to figure out if I can bolt it up as it came out to the 87 4.0 I have. Would save me from having to buy a new flywheel. Jeff

and if you look at the rotor tip, it is generously sized....I'd estimate there's about 10 degrees worth of timing across the length of it. Jeff

when you say the rotor is pointing at #1 when off, are you sure you are at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke? Bring the timing notch on the HB around to "0" on the scale and see where the rotor is pointing. Jeff

Renix vs. HO.... are the flywheels specific to the tranny or the engine? In other words, will a Renix era AX15 work behind an HO (and vica-versa), if you keep the flywheel and CPS the same? Jeff

you do not need to remove the oil pan nor the water pump to remove the timing chain cover on either the 2.5 or the 4.0 Like Eagle said, the chains are good, but the tensioner fails on the 2.5. Mine went bad around 150K (made a clacking sound that I drove with for another 20K miles with no performance issues). I opened it up around 170K and replaced the tensioner as well as the chain and sprockets while I had it all torn down. Jeff edit: here's the writeup I did so you can see what's all involved.... http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... ming+chain

when I swapped the full gauge cluster into mine I decided to clean it up real good...to the point of removing the clear plastic cover on the gauge pod and wiping the micro-dust off of the gauge faces. Well.....apparently the temp gauge needle was a bit loose on the pin and I "bumped" it over a bit to the hot side. When it ran, it was reading 220-230 deg, and I know my engine never ran hot, ever. I verified the temp with a laser temp gauge @ the sending unit location, which was right around 190-200, then just gently nudged the needle back on the cluster until it read the same. I ain't workin' with NASA componentry here..... :D Jeff

It looks just like the 96 one I swapped into my MJ, but verify the year like Don said just to make sure. You'll need to modify the end of the pushrod to accept the older style brake switch (carefully....if you take too much off like I did it won't work. I ended up swapping in the entire pedal assembly out of the XJ I pulled the booster/master out of and adapted the newer style contact switch). I also had to relocate my washer fluid resivoir too, and had a bunch of fun running new brake lines from the master output to the prop valve. Overall, it was a PITA swap for me (partly my fault because I ground off too much of the end of the pushrod), but it was probably one of the best mods I've ever done to my MJ. The extra braking force gained is well worth the trouble. Jeff

I'd clean the input with regular degreaser, lube the splines with regular grease. Not certain on the clutch and housing, but I would *@$$*ume they would be the same....check a parts house to see if the same clutch kit is listed for both vehicles. For the external slave, you're also going to need the fork and pivot ball, as well as a new front bearing retainer (part that the input shaft goes into inside the BH). The inside diameters of the throwout bearings differ between the internal and external one. Jeff

You can surely do it that way, but it's alot more work, especially trying to line up the LCA and trackbar bolts when you reassemble it all (especially by yourself). I like to work smarter, not harder :cheers: Heck, Pat and I dropped a complete D30 out of the junkyard last weekend in about 20 minutes flat.........with the help of a sawzall :D Jeff

for spacers, you shouldn't need compressors. Do like Pat says, and you can use a small bottle jack on the side that you are working on to press the axle down as far as it will go (and hold it there) while you slip the spring in and out. Put the jack inbetween the axletube and the "framerail" and jack away....it will push the axle down. Jeff

ayup, I do.....:D 'cept now since I figgered it out, I have two MEEP MEEP horns, with the same pitch. Just as ghey, just twice as loud.. :chillin: Jeff

:laughin: I'm a go for Saturday Pat.....I'll bring the waggy springs along. Jeff

good on 'em.......they were simply unstoppable this year. (hey, at least the Pens didn't get shut out :D ) Jeff

just like jaekl said..... become a regular, be respectful, and don't try to haggle with them every time you go there. Take wheelbarrows/carts back to where you got them from initially. Don't try to sneak stuff past them, and pretty soon, they'll start no-charging you for the small stuff when you show it to them. Jeff

NAPA....about $10 each Jeff

I'm easily bribed with a couple (dozen) cold beers....... :cheers: (p.s. the '30 was from an 89 XJ, not an '86, remember? the 86 had the 3.73's but was a disco.....) Jeff p.p.s.......you forgot your waggy springpacks, they're still in my backyard :thwak:

I always miss the minor details..... :D Jeff

If you're doing this solo, I'd recommend you pull the TC off the tranny first......it really throws off the COG once the tranny is free of the engine. For the CPS, you can leave it bolted to the tranny when removing (unless you want to skinny your arms up there and pull it), just disconnect the wiring harness first. Once the tranny is on the ground you can pull the sensor. Be safe! Jeff

Welcome to the club :cheers: Your MJ is a carbon copy of what mine looked like when I got it about 8 years ago.......now it's a bit different :brows: The possibilities are endless ;) Jeff Image Not Found

I've got a few of them and can't stand them. One's been hit by lightning, TWICE, and still won't die. They're waaaay too tall for me to try to mess with, and I don't have the $1000 each it would cost to have them cut down. I keep hoping (as long as they're still alive) that mother nature will "top" them for me during a good thunderstorm. If I can get them down to about 75 ft or so, I think I could take them out the rest of the way. We didn't have gum trees in PA ;)

you will soon learn what a gumball tree is....... and come to loathe them...... If you cut any trees at all, those should be the first ones to go ;) Jeff

ratio = 3.54 that "18" is actually a "13", and the "46 13" are the tooth counts of the ring and pinion gear. Divide the ring by the pinion, 46/13, and you get 3.54. Jeff

try typing in them here, and see..... www.comancheclub.com/forums :D Jeff