mjeff87

If you pull/hoist the engine from the side, you won't be able to roll the truck back....the legs on the hoist will be in the way. Or are you thinking something else? Just trying to save you from one of those "oh #$(&@%^" moments, we've all been there..... ;) Jeff

first mod was replacing the crapped out factory shift knob with a pool cue ball, then wheels/tires, then a 4WD conversion :D Jeff

"you know that's bootleggin' boy......and that's illegal" :D Jeff

almost the same part # too.... CTS - 3300 2383 (dealership) TS82451 (aftermarket, Neihoff, $22.99) MAT - 3300 2382 (dealership) TS81351 (aftermarket, Neihoff, $35.99) Careful if you try to swap the MAT, I snapped mine off clean with the manifold surface. I ended up pulling the guts out of it (luckily they didn't fall into the intake) then used a small fluted extractor to back out the threaded part stuck in the manifold. What I expected to be a 10 minute replacement turned into an all-afternoon affair :headpop: My CTS is still original, and I have to assume it's still working. Jeff

you probably have a big air pocket in the circuit now. Is this an internal slave, and if so, did you leave the little plastic bands attached to it when you put it in? If you did, you should have heard/felt them "pop" at some point in the process. I'd try the standard bleeding process as Brent mentioned (you'll probably displace about 2X the MC volume of fluid to fill the slave until all the air is out. You might also try gravity bleeding (open the bleeder and pop the cap on the MC, and keep an eye on the fluid level). Jeff

*sniff* *sniff* That's what my MJ looked like when I first got it (minus the huge azz sign in the bed, but the PO was an old man who made his own "tonneau" cover out of 2X4 and blue poly tarping). Brings back sweet memories....I wish I would have taken a pic or two of it way back then. ;) Jeff

edit: here's the writeup I did on it.....HTH :cheers: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3432

Tom, The one on the top of the manifold is the MAT sensor, has nothing to do with temp. The one in the side is what feeds info to the ECU. The sensor in the back of the head only sends signal to the gauge (or idiot light) in the cluster. :cheers: Jeff

yes, they are the exact same skid....but there are differences between a 231 and a 242 skid. They both bolt in the same, but the 242 is bent a tad differently, to accomodate the larger case. You can use a 242 skid under a 231 no problem (it'll just hang a bit lower), but you may have issues trying to use a 231 skid under a 242. I did a writeup when I installed the skid on mine, I'll see if I can find it and post the link. If yours didn't come with a skid initially, the holes for the mounting bolts will be there on the tranny Xmember and the framerail, but the nutserts won't be installed. You can use a self-tapper on the framerail and conjure up something for the tranny crossmemeber bolts if you want. I opted to swap crossmembers and installed a nutsert in the framerail when I did mine. Jeff

they're T-55 if I remember correctly. Jeff

:roll:

positive...negative....I get confused every time I think about it (too much fruit in the beer will do that to ya, you know 8)?) Mine's rotated in the same direction as yours is, just not as much :D Isn't the factory spec something like 7-8 degrees? You're just about spot on, CW. Jeff

^^^yup, what he said^^^ ;) Jeff

I shoulda mentioned that I readjusted the caster with longer fixed lowers and adjustable UCA's. When I first lifted it, I only used the fixed lowers with stock UCA's and had to remove the front DS due to horrible pinion angle. Adjustable uppers solved that problem, but I had to dial in the best length......it's a delicate balance between pinion angle and caster (which can only really be solved completely by rotating the knuckles). I ended up at around 4.5-5 degrees negative caster, and the driveshaft doesn't bind. Steering feel is a bit "vague" with the little caster, but it's livable. The only issue I have now is a small camber issue due to the axle tube being rotated more forward than stock. I'm considering offset balljoints. Jeff

Dayum man....I remember that MJ in your garage when you first got it, smashed roof and all. You've really come a long way with it :cheers: Jeff

I'm rebuilding the engine on a stand at the moment......it's all clean ;) I don't even have the manifolds on the block right now, and want to pop the injectors and fuel rail on while it's on the bench. When I drop it in, all I want to have to do is plug up the harness and fuel lines. Jeff

ayup....thanks :cheers: Jeff

I need new injector o-rings for my 4.0 build. Does anyone sell a whole kit, or do I have to buy them individually (at like $1.50 per injector :nuts: ) Jeff

X2 on checking toe. I had basically the same issue with mine, and finally got the tape measure out. I was toed in an extra inch :oops: Reset it to 1/2" and not a wiggle since.... Jeff

Wear good eye protection, regardless of what you use :cheers: The flares are held on by metal strips sandwiched between them and the fender (with studs that go thru the fender). If you cut with the flares still attached, you'll feel the metal strips when you get to them. Just keep everything level and take your time. Jeff

Jerry and used a sawzall (18 or 24 TPI bi-metal blade, I can't remember right now) and cleaned up the roughness with a flap disc.....took about 10 minutes, and 8 of that was trying to draw a straight line on the fender to cut by ;) We cut a bit low of the line, then finished up to it with the flapper. One tip, if you do use a flap disc, it will heat up the flare and melt it if you leave it in one place too long. Jeff Image Not Found Image Not Found

I've got a bunch of Comanche emblems, plus a set of "4X4" ones, if you can't find any. Hit me backchannel and we can figure something out (like give me your mailing address and you can have them..... ;) ) Every time I see an MJ in the 'yards, I pull them off, if they are still there. Jeff

If you ever get down to the Hampton area, check out Harpoon Larry's. It's a pretty "unique" place :brows: Couldn't tell ya where it is, 'cause I was drunk when I was thrown into a car and taken there one night, but it's behind the convention center, somewhere.... Jeff

Actually, I read somewhere (on the interweb, so it must be true :D ) that the "40" stands for the 40th formulation of the product. Guess the first 39 tries weren't any good..... Jeff

Well, the critter is in it's new home. I present to ya all.... Little Willie ;) Image Not Found