mjeff87

'bout damn time you made it over here E.... :cheers: Like I said on RJ, if ya wanna do the 4.0 and 4WD swap I'll give you a hand. You bring the beers and we can knock it out over a weekend :brows: Jeff

I've got one that I was holding for another member but he hasn't gotten back to me in quite a while about it. It doesn't come with the ECU, though, just the harness. Shoot me a PM if interested. Jeff

I have a real nice MJ D35, 4.56 ratio for sale at the moment in the classifieds......we can get 35's on it for you with that :brows: :brows: Jeff

....and compression Is the cam sensor hooked up? You say you don't know what happened to it before you bought it, did it run then? Jeff

It all bolts straight in. For the radiator, you need to remove the 2.5 brackets from the header, and it fits right in. The two bottom holes are already there for the isolators on the bottom, too. You'll need the engine mount frame brackets (they're bolted to the framerails) and you'll need the motor mounts. 2.5 and 4.0 mounts look very similar, but they're different. Not one bit of sheetmetal work required. Jeff

Greg, The cable runs thru a small hole in a support bracket that's welded to the floorpan (you'll see what I mean when you go to take your old one out). Make sure that you run the pedal end back thru that hole and up to the pedal before you reattach the new one. It'll still work if you forget to route it back thru the floor, but you'll have a hard time getting the trim piece back over the rocker area if it's resting on top of the bracket as opposed to thru the hole. If you want to see what it looks like and how it sits if you forget, just come take a look at mine........ :dunce: (I'm not running any carpeting/cargo mat though, so it's not a big deal for me) Jeff

you need to either cut yours or use the tranny-hump cover plate from an AX15 equipped vehicle (they're cut differently). Also, the tranny crossmember is slightly different for an AX15 versus an AX5/AW4/BA10/5...it's got a 1" divet in the center where the mount sits. I tried to reuse my AX5 crossmember, but couldn't get the TC linkage to line up and it put the exhaust/cat right against the floorboard. If yours is 4WD, you'll also need two specific pieces of the TC linkage assembly...the part that bolts to the inside of the tranny tunnel and the shift rod that connects the range lever on the case to the linkage. They are AX15 specific. Jeff

not calling your abilities into question, but I just swapped a 4.0 into my neighbor's YJ over a weekend (and had a few screwups along the way 'cause I used an XJ engine with minor differences). I agree with previous posts that you swap engines for now, and don't let your mind make hasty decisions. Heck, I wish I were closer, I'd help ya do it :cheers: You should hold a wrenchfest at your place for the local CC members......like Paul said, engines are cheap (down our way anyhow) out of the 'yard and would be the quickest fix to your problem. 'git-er-dun! Jeff

Had a similar situation with my TJ a few months ago....evap circuit small leak and evap circuit large leak. Kept flashing off for about 2-3 weeks, annoying as all get out. Then it suddenly self-corrected and hasn't come back, yet. I'm sure it will, probably right at inspection time.... :dunno: Jeff

I was gonna mention that the bearing rides inside the bushing...I had similar issues when I swapped an AX15 into mine. Glad you got it figured out. Jeff

definately sounds like the rear seal on the clutch master is leaking then. Look under the dash, up above the fuseblock and you'll see the rod coming out of the back of the master connected to the pedal. Look for leakage where the rod enters the rubber bellows, I bet you'll find it's dripping. Needs to be fixed ASAP, as all that fluid is dripping down onto your fuseblock and slowly eating it and your fuses alive. Jeff

our oldest cat was my wife's pet long before we ever met. She made it to 21 and just flat out ran out of gas and we had to put her down a couple years ago. She now rests in an urn on the headboard of our bed. It was the most sorrowful thing I've ever experienced, and I empathize with you and your family but you did what was best for your friend. It takes awhile but it does get better, then eventually you start to remember very fondly the sweet and funny moments you all shared together. Peace. Jeff

Welcome to the club Jess, it's always great to see new faces keeping another MJ on the road :cheers: I'll leave the shock question to the other guys on here running stock setups, but I and many others have swapped XJ buckets into our MJ's. Yes, you can reuse your bench brackets with them (XJ seats up to '96, I think that's the cutoff year but am not 100% on that). Four bolts hold the seat to the bracket/slider, and the slider is spot-welded and bolted to the floor brackets. Remove the seat from the slider and the slider from the floor bracket on both then bolt/weld the XJ slider to the MJ floor pedestal/bracket and bolt on the bucket. Couple words of caution, 4-door XJ buckets do not have any tilt mechanism for the seat back, so if you use them you will have difficulty accessing things behind the seats in the cab (actually it's a real PITA, ask me how I know ;) ). Also, if you use XJ buckets with the curved rocker bases (again, like I did) they will sit a good bit higher in the cab unless you cut the pedestals down some. That can be a problem if you are taller than average as some guys' heads end up on the ceiling. Not an issue for me 'cause I'm short, but you do have to get used to ducking your head when getting in/out to avoid beaning yourself on the doorframe. You only do that a couple times until you learn, though :yes: There's a couple good writeups on here you can search for, or hopefully the authors will chime in with some links to them. Check the projects/buildup section for them. Jeff

WTH???? :roll:

good to hear you're ok, and the MJ is too. A few years ago my MJ and a ZJ bumped nasties on the interstate in a "weave" lane.....ZJ cost $1700 to fix. I reattached the breakaway mirror on my driveside and used a kitchen plunger to pop the dent out of the driverside door and went on my merry way :D Jeff

the manifold is good (from what I can tell), it's just the stud that's sheared off. Same thing happened on my MJ when it had the 2.5 (both front and rears broke off). I was able to get the front one out and replace it w/o pulling the head on it, but the back on I couldn't. I just torqued the other bolts down and ran some JB weld around the rear exhaust port and ran it, thanks to the gasket. If the estimate would have come in around $200 or less, I was seriously gonna think about letting them do the work just to save the time and the hassle right now. It took all I had to maintain my composure when they told me what it was.

Awhile ago, the rear exhaust stud sheared off the head on my 2.5 TJ. The brainiac Jeep engineers decided that these model year 2.5 don't use a manifold gasket for some ridiculous reason, so I've just been driving it around with a loud exhaust tap/leak until the manifold heats up and the surfaces seal. Was planning on repairing it myself once we got into the new house with the garage (pull the head, clean the top end all up, have a shop drill the stud remains and retap, etc....) but today was driving past the dealership and thought I'd stop by to get a rough estimate on repair....you know, just for shiats and giggles. IF they DON'T have to pull the head and can drill it out with success........$440. I didn't even bother to ask them the cost if they had to pull the head. Guess this will be the first official repair done in the new garage :yes: Jeff

It's got the same threads as the smaller one. I just pulled it off the manifold from the XJ that I got the valve cover from in the junkyard.

From now on, you can all refer to me as butt ranger :waving: Jeff (aka mjeff87) p.s. it's all fun and games, but I just spent half the day at a level 4 security correctional facility here in VA (as a guest, not an inhabitant......) What's scarier is the women's prisons here. Let's just say, I don't care how big/bad ya think you are.....there are females that ARE bigger, and badder.

use your dremel, or a cutoff wheel or grinding disc on an angle grinder, and take the entire bolt head off down to the surface of the backside of the yoke. Then you can pull the shank of the bolt thru the yoke and deal with getting it out of the cardan later. The threads are in the cardan joint, not the yoke. Jeff

no, not quite that big (although they have models in that range, to up over 3000 ft/sq). Ours comes in right at about 2000.....which is plenty of house for me and the missus, plus the three gatos. It's about 450 more than our current house, plus the garage. Did I mention the garage? Oh yeah, there's the garage too..... :chillin:

garage floor got poured yesterday afternoon Image Not Found

as if your gout wasn't bad enough..... one of the only bodily pains as or more debiltating than that is kidney stones. Sheeeeesh. Don't worry about the board, take care of yourselves for now. :thumbsup: Jeff

you know Wade....now that I'm looking at the pics a bit more closely, I think I agree with ya. I don't see a CAD on the passenger side, and if you look at the profile shot from underneath of the rear axle and look at the relationship of the driverside front tire to the rock/nerf rails, it seems like the WMS is pretty wide (plus the aftermarket barbed vent fitting on the front diff), I'd say it's a widetrack D44 from a FSJ. Dakal....what's the bolt pattern on those axles? Jeff

jeepcoma, see the posting rules for this forum......there's no such thing as a "newbie" question ;) HP stands for High Pinion, refering to the relationship of the pinion gear to the ring gear inside the diff housing. All Jeep D30's were/are HP except for 2000-2001 XJ's and TJ axles, which are low pinion. Meaning, the pinion engages the ring gear below the centerline of the axle. Strength-wise, the difference is nominal at most (I won't get into that discussion here, yet), but the LP axles have a worse driveshaft pinion angle, which is less conducive to angles associated with lifting said vehicles. All said, HP axles are better. You can easily spot the difference between LP versus HP by looking at the housing and seeing where the pinion is cast, but in the pic above you can see by the location of the fill plug on the front that it's HP. It's higher than the LP fill plug (because more lube is needed in the HP models so that the pinion bearing gets lubed). Jeff edit: I've got a LP D30 in my TJ and a HP D30 in my MJ, I'll snap a couple pics in the morning when it's light out and post them so you can see the physical differences