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Everything posted by mjeff87
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phillips head.....at least the ones that are still there :D Jeff
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Anyone know offhand what size (wrench size, not thread) the jam nuts are on RE adjustable control arms? Need to pick up a wrench on the way home and want to get the correct size. TIA, Jeff
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Time for a weekend wrench party with all your Jeep buddies in the driveway...... :brows: Jeff
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4.0 head bolts are TTY (torque to yeild), they can be reused one time. If you reuse them you're supposed to dot them on the tops with a mark to denote they're on their second tour of duty. Jeff
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Started working on the 4.0L I got from Pat this weekend. Image Not Found Pulled and painted the oil pan, and put new freeze plugs in it Image Not Found Pulled the head off and took it to the shop to hot-tank it and have the broken exhaust stud fixed. Should have it back tomorrow Image Not Found Image Not Found Installed a new RMS and a Felpro 1 piece pan gasket Image Not Found I’m reusing the headbolts (and will be painting the tops), so I cleaned them up on the bench grinder Image Not Found Image Not Found Started putting things back together. At this point, I have to wait for the head before I can assemble any more Image Not Found Installed an HO compressor bracket and mounted the compressor (for OBA) Image Not Found Where it sits now Image Not Found
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I like the added ride height.....I'm short. And yes, they are very comfortable. The real problem I have is the decreased space between the bottom of the steering wheel and the top of the seat. It's kind of an ordeal getting into mine with 6" of lift. I've got to sort of put half my butt on the seat, then slide my right leg under the wheel and pull the rest of me into the seat. That and for the first week or so after I swapped them in, I kept hitting my head off the top of the door frame getting out :oops: Eventually you learn to duck a bit... Jeff
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try finding a set of BLACK buckets, it's even worse. Took me over a year scouring 'yards until I finally found a set in a 4 door XJ. Even though they were rockers and non-folding I grabbed them and stashed them away until I could rework my MJ bench brackets and get them in. Yeah, the non-folding backs are a PITA and I still have to pull them back out to cut down the height on the brackets, but at least I finally got black buckets :D Haven't seen another set since, either...... Jeff Image Not Found
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X2.... I can help you swap a new TC into your rig for $100 (cost of a JY TC) and a 1/2 case of beer (my labor rate :D ) Jeff
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I thought that was your truck......sad to see it go :oops: but at least it went to a good home Wanderin, you shoulda stopped over on your roadtrip and said hi.....I'm about an hour away from where you picked up. Jeff
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www.carsinbarns.com :nuts: Jeff
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Greg.....it was my pleasure. Glad you had a good time :cheers: Got the underhood wiring harness and vacuum harness pulled out today: Image Not Found Image Not Found Buncha 2.5 stuff: Image Not Found The workshop: Image Not Found
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Good weekend…..Greg came down and spent the night, and we got some serious wrenching done (and drank an assload of beers, feasted on some smoked pork shoulder, corn on the cob, and sliced tomatoes). We got the MT springpacks swapped into his MJ, along with a set of V8 ZJ coils and 1-3/4” spacers: Image Not Found Image Not Found And we got the driveline on my MJ pulled :D Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found
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:cheers: nothing more to add than what's already been discussed...... all of us on here are screwed up in our own little ways, but in a good way Jeff
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yeah Don....it is like working inside a soda can. The adjoining unit is my neighbor's and he's got a few fans in there I'm gonna "borrow" if it gets too bad, but it's actually supposed to cool off here this weekend to the low 80's We'll swill down a few High Life's in your honor, too ;)
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Couple shots of the work area: Image Not Found AX15 and 231: Image Not Found 4.0 in process of being rebuilt: Image Not Found All the rest of the crap that needs to be swapped in: Image Not Found
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there will be plenty of pics, rest assured......I'll post a few up in the morning of the host facility. Kind of a before-and-after thing, it's all so clean and shiny now. No telling what it'll look like in a month or so :D I've already started the "empty Bud Light Can" memorial, too. Good thing there's a dumpster nearby. Jeff
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The ones I go to cost $1 to get in. That $1 goes into an insurance account that they maintain in case someone gets injured. Ask me how I know.......I accidentally dropped a transmission on my hand while trying to remove it by myself one day. I was walking out with one sore hand (and the tranny) and casually mentioned my stupidity to the cashier. They MADE me fill out a bunch of paperwork and sent me to the ER for x-rays and evaluation.....on their dime, not mine. Thankfully, no worse than a bunch of swelling and a bit of blood (I had gloves on luckily). Jeff
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If anyone's around this weekend and wants to wrench a bit, or just come hang out and drink beer, project 4.0 swap is getting underway. Also, WahooSteeler is (hopefully) coming down with his MJ to do some work on. I bit the bullet and finally rented a 20X30 storage facility for the next couple months I might toss a pork shoulder on the grill/smoker early AM for dinner, and pick up some local corn too. Jeff
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Yeah, you don't HAVE to drop the driveshaft, but doing so gives you alot more room to fiddle, especially when trying to reinstall the unit. And because the metal lines tend to crack where they enter the unit, I prefer to disconnect the soft lines up toward the front of the bed where they reattach to the hard lines versus trying to pull them directly off the sender (if you plan on working on the unit on the bench). Some models of replacement pumps now contain a flat ring instead of the rounded-type OEM one. They are a bit more of a pain to keep centered than the old style, but do work. When reinstalling the lock ring, make sure all three metal tabs are engaged under the "ears" on the tank before you start tapping the ring to tighten. Those lock rings are pretty thin, and can bend easily. Jeff
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my pump howled for about 3 years, then one day I started it up, it ran for about 3 seconds and then died. Had to put it in 1st gear and crawl it with the starter for about 100 ft to get it to a safe place to work on it. Moral of the story......replace pump. Jeff
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yeah, like I said, it's a good price for what it is. I have a HF gun, not sure what model it is but it was cheap.....I've used it for some light/medium duty stuff and the impact mechanism is getting sloppy. For what I paid for it it's not worth trying to refurbish. I figure the Craftsman model will get a bit longer life. Jeff
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Caught this on NAXJA, passing along for anyone interested. Today only sale on a Craftsman 1/2" air impact gun, 340 lb/ft torque. If you follow the link and add it to your basket it still shows as full price when you first add it, but if you view your cart, you get a $16 discount added. I ordered it online earlier today at work and picked it up in-store on the way home (saved shipping costs that way :D ) Pretty good deal for $20...... http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 0383&aff=Y ^^click me^^ Jeff
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That would be the compressor pumping down almost into a vaccuum and being shut off by the low pressure safety switch. I just replaced mine about 3 months ago, which had been doing that for the last 3 years. Jeff
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Here's a writeup with a couple of pics of when I replaced the timing chain on my 2.5......which involves pulling the HB. Considering there's a lot less clearance between the front of the engine and the radiator on a 4.0 vs. a 2.5, I'd recommend you pull the rad like I did. I didn't "have to", but I did just to be safe.....I'd think with a 4.0 you'd almost have to pull it to install the puller. HTH, Jeff http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... ming+chain
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exhaust outlet stud replacement
mjeff87 replied to rverjeeper's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
bang out the old ones with big hammer, and install the new studs with same hammer and a drift.....I just replaced a set on a Renix manifold recently (but the manifold is on the bench, not still in the vehicle). Pricey little suckers those studs are....mine were $5 and some change from the dealership, EACH (and just the studs, no nuts or washers either). Jeff
