HOrnbrod

The tag 895 3004682 translates to: D35 3.55 AXLE ASSEMBLY w/o LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL

Some of these w. the 1310 series u-joints will work on the longbed MJ. May have to be shortened depending on Chev model and MJ tranny and rear diff. But a good cheaper option if it will adapt.

Amen. The rear diff will not be a D35C - they started in 1991 or perhaps 1990. But an MJ D35c will bolt in to your rig. Gives you more options.

Many years ago. Best to call with your measurements and ask Tom.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=20131 Tom Woods will make an alloy shaft for you. I had one made up for LWB. Give him a call - good guy to work with. http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

Okay. I thought you might be using one of their smaller pulleys on the alt to speed it up a bit and get more voltage output at idle. :cheers:

Sorry, this is an HO upgrade only. This alt requires external regulation by the ECU, unlike the Renix. :(

Please tell me about the Kilby pulley and why you used it. :D

I replaced my 90A stocker with a 136A unit as below. It was physically larger but required no grinding as the procedure details. Definitely a difference under full load. http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2004/jeepalt/ Image Not Found

Yeah, probably the same NipponDenso shell, just different amp ratings.

Not in my manuals Jim..........

There are a couple of WJ swaps viable - that's why I ask. Maybe the NAXJA link will show up in your browser "history" button.

Bad decision. Could be anything ranging from bad to worse since you obviously waaay overheated it. Suggest eyeballing for obvious damage, then fitting a new belt and start 'er up, if it will. You will soon know the problem. Good luck mate........ Oh, and check your oil for water bubbles on the dipstick.

So what's the link to the thread that you were reading the other day? Would help to know what you are referring to..........

Yes, they can all be bench calibrated. But you need test equipment. For the voltmeter, it uses a calibration resistor across the meter movement. For this you need a decade resistance box to dial it in. Most of the others have a pot you can dial in, but still specialized test equipment is required. And bench testing still isn't accurate in the real world unless all the wiring from the sensor/pickup point is corrosion free and doesn't have voltage drops. It's a major PITA with these old trucks. I don't do it anymore for that reason.

If he was a nut case, he/she must be from CO. :nuts:

Sounds like the true issue is that you have multiple issues mate. :(

I think you're golden. As long as you read correct charging voltage at 1K RPM+ across the battery with a known accurate multimeter, I wouldn't worry about it. The OEM dash volt meter is the most inaccurate of all the gauges in the cluster. I've calibrated my own and many others, but with full load (headlamps, both fans, HI blower, etc.) I still dip below midrange, but when checking w. my standard meter it's fine. A lot of it has to do with where the dash voltmeter picks up it's sensing; it was changed throughout the years. As long as your cables are in good shape, all connections are corrosion-free, and all the grounds ((batt, fenderwell, firewall, and engine block) and good, you are good. :D

Genuine OEM, good price. Nice to have a spare. HERE

Pull your shocks and manually compress them down and see if they return by themselves. Sounds like you have a blown shock (or two).

:agree: TOO! Don't cut, slash, and/or hack; keep it PnP restorable. Adapter harnesses are cheap and available for nearly any replacement unit. Here's mine w. a Mitsubishi single DIN CD/ROM unit.

Entirely different.

Not an opinion - fact. They are the same for all MJ years/models.

Plenty of them on Ebay.........

I agree, it's ugly, but beautiful under the hood. It's got a supercharged 4.9L stroker motor and freekin' flies! It's the Hesco delivery truck. :D