HOrnbrod

Have you ever spent any quality time in any FJ Sam?

Not a problem for most of the world. But may be in CO? :nuts:

Toy FJs are great vehicles with a long international rep for reliability, but in your neck of the woods the 85 60 series is prolly toast by now. :D If it's served you well, and they usually do, consider another newer FJ. :cheers:

Yep, use the gasket after scraping off and cleaning the mounting surfaces. I usually apply a thin film of hi-temp gasket sealant to the surfaces too. :cheers:

I'll be the retard to respond to this. :D Yes, potentiometers are not present on all the tachometers. If not there is a fixed calibration resistor on all tachs. These resistors can be changed w. another of greater/less ohms, which alters the meter deflection based on input and calibrated to accurately measure RPM. It's usually done by soldering in a temporary potentiometer. Don't say it can't be done just because you don't know how to do it. If the tach is indicating linearly with engine RPM, it can be calibrated with a function generator, an o'scope, a known good standard external tach, and a test potentiometer. And to the original posted who started this mess, stick the 86 cluster in and try the damn thing.

Maybe because he knows everyone here is cheap and not about to pay $3K for a 2WD MJ? Just guessing though. :cheers:

True, but I'm not sure the 90 and 86 tach pickups are the same. Are you? :D If it reads correctly, that's good. Stick it in there and try it.

Willy states that he used S/T/T LED lights and the tail light was out due to the blown load resistor. S/T/T makes these two round lamps: 4" Round Stop-Turn-Tail Light, 10 LED Red (5624110) 2" Round Marker Light, 1 LED Red (5622101) I suspect he's got the 2" round unit, but even if he has the 4" 10 LED array tail lamp, it should typically draw no more than 60 milliamps. I still think the load resistors are sized too large for this LED application.

The 90 cluster will work fine in your 86. As mentioned, you will have to modify the speedo cable hookup and calibrate the tach using the potentiometer on the tach circuit board.

Crap - I missed that. Thought his turn signals were out. :grrrr: However, if an LED has smoked a 5W resistor, and some of the LEDs themselves have burned up, something is wrong. Load resistors are normally 40-80 ohms, 1 or 2 watts. The typical LED only draws 30-50 milliamps. I think the load resistors are sized too large.

The resistors are added to the LEDs to supply a resistive load so the flasher will work. The flasher needs a finite amount of current so it's contacts will heat up and open/close. All flashers are different; they are primitive. Sometimes replacing your incandescent blinker bulbs with LEDs works fine w/o the load resistors, sometimes the LEDs won't flash, sometimes thay flash too fast, and sometimes they just turn on. Even though your flasher may be making/breaking it doesn't mean the LEDs will fire. Lead has the easiest solution; get a 2-prong electronic flasher and dump the resistors. The electronic flashers have a much broader range of operability than mechanical flashers, and it should work fine for you. I've just been through all this with my motorcycle......

So the Taurus lamp is only a 2-pole light; ON/OFF via the door switches. Fits well though...........

Jim is right; switch for the idiot light, thermistor for the gauge. And they can look nearly identical depending on the mfg.

Yes, that's what most use, the airbox space. Then a battery box from a RHD XJ will fit in. There's some writeups on this in NAXJA.

Yeah, fix the brakes, steering, and suspension first before the cosmetic stuff. :D

Thank you kind Sir! :cheers:

There's only one opinion that matters to me - mine. :cheers:

This was hard to choose from all the stupid badmouthing comments to reply to, I choose not to, but I guess this is the one that best exemplifies our MJs. MJ's are are a versatile well rounded rig and can be built to suit just about anything you want; off-roading, street, drag, road racing; the only limitation is your imagination and pocketbook. Your comment "It's a truck & not just any truck, but a truck that is supposed to be made by Jeep. It's supposed to be rugged tough & powerful" is correct. And it was originally made by AMC then imprved by Mopar. But for all these applications, to be successful, correct mods have to be made. In it's day, the MJ was the most powerful p/u made in it's class, but it's dogmeat now. A gas eating underpowered rust prone cow as compared to modern trucks. I'd love to see a basic economical V8 Jeep marque resurrection p/u come to market that can be modified to be competitive for any of the above applications. If an SRT8 "Comanche" was ever marketed, I'd buy it in a minute, then build it to my tastes.

:dunce: :jump:

I was, but couldn't find anything to clear the topper raised center section unless I fabbed it myself. Too lazy and it probably would have looked like crap anyhow.............. :D

Just installed a used junkyard roof rack from an S10 Blazer on my topper, so I thought I'd post the pics. The 1998-2004 S10 Blazer rack comes in two lengths depending if they are 2DR or 4DR. I had to narrow it a little to clear the hump on the shell, but the length was okay. These racks are nice because they can be altered easily front-to-back or side-to-side. Special thanks to Rich (Drahcir495) for the ideas. :cheers:

:shake: Support your forum.

Paypal sent Pete.

The fitted pickup shell was the best. But w. our MJs we're pushing a brick-like box front end through the air and what's in the back really don't matter too much. :D

That should be a fairly simple fix. Use some o-ring stock or gasket material?