HOrnbrod

Finally got the waterdams in the doors after procrastinating for over a month. Surprising what a good job they do keeping out road noise. While I was in there also fixed the the driver side power window from slamming to a stop on the way up. Turned out the nylon bushings on the weird bolt assembly that holds the regulator to the glass were toast.

The FSM indicates that the XJ box is a fixed ratio. Where do you see references to variable ratio in the XJ/MJ? My 1991 FSM refers to the steering box as variable ratio. Excerpt from the 1993 Service manual: STEERING SYSTEM - POWER 1993 Jeep Cherokee 1993 STEERING Chrysler Corp. Power Steering - Recirculating Ball Jeep; Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, Grand Wagoneer, Wrangler DESCRIPTION & OPERATION NOTE: This article has been revised as per TSB # 19-02-93 dated Feb. 22, 1993. Steering gear is a variable ratio, recirculating ball type. Power assist is provided by a belt driven hydraulic pump. Control valves are located inside steering gear housing. Maybe the Renix boxes are fixed??

:agree: Everytime I drive thru Knoxville I always see at least two. Chattanooga also. Most of 'em are movin' pretty slow though. :D Hardly see any here............

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=5840 :beerhead:

Agree - to a point. :D The K&N intake system itself is fine w. the heat shield and the solid composit intake tube. I don't like a metal air tube, gets too hot. But it's the cone filter they supply with the kit that sucks. I swapped it out with an inverted cone S&B filter about 3" longer. It adds about twice the filtering area and it's longer length puts it right out there up front at the air hole that the stock airbox filter uses. The filtering media is also finer.

The 95/96 non-ABS dual diaphram boosters are identical. You can also use the 95/96 ABS boosters; different part numbers but the vacuum line hose fitting location is a bit offset. Actually better. :D I used the female XJ seat belts when I converted from bench to bucket seats - no problems.

It's difficult to tell exactly when the mechanical fan vicious clutch kicks in since it spins all the time. I suppose a replacement clutch would be in order especially if you still have the original. Usually when they go bad they just freewheel and you overheat. Even if the fan was running full time locked in the thermostat should still keep the engine running close to it's rated temperature, but it's not. Weird. :roll:

The HO fuel pump will not work with the Renix fuel sender and vice-versa. And both the XJ and MJ HO pumps are the same, but the senders are not. So to use the HO pump you are going to have to find a MJ sender from a 91 or 92 HO model. But both the HO and Renix pumps have three wires; one hot, one ground, and the float output to the fuel gauge.

I have no freeking idea. You are definitely one of the few. :cheers:

Sounds like you gave tried everything except this: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoRadiatorRestrictor.htm Might be worth a shot - can't hurt.

That's correct. The sensor is actually called a thermister and varies resistance according to the temp it sees. The gauge cal figures are: 1365 ohms = 100° 93.5 ohms = 220° 55.1 ohms = 269°

Could be. I don't remember where I got these figures. I think they were on a member's web site on the old Yahoo Comanche group. Automan maybe? Brain dead............

I found these factory annual production numbers awhile ago on the web. Pretty sure they are accurate: Production numbers: 1985: 29,245 1986: 33,386 1987: 43,070 1988: 43,718 1989: 25,311 1990: 9,576 1991: 5,188 1992: 952 EDIT: Here's where I found the numbers: http://www.comanchemj.1hwy.com/photo6.html It was Rob's (Automan) site - guess I'm not brain dead yet. :cheers:

Have you verified the accuracy of your temp gauge with an infrared or laser portable thermometer? These gauges are far from precision instruments. :D

I'm not sure. The 99+ pumps had a pressure relief on the pump itself; the earlier systems has the Schrader valve on the rail. I know a lot of folks who have built stroker engines. Most use the earlier block/head combos because of the infamous cracking issues on the 99+ heads. But all those I'm aware of who have used the 99+ blocks also use the 96 and below fuel rails IF their stroker is in an older rig. My 91 rail has pressure and return lines on it, and it uses the same fuel pump you will be using. Pretty sure you will need to do have this setup too IF you use the 91-92 HO pump/sender.

Correct, left front corner of the engine bay, right in front of the air box. The switched output of the fog light switch comes out on pin 10 (BRN/WHT wire on mine); you use that wire to trigger the new fog light relay.

You know I been thinkin' about this, and I don't think the 91-92 fuel pump is going to run w/o a return line; it will probably vapor lock. I could be wrong, but I really don't think it'll work. Prsssure regulation might be a problem too. To play it safe, a good solution is to get a 91-96 fuel rail w. regulator and pressure relief valve, use the 91-96 injectors (they'll plug right into your 99 intake) and grab the engine bay lower fuel rail supply and return lines and plumb them up to the lines coming from the tank. I KNOW that will work. :cheers:

I used the 37 long shaft gear (31's w. 4.11) and it's real close. :D

The wiring is there from the dash switch cavity to the 10-pin connector up near the front bulkhead. If you didn't have factory fogs, the wiring ends at that connector. But at least you can use that part. :D

Shoot me a PM with an email address and can send you a wiring diagram with which you can use your existing factory wiring from the switch to the forward bulkhead connector. All you have to do is add a relay and wite to the lights from it.

To each his own. I'll skip the constant drum brake adjustments because the "self adjusters" never work, and the rotting out of the shoe springs and levers other and misc. antiquated hardware, and stick to disks. On and off road. Makes no sense IMHO to keep drum brakes for any conditions.

Okay, understand now. AFAIK both yokes use the 1310 u-joints, so as long as the overall driveshaft length is the correct w. the 23-spline yoke it should work fine.

ASSume you saying your driveshaft is now too short and you want to make it longer by installing a longer slip yoke up front? If that's what you mean, yes, it will work, and it's what I did when I lifted the truck. These can be found on Ebay HERE and you can saw it off at the length you need.

http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=details&inventoryID=44604&catId=

Hey Wade, at least the guy has good taste and knows a good looking MJ when he sees it. :cheers: