mjeff87

Aaron....nice job so far :cheers: and welcome to CC Jeff

meh...along with a new carrier and gear setup, not really interested in it right now. I'm already running a 44 (which my buddy pointed out looks tiny inbetween 35" MT's ;) ) Just passing it on in case anyone wants to come get it. They charge $99 if they ring it up as a "4WD rear axle" but only $39 if they ring it up as a "2WD rear axle". Unless you pull a D60 or larger, or the axle has a huge WMS, they generally think it's a car axle and charge you less (D35, 44, 8.25, 8.8, etc.) Either way, it's a good deal if someone's looking... Jeff

There's a 4.10 8.25 sitting under a 95 XJ at my junkyard right now, in case anyone's interested in it...... (if it were a 29 spline, I would already own it :D ) Jeff

kinda hillbilly-ish, but I'm using large eyebolts with fender washers at each corner on top of the bedrails. Cheap, yes.....attractive, no. But I do use my MJ as the truck it was built to be sometimes, and nothing about it is attractive anyway :D Jeff edit: not the best pic, but this is what I'm talking about. Image Not Found

Geez Joe...I didn't mean to create such a mess for ya :ack: Jeff

My wife and I just bought a chest freezer from Sam's last weekend, and as we were waiting for them to bring one out of the warehouse (almost an hour.....I won't even get into that story :fs1: ) we were browsing the scratch-and-dent section. They had 4 Visio 42" plasmas there, three were damaged and one was just like your monitor....no cabling or remotes, for $700 and some change. We didn't buy it, but thought long and darn hard about it. We may go back down and look at what they have available after we close on the new house. Jeff

there's a couple of screws behind the HVAC vents on both sides that you have to pop the vents to get at. Also, there are (IIRC) 4 screws/bolts at the very front right where the winshield meets the body that can be a pain to get at. Once you get all the fasteners out, roll the dash assembly forward carefully and you can reach behind it (you can use a small mirror to see if you can't pull it far enough to get your head behind it) and unclip the wiring harness for the radio, cig lighter and HVAC. You'll probably snap off a couple of clips, too :yes: Jeff edit: and the HVAC tubes that attach to the outer vents are a pain to get off of the vent assemblies.

We own an '01 Legacy (was her grandmother's car and she inherited it when she passed away a couple years ago). Even though it's an '01, I'm flat out impressed with it, and I wouldn't hesitate buying another Subaru. (her mom drives an Outback, it's kinda fun to drive too). We don't have Canuck snow down here, but we did have a freak snowstorm this past winter and got about a foot dumped on us one evening (her birthday and I took her out to eat).....that car drove like a dream. I've never driven an AWD before and it took a little bit of getting used to the transaxle "kicking in" when needed, but that thing was a tank, on highway radials to boot. Any time we travel, we take her car (the TJ is too bouncy and you can't carry much in it, and the MJ is just, well......it doesn't do roadtrips anymore :D ). That thing is sooo comfortable, quiet, and very zippy, and it sips gas... The only downfall I've come across is trying to work on the engine. Oil changes are very easy, but I attempted to put plugs in it at 50K miles and failed miserably :roll: It's a horizontally opposed 4 banger, and the plugs are recessed into the heads. I screwed around for about a half hour just trying to get a plug socket on the first plug (after taking out the washer resivoir and some other crap) and gave up. Told her to take the new plugs to the dealer and have them put them in, which she did. I vote Subaru.....I can only imagine how much more refined the newer models are from what we're driving now (and we love her 01) Jeff

X2 on what comanchedude said.....interior harness is plug and play so long as you stay Renix, but you'll need the underhood harness and ECU from a 4.0L. XJ/MJ harness is the same (but if you do an inteior harness swap, they are slightly different). Try to use a later model underhood harness to eliminate the craptastic C100 connector on the firewall. Jeff

meh...I set my new perches parallel to the old SUA ones, works fine. Unless you're planning to run an SYE with a DC rear shaft, pinion angle in relation to the TC output remains the same.....the angles increase, but in proportion to each other (and you need a longer driveshaft) Jeff

one just opened up down in Newport News...haven't been there yet.....yet.

I was browsing the Novak website the other day trying to get some info on a couple different transmissions, and I read their tech page for the AW4. On it they said that they've heard that some 2.5 equipped Jeeps could be had with an AW4 but that they'd never seen one to confirm. So I sent some info to them a couple days ago, and got this response: Hi Jeff, I really like it when a reader will write in with information like this. It is one of the things that helps make our site run and grow. This is very much appreciated. Ok. Note the new page, with your information on it. If you find any revisions we should make, let me know. I hope you won't object to us crediting you for this info. If so, just say the word. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/aw4.htm Thanks, Jeff. Eric at Novak I don't want/need the credit, but that was a really nice start to my day ;) Jeff

I'm betting on the relay.....all that current passing thru the load side contacts, you probably melted it together. Try pulling the starter relay out and swapping in one of the other ones (fuel pump, latch realy, or A/C if yours is so equipped). That'll at least let you know if the relay is fried or not. Or you can pull the relay and check for continuity between the two legs on the load side (there shouldn't be any). Can't remember what the numbers are (Hornbrod would know for sure :yes: ), but I'm thinking it's 85 and 87 as a SWAG. Look under the relay connector to see where the two larger gauge wires connect....those are the ones. Jeff

roger that....no worries :cheers: Jeff

Pete, Did Qui ever figure out if phbpp is capable of pasting the new message text into the e-mail notification? That sure would be schweet.... Jeff

We won't hold that against you........ ;) :D Jeff

Yes! that's the one I was talking about (just couldn't remember where it was at). Thanks for the pics Brent....brings back fond memories of cold beer and flaming @zzholes the next day :cheers: Glad you enjoyed it. If you or Tina had any atomics, you better start eating ice cream now... Jeff

they should all be the same (27 spline), but you can always drop the driveshaft and count them. Better yet, drop the shaft and take the slip yoke (or the whole thing even) with you when you go to look at the new unit. If the slip yoke slides onto the splines, you know they are the same. Jeff

formerly known as HiTech retreading.....good stuff for cheap. You'll probably hear both pros and cons on 'treads, I'm on the pro side. I ran the piss out of many sets of them and never had a problem. Jeff

I've got a virtually brand new rubber floor mat I'd gladly sell you for half of whatever JC Whitless charges.....problem is the shipping. PM me if you're interested and have any creative ideas on how to get it from me to you.... Jeff

that's one of them decks you don't stumble out onto in the middle of the night drunk to take a leak from...... Jeff

'Tis true.....I'm running an HO pump on my Renix. Everything lined up except I had to fabricate a little spacer for one of the bolts that go into the face of the intake manifold. But, you're running a 2.5L and yours is a bit different than a 4.0 setup. 2.5's have the fluid resivoir remotely mounted to the fan shroud, not as part of the pump assembly like 4.0's. IIRC the pump itself is the same, so you may be able to use a 4.0 pump but you'll need the remote resivoir and the hoses from a 2.5, unless there's enough space to mount the whole assembly on the front of the engine. I never held one up there when mine was still a 2.5 to see if it would work. Hmmmm...... Jeff

Call Arnold Slick from Turtle Crick, and Scratch my back with a Hacksaw......them Pens are gonna take the cup! Jeff

jump the compressor briefly (disco the + wire and touch it to the battery post, may spark a tad) to see if the clutch engages. If it does, you know the comp and clutch are good and can troubleshoot from there (relay, low pressure switch, etc.). Start with the engine off and see if the clutch engages...if it does then try it running to see if the compressor spins. You really can't check the low or high side system pressures without the compressor engaged. Static pressures don't mean much.... Jeff

Don't use a cheap pot-metal one from Harbor Freight.......it will snap clean in half. Ask me how I know :oops: Jeff