HOrnbrod

The pre-manufactured covers never fit correctly. When I had a bench seat, I just brought the original cover to a local upholstery shop and had them replace the fabric only. Kept the original vinyl as it was still decent. About $100.

Incredible final game. I would have liked to see it go in too 'cause I didn't want it to end. :D I'm happy the Dukies won, but I sure would have not been too upset if Butler pulled it off. Both teams played their butts off for every minute of both halves. No losers in this one. :cheers:

Gravity.

Corrosion and/or loose ground attachment. What's your B+ voltage across the battery?

I don't have a wiring diagram for your model. There will be three wires at the pump connector, power, ground, and the output from the float sensor to your fuel gauge. Use your meter w. the - lead on a good chassis ground, and probe the three pins w. the + lead. One should have at least 11VDC, that's your power lead. Then shift your - lead to the the black wire on the connector. The voltage should remain the same. If not, you have a bad ground wire at the connector. Oh, and the key should be on IGN.

You should have at least 10V-11V at the resistor. And at the pump connector. Before you wire 12V directly to the pump measure (ohms) between the pump ground wire and a clean shiny ground on the frame. I think you will have resistance and you have a bad ground to the pump due to corrosion.

Thanks Taz. IB that guy. :D

You need to install the intermittend wiper module in the wiper motor wiring harness. Just unplug at the bottom of the column at the connector and insert the module, like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-Intermittent-Wiper-Delay-Module_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19baedcaccQQitemZ110510328524QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I used HI and LO GM horns from a 1965 Buick Electra 225. They are big all-metal horns that sound like a city bus when activated. Fit nicely up in the space too. Back in the day they knew how to make horns that got your attention. :eek: Old Caddy horns work well too. :cheers:

PM sent. :cheers:

What's the OME shock part number?

Then just use 1/4"x20x1/2" or 3/4" if it's not too long all-thread bolts torqued to spec. w. sealant on the bolt threads. I don't have a shoulder (non-thread portion of the bolt) on my valve cover bolts.

Using the FelPro gasket w. the 4.0 is no problem, but notice you have a 2.5. So what's the difference with the VC bolts? What do you mean by shoulder? :hmm:

Thanks guys. What I'd like to do is what either Rich or Paul did with a roof rack from an old GC, or maybe an XJ I think - can't find the thread right now. But his topper was flat if I remember correctly? Si?

AFAIR, it was about $130 shipped. Didn't just think about it, I DID it! :D Only you can't see how shiny it is because it's covered by the support bracket. But I know it's there. 8)

:agree: :rotfl2:

:agree: Would definitely take the Benz diesel too. And it holds it's resale value well too. :cheers:

Crazy Boulder Lady Kind of explains it. :nuts:

That's what I put on too (ceramic pads), and they had no clips included. :shake:

Okay, and thanks. :cheers:

Is it a width or a height issue? If it's height .. my friend had a similar topper on his Ranger. We used the rack and rails from a Grand Cherokee. Then we put a 1.5" thick board between the rails & the topper as a spacer. It lifted the crossbars up just enough to clear the middle hump/ribs of the topper. Painted the boards black to match, and then we mounted mount a row of those black nylon boat cleats down the sides of the board. Wound up looking pretty good, and with the cleats as anchor points, was very functional, too. Yes. I'd have to do the same because of the raised ribs, but I thought it might look like crap. Do you have a pic?

:thumbsup: Glad you dodged the bullet on the ECU getting fried.

I tried living with it but it drove me batty. Probably something simple or a combination of simples causing it. Different aftermarket manufacturers have different tolerances, for example some pads are thicker than others, the notches are too small, the pad material itself has different shapes, etc. On one set I did on my 01 XJ I had to dremel out the notches just so they could mount the brackets. I assume it's because most of the stuff is now manufactured "offshore". :(

Assume this is for Ralph the 94? Ralph? :D 1991-1992-1/2 were bastard years for MJ 2WD brakes, but they standardized the 2WD/4WD rotors in 93, and the calipers are different than my 91, but the dratted pads and anti-rattle clips are the same, so the above applies. Suggest picking up a set of new clips too as they will be tighter than the old ones and hold the pads better. Oh, and if the new calipers don't come with new slide pins (they usually do) you can reuse the old ones, but grind off about half the little tit (for lack of a better word) that guides the threaded pin into the caliper bracket hole, or it may bottom out when snugged up as the new pads will be thicker. :cheers:

:rotfl2: :rotfl2: Freekin O'Reillys. I'm done with those fools.