mjeff87

I'll say one thing about the axle housing and tubes......that darn 8.25 is a whole lot heavier than a '35 (and a '44 for that matter). Working by myself at the junkyard, it was a whole lot harder loading that thing into the wheelbarrow and then into the bed of the MJ than any 35 or 44 I've ever pulled alone..... Jeff

are the bolts snapped off inside the nuts? is there any of the bolt shank still sticking out of the framerail? If yes, a few good whacks with a deadblow ought to break the welds off the nuts. I know there's not alot of swing-room there with the bottom of the bed section so close to the framerail. I had to use a right angle drill on a couple of mine. Drilled thru the nut and the opposite side of the framerail and then ran a long bolt the whole way through with washers and nuts. If you take the bumper off you can look thru the ends of the framerails and see the nuts, but they're too far back in the frame to get on them with anything (that I can think of anyway....) Good luck. Jeff

Boilermaker, I hope you get your stuff. I've been following this post since the start, seeing how things pan out. Looks like things might finally work out for you :cheers: Some of you guys on here have bought some stuff from me before and can vouch for this, but this is the way I operate (and knock on wood, I haven't gotten pinched yet): 1. we agree on a price, method of payment, and wether shipping is included or extra 2. I send a couple pics of the item to the buyer to review to make sure it's what's expected and how I described it 3. if good on #2, I ship the item to the buyer 4. once received, I ask the buyer to confirm the part will work/function as desired and it is in the condition described 5. if yes to #4, buyer then sends me payment. If no to #4, buyer return ships the item to me at their expense and we both go along with our lives I know that process leaves me open to a bit of deceipt, but like I said so far everyone I've dealt with (on here and on other boards too) has been good. Might I get screwed somewhere down the line? maybe, but I'm just as choosey a seller as I am a buyer. If something smells even remotely fishy, I'll keep my stuff. Call me old fashioned ;) What 87mjdriver posted is a bit disheartening..... YMMV Jeff

I grabbed that axle yesterday, and tore it down this morning. It was actually a 96 XJ and I got a bit hopeful that it would be a 29 spine, but it's not. I'm gonna hit the yard again this weekend coming up and pull a carrier and shafts from a late model XJ and see if the spiders fit the carrier and if the bearings fit the shafts. I'll let y'all know what I find out..... Jeff

blah.....

actually it wasn't the fuse that caused the problem with the brake lights, it was a splice I made last year to the brake light switch. I was messing around up under the dash yesterday, and I guess I must have pulled the wiring and loosened the connector :oops: Funny thing is, all of those things that used to be called fuses^^^ were still working when I pulled them (or pieces thereof).

hey...I just said it was gonna be a good second period......I didn't say for what team :eek: :fs1: Jeff

remember the second period of game #4 :yes: Jeff

Driving back from the junkyard today, a guy in a car behind me pulls up and tells me I have no brake lights, so I drive the rest of the way toggling the parking lights when I stop so noone rearends me. Troubleshoot at home and fixed it (turned out to be a loose wire on the brake light switch I swapped in when I did the dual diaprahm booster upgrade last year) but in the process I pulled the 5A instrument light fuse to check it and it crumbled in my fingers. Started pulling the rest of them, same thing. I had a leaking clutch master a couple of years ago, and doused the entire fuseblock with electrical cleaner which cleaned the block ok, but I guess the fuses were a delayed reaction. Moral of the story, check your clutch master! Jeff Image Not Found

well, I'm in the parts gathering process to build a non-disco with 4.56's and a locker to replace the 200K+ disco open one I'm running now. I figure while I'm still working on it on the bench I might as well truss it a bit. I agree on the disposable part, if it was an open carrier and stock ratio, though. Thanks for the pic Wade. Jeff

because as the ratio gets deeper, the pinion gear gets smaller. Like Genovast said, that increases the space between it and the ring gear. The carrier is thicker to make up the distance and gain proper gear face engagement. Some axles have "thick cut" gears available for them, and you can use the original carrier (the thickness of the ring gear makes up the difference) Jeff

congrats.....I'll have a beer or ten after work in celebration for ya :chillin: Jeff

Who's running any kind of upper truss on the long side of a non-disco D30? Bought, homebrew, whatever......I'm looking for some design pics. Please post up if you have any. Thanks, Jeff

don't need straps JT, but if you want to bring handtruck(s) they would be helpful. We've got a crap-ton of boxes we can use them to move. Already have an appliance dolly for the fridge, and that's the only appliance that needs moving (all the other ones are already installed new ;) ). The other stuff that needs moved is the usual, living room/bedroom furniture and clothing, and a glass dining room table that we'll move first before we start drinking for obvious reasons :yes: The one monster that does need moved, and it's gonna take 3-4 guys, is a huge console flat screen TV and the stand it sits on. There's a couple big gallouts coming that I'm gonna sic on them. I also have a smaller flat screen console TV down at the storage shed (with all my Jeep crap) that a couple of us will need to ride down and bring up to the new house. It's a 2-person TV, but I want to put it upstairs in the bonus room......that may be a bit fun. Jeff

as much as I hate to say it, and I do mean this with all due respect to Detroit as an original hockey town.......their fan base is waining :( Not like D-town or any other city in the rust belt needs another kick in the crotch right now, but I think we have the momentum swing. Regardless of who you root for, whether they're playing right now or not, you gotta admit this final series is some of the BEST hockey being played in the last 10+ years. Whoever wins it will certainly deserve it. :cheers: Oh, and VERSUS coverage...........sucks. I want my Mike Lange on audio simulcast over the interwebz, so I can listen to the games in true fashion (you 'burghers understand :chillin: ) That is all. Jeff

still on-line for the weekend of the 20th.... got a few "issues" I'm working thru with the builder, the mortgage company, and the landscape subcontractor, but I'm fairly confident they'll see things my way, eventually ;)

series even now. It's a best-of-three :nanner: Jeff

well, I never did look to see exactly what all fuses and relays were still plugged into the fuseblock before I sent it to ya LOL..... sounds like that would be yer problem right there :yes: Jeff

It's runnin', right? That's a good start :yes: Like I said, whoever the PO was on the donor vehicle I pulled the harness out of in the junkyard had an aftermarket (Viper) alarm system boogered into the cab harness. I un-spliced it all back out and tried to pair up the original connections by wire color. There were 3 splices, mostly all large gauge (high draw circuit) ignition wiring. Jeff

I can't speak from experience, but I was under the impression that you needed a 29 spine carrier to swap the shafts....maybe bearings as well (the 29 shafts have a slightly larger OD). I might just go snag that axle anyway, just to have. Then I can play around with it and see what works and what doesn't. You could just put a full case locker in it and call it good, too :yes: Jeff

If he is, that's about all you need to get some satisfaction..... :ack: Jeff

no, unfortunately after looking, that's not it. I was thinking of when I pulled my 2.5 harness out for the 4.0 swap.... So, like Rich said, check the relay box on the fuseblock and also the delay module. You can pull the module out of the wiring and connect the two pieces of wiring together directly. If they work then, you know the module is bad. It velcro-ed to the bottom of the steering column, black rectangular box with two ribbon-wire connectors on it, one on each side. Jeff

is that the harness I sent you? If so, something in my memory is telling me that I cut the wire connector for the wiper motor from the inside, past the connector, to get the engine harness out (figured out later that I didn't have to do that :doh: ) IIRC it was only two wires, black and white, that pass thru a seperate grommet in the firewall....lemme go out and look at my rig and see if I can't take a pic of the wires for you. You should only have to spice them back into the engine harness and it should work....I think. Sorry 'bout that :oops: Back in a minute........... Jeff

yes, you have to swap the entire underhood harness, from the bulkhead connector thru the header panel (you can leave the headlight subharness, just disconnect it) and back to the ECU. The whole mess seperates into two pieces around the relay center via a bunch of connectors. To get the first section of harness out (the one that goes thru the header panel), disconnect everything at the relay center and pull the short section of harness back thur the hole in the header panel beside the headlight cutout on the passenger side and then back thru the header panel cutout on the driverside. Then unplug the bulkhead connector (there's a 1/4 bolt in the center that you have to loosen, and it's a PITA) and pull the whole mess up and out. The bulkhead connectors will not fit thru the cutout in the header panel. Jeff

LOLZ :cheers: Jeff