HOrnbrod

No way any crimp joint is as reliable than a proper solder joint. It's a mechanical connection and it's more prone to loosen up under vibration over time. But you do it your way mate.

Pick up a soldering gun and some rosin core solder, and an assortment of heat shrink tubing in various sizes. Crimp connections are unreliable at best and should not be used on automotive applications.

I like Verlander a lot too in spite of the fact he usually beats up on my Red Sox quite often. He's a class act. I always go with the American league team in the Series, doubly so this year since it's against LA. Hopefully he can close it out in game 6 if Houston can get it done tonight.

Err, I believe the OP stated he has a '88 4x4. Not 2WD.

Good. Everybody's done.

Anybody watching? Hell of a series so far, games tied 2-2, game 5 now also tied at 7-7. Two heavyweights slugging it out. Gotta pull for Houston after all the grief the city suffered from Harvey. Roll Astros!!

More like Oyaji.

I hope that doesn't mean it has an Iron Duke engine.

Got MT springs on that thing? It's squatting down pretty bad.

Me too. You could always throw a big old thick steel aftermarket front bumper on and drop down a bit more, but I like the chrome bumper that's there now better. I think those coils will settle a bit more.

Thanks - I'll check it out. Sorry for the hijack - your truck is looking real good. Looks like you got about 3" of lift from the new front coils? They should settle down a bit over time.

I know there supposed to be a mercury switch, but where? In the light housing or the connector? I've forgotten........

Where's the switch?

The ground signal applied when the ignition switch is in the spring loaded start position isn't getting out to the starter. This can be verified with an ohmmeter. I guessing the cause is a burnt connector contact. Try scraping and cleaning the burnt start contact on the connector, or better yet replace the connector.

Well, it's too late for any warranty work on my MJ, so I'll continue to drive with one. In fact, I recently changed it out for a beefier OME stabilizer. Steering still feels the same though.

Figured. Went to the Range TDY a few times. Good luck on the job.

Cool. I retired from SMDC HQ there. You're at WSMR now?

Muchas gracias, señor.

1994 XJ bucket seats and below (not 95 as often posted here) will bolt directly to MJ bucket seat brackets. 1995 was the XJ seat design change, so mods must be made if you plan on using MJ seat brackets, or using your existing XJ brackets. Been done, but not by me.

Did you replace the harness connector pigtail? Were the contacts burnt on the old connector? Did the pigtail connector contact layout match the switch? If you replaced the pigtail did you match the harness wires to the contacts of the new pigtail? Sounds like one of the contacts might be open, or the switch/rod is misaligned.

Bilsteins ride like a buckboard to me, tried them. I use OMEs exclusively, F: 60046, R: 60032 at present. Running 31s is no problem. I do run 1-1/4" spacers on the rear; moves the tires out a bit and looks better. Longbeds rule!

The AMC p/n for your truck is J3250575, crosses to Echlin KS6622, so it appears you have the right switch. Usually when an ignition switch goes out, you need to replace the harness connector also as it's probably toast. THIS thread should help.......

Then buy and try the YJ adapter. Let us know how it works. It's doubtful anybody here has any experience with it; it's for a YJ. And Especially since you have a 2.5 and the crossmembers are different between the 4.0s and 2.5s in the later years.