mjeff87

that ROCKS! Jeff

Palomalu! :rotfl2: (sorry Brent :rotf: ) Jeff http://nl.youtube.com/watch?v=At69PJ3ymIg

dang Rick, sorry to hear that......my thoughts and prayers are with you. Take care buddy. Jeff

you know why dem gators are so orn'ry?? dey got all dem teeth an' no toothbrush.... Nice pics Rich, good to see that us MJ brothers roll in more than just mud and rocks :cheers: Jeff

Jim Henson.....what a creative mind and a visionary as well. Hindsight being 20-20, can you remember even a fraction of the talent they had on the show back in the day? Alice Cooper, Johnny Cash, Paul Simon, Liberaace......ad infinatum.. a gold mine, and all we saw were puppets at the time :nuts: Strikingly familair to Hanna-Barberra of several decades before. We were all listening to classical music and didn't even know it :yes: Jeff

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YevYBsSh ... re=related If you don't know it......you're too young ;) Jeff

:agree: yoi and double-yoi Taz..... damn near got me misty-eyed with that one. Jeff

I'm in for at least a hoodie and a couple T's.....lemme figure out what I want and I'll be back to you in a bit. Jeff

Give it up for the Pop Rocks!!!! http://nl.youtube.com/watch?v=DkTflRQzCZg Jeff

welcome to the club...stay away from the tan couch in the corner, and you have to buy us all the first round :cheers: Difference on the trannies is pretty straightforward looking at them. If yours has a clamshell casing and has an obvious center rib running the length of the body with a bunch of bolts on it, it's a BA10/5 (bad). If you don't see the center rib but rather three seperate sections bolted together lengthwise, it's an AX15 (good). I'm sure someone will post up good pics of what I'm describing....I just don't have any readily available. SYE's aren't really needed for driveshaft vibes on MJ's due to the longer wheelbase and subsequently longer rear driveshaft length. You can more than certainly install an SYE to gain the advantage of a sealed output on the TC, but it's not necessary like it is on a XJ/YJ/TJ. You could run a later model 231 TC and get the same benefit of the sealed output, but you'll still have the slipyoke versus the fixed yoke. All depends on what you want to spend your $$$ on. Jeff

oh hell ya :thumbsup: Jeff

Lead......is that bolt-on SOA kit available for the D44 or just the '35? thx, Jeff

Negative.....Renix is '87-'90. You can convert a 2WD Ax15 TO 4wd, but it's a fairly involved process and generally not worth it. Cost/labor wise, it's better to just source a 4WD version. They are the same transmission from the bellhousing back to the midplate, but the 2WD has a long extension housing bolted onto the back that you cannot bolt a transfer case onto. The 4WD version has a smaller extension housing bolted on with a flange to accept the transfer case. As well, the output shaft on a 2WD is much longer than the 4WD version, so you'd have to replace it as well when you tore it down to swap the rear sections. JeepCoMJ and a few others have converted 2WD AX5's to 4WD (essentially the same tranny, just a lighter duty version).....hopefully they'll chime in with the particulars on what you would need to do specifically to convert if you really want to. Jeff

Don't go all Bruce Banner on us.......the Incredible CW!! :rotfl2: Jeff

The Renix 'puter is the same whether auto or stick, it doesn't matter. But, if you use an auto harness you'll have to jump the NSS wires to get it to fire, and you'll have to splice in the backup light switch from the AX15 into the auto harness wiring. I've got the wires you need to do this to identified in my post. You'll also have an extra TPS connector in that auto harness, which you can either ignore (it feeds the TCU that you won't be using), or you can use an auto throttle body that has the second connector. Just plug it in....it won't do anything, but it won't hurt anything either. Jeff

small world....my wife's father's family all grew up in 37, and her parents just moved into 40 ;) Never ran any trails up that way though....spent most of my time up off the Gray Run area, firetower, Mountain road and the gasline, down over into New Florence (game land #42). Jeff

yeah, I'm talking about under the hood too......right beside where the HVAC fan motor is, up on the firewall. There should be two hard plastic vac lines coming out of a foam-type recatangular block....they are the lines I'm refering to. They control the valve that lets coolant pass thru the heater core: Image Not Found

txv....now there's a term not often uttered. You do refrigeration for a living ;) ? Yes, those lines need to be connected (one should be pink and one black, but that's beside the point). There's a vaccuum operated valve that opens/closes the coolant supply to the heater core, and those lines control it. When you move the HVAC lever in the cab, not only does it send a vac signal to the plenum to direct air movement, it also sends a vac signal to that valve to open and circulate coolant thru the heater core (XJ/MJ only, YJ/TJ's don't have that and have constant flow thru the core). Connect one of your lines to the vac line that comes from under the battery tray (mentioned earlier) to provide the vac signal, and the other line to the diapraghm on the heater control valve. Then you'll have circulation thru the heater core, and warmth ;) Jeff

Bear, I was looking at those pics, and I coulda sworn some of them looked like they were up off the LHHT, or out the Windber/New Ashtola way...... I'm from Johnstown, down in the West End. We need to meet up the next time I get up into town :cheers: Jeff

I can't speak to the power difference between Renix and HO, but I can tell you that swapping the interior harness is not fun at all. It took me and Jerry about an hour just to get the interior stripped on the junkyard MJ I got the harness from, and we weren't being "gentle" about it.....if I were planning on reinstalling everything it would have taken quite a bit longer ;) I can tell you that the difference between the TBI 2.5 and the Renix 4.0 I swapped in is quite noticeable, and I'm very happy with the swap. Down-the-road plans for me include building a stroker and swapping it in at some point, but that stock engine has more than enough ooompfh for what I'll ever need. 4.56's with 33's, the thing was downright dangerous if you let it be. Jeff

if you stay in the 87-90 renix era, you don't need to swap the interior/dash harness (at least, in my case I didn't). Just source an underhood harness and ECU and plug it up to your existing bulkhead connector @ the firewall. Mine was an 87 2.5/AX5 and I used an 87 Renix 4.0 along with an 89 MJ 4.0/AW4 engine harness and ECU. It eliminated the pesky C101 connector as well. Plugged it in and it fired right up...much to my surprise ;) Here's my semi-long winded writeup on my swap: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11205&st=0&sk=t&sd=a Jeff

ayup...... :ack:

funny y'all mention keg party.....I've got a line on a Kegerator from a guy my wife used to work with. That's gonna be the first appliance moved in :cheers:

yeah, those are a set of Taco shocks (Monroe, cheeep) and they are much shorter than stock. Something like 11"/17" if I remember. Driving 70 miles home from Pat's without any rear shocks......fun, to say the least ;) Jeff

depends on what you are planning for lower shock mounts. The stock mounts are a part of the spring pads....most folks weld on new mounts when they SOA. I retained the stock pads and am running a set of cheap short shocks with the pads on top of the springs. I have a set of RE weld-on perches to eventually attach to the tubes and get proper shocks but for now my setup works decently (but not as good as it could). Jeff Image Not Found