HOrnbrod

Another freekin' work of art CW. :bowdown: I know it's stout enough, but is it wide enough to fit two 400#-500# cruiser bikes side-by-side?

Since you're installing the 96 booster/master in a 91 MJ you already have the "new style" brake switch - no mods necessary. There are no mods necessary for the booster-to-pedal rod either; just bolt it on to the brake pedal. You may have to buy a new retainer clip for the booster rod as it's hard to get them off w/o destroying them. You will have to fab the new brake lines from the new master to the existing combination (not a proportioning) valve though. :cheers:

If you're referring to the Lions' celebration after their win, I thought it was kind of nice that the players showed respect for their long suffering fans who still turned out in good numbers for their games. I think that's all it meant. And during their drought, you didn't hear their players screaming "TRADE ME or GET RID OF THE QB or FIRE THE COACH, or other such crap as you hear from other teams/players (like a particularly loudmouth wide out who plays for Buffalo at the moment). What a tool..............

There's your problem. The B/S is causing your wheels to stick too far out in the wheel wells. Best is 4.0 - 4.5 for our MJs.

Are you running stock Jeep wheels? If not do you know the backspace of the wheels you do have?

They already are. :D

Another bad weekend for ya mate. Feel for ya. BTW, did you notice? Hoos 0-3; Tide 3-0. Tide ranked #3 - should be #2 before the Horns.

OH NO!!! NOT AGAIN!!! :ack: What's the matter? A Bengal cat got your tongues? :rotfl2:

The switch tabs are identified on the wiring diagram I sent you.

Hands down. Right.

I've been using the same Zoom X6 Model 5590 for years. It's an ADSL modem, wireless-G router, and 4-port switch all in one box. Very good range for a home wireless-G network (have four computers on it, some 200' away), easy to configure, printer sharing, and good security features. The customer support is super too. I've tried a lot of models before, but this unit beats all hands down, and it's all in one compact box. :cheers:

:agree: Welcome to the club, and it's lookin very good. Like your buddy Boston terrier too! Teach him/her to fetch tools yet? :cheers:

The 10-pin connector is up front, left side, forward, in front of the air box. The dash fog lamp switch connector (but not the actual switch) is present on every MJ I have seen. Locate the 10-pin connector, then see if there is a wired connection on pin-10 of that connector. A factory electrical FSM for your year/model MJ is your friend, makes it easy, and is worth it's weight in gold. :cheers:

If your MJ was not equipped from the factory w. the optional fog lamps, the wiring harness from the 10-pin connector on the left side forward engine compartment to the lamps, that includes the connector plugs, will not be there.

Send me a PM w. an email address, and I'll send you a wiring diagram that should answer you questions. :cheers:

Have you regeared or is your rear diff ratio still the normal 3.55 for the AW4? That's pretty tall gearing for 31" tires, and will hurt your mileage as the engine will be lugging in a less economical power band. I did the same (31" tires) and mileage sucked, especially for slow local driving. I regeared to a 4.10 ratio that is much closer to the stock stock final drive ratio. Mileage is now 15-17 in town, and 19-21 highway. And that's w. the stroker. :D What was your mileage before the 31" tire change?

Do you mean the AW4 flexplate to the torque converter bolts? They are kind of special; a real thin slotted hex head with a shoulder. You can get them at the dealer, p/n 3420 2497, about $3/ea.

You might pull the cap and check to see if there is any excess slop in the distributor shaft by turning the rotor back and forth. With it being loose like that it could have damaged the gear. Easy to replace. Also if you have a timing light, hook it up and make sure the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is nice and steady at idle.

Yeah, she was hot, but I was always fond of Clarabell as a youngster. He was my hero because he took no crap from anyone, especially Buffalo Bob. He's got bourbon in that jug. :rotf:

:thumbsup:

:agree: Me too Buffalo Bob. :yes:

Just for kicks I asked the wife, she speaks some Spanish (not her native language) and worked for awhile in the Philippines before we met for an auto/truck parts import/export company, and she remembered the word vieletas as steering/stability related; she thought rear? Swaybar I thought. I did a bit of searching and it popped up on a couple of auto parts vendors in Spain as Mopar as such, but also as a Chrysler link arm hydraulic unit that looks like a steering gear. Not much help I guess, but I'm thinkin' sway bar too........... :dunno:

You bought a 91 MJ w. a bad trans. Do you know the original symptoms as to why it was bad? Then you changed out the AW4 and it's still bad. I think you should look for something external to the AW4; linkage moving the shifter arm, broken throttle cable, inputs and outputs from the TCU, or even try another TCU to see if it changes things. I have an AW4 manual in .pdf format that describes how to do these checks; shoot me a PM with your email and I'll send it to you. :cheers:

Send it to Eagle as he posted the definition of "clean" = "Not Dirty". He didn't say "DirtyComanche" so I don't think he was referring to you personally. But he might have been - you might ask him. :yes: