HOrnbrod

Wha? P/u an old Shimano Nexus 4-5-6 speed compatible rear wheel w. coaster brakes built in. Dump your rear wheel brake cable, and run a new cable from the Nexus handlebar shifter to the Nexus hub. Better brakes, cleaner, and you have a gear train to use. :cheers:

Sorry mate, believing fish tales like that w/o pics is worse than believing in the tooth fairy. :rotf: :needpics:

OR you can pickup the fuel line quik-connect repair kit from the dealership (p/n 8350 2745). There is also a fuel rail seal kit available from the dealer (p/n 83503637, about $12) that has the o-rings for the regulator and all the injectors. :cheers:

Thanks Joe - Bummer. The 30" will not make it for the front, but would work for the rear piece. Spencer?

That sounds like a good plan Bo. :D Is she still sitting in the same spot waiting for you?

Looks like the LWB needs 35" for the front bed piece; 29" for the rear Joe and Spencer. :cheers:

I used 2.5-degree shims when I installed the MT springs Jim determined with an angle finder during the spring install. Install the new leaf packs under the axle with the front bolt and rear shackle bolt snugged, then lower the axle down and line up and install the center pins. Install and snug up the U-bolts. Lower it down, jump up and down on the rear bumper, then do the pinion angle measurement with your angle finder. I needed to raise the pinion up 2.5 degrees to look directly at the tranny (in your case the TC) -1 to offset the diff pinion raising up during acceleration. So the shim wedge is pointing to the rear. Only use steel shims drilled for the exact size of the center bolt. Aluminum shims are cheaper but crumble up over time - don't use them. Here's a good site that shows how measure the pinion angle and they also make steel leaf spring shims. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml HTH. :cheers:

Sad to see it go also. But you can pickup a nice clean Cali LWB MJ once you get settled in and do your thing. BTW, where are you going? Twentynine Palms or Pendleton? :D

And that 7+ pounder that Northup caught in RI is a freaking monster for New England. I grew up fishing there and never caught one even 5 lbs. That RI 7+ pounder is equivalent to a 13+ pounder down here. :cheers:

Agree Dave, and I know you are passionate about your work and I certainly wish all auto techs were like you. But as in any profession there are bad apples who don't give a damn and give the good ones like you a bad rep. I apologize for my remarks. It's that stupid :nuts: smiley that always gets to me when I've had a few Millers. :cheers:

Beer?

Before I even start this response to Dave's post, I want to make it very clear that it has nothing to do with Rob's video. I have lots of respect for Rob and know he knows. :D Nobody's worried Dave, as you pointed out many times with your frequent use of the :nuts: smilie. You don't have to be a certified mechanic or turn wrenches for a living (as you always point out that is what you do and everyone else is an idiot) to know it's wrong to see some dumbass certified technician cranking away with an air hammer or torque stick that hasn't been calibrated since purchased ten years ago because of economic cutbacks or apathy/ignorance by the dealership or an independent shop. Not so serious in the automotive industry, maybe a busted or stripped wheel stud or whatever. The certified mechanic does what he does with the tools he is given; it's not his fault if something happens because he is given non-accurate torque tools to work with. I worked in a USN military class IV standards cal lab for many years, where we calibrated the torque tool standards (among many other criteria) that were used by lower cal labs in the field (carriers and shore-based labs, etc.) to locally cal their tools used for aircraft and missile applications. W/o going into detail, this was serious work and critical to the safety of the pilots and war fighters. Much higher level than you'll ever see Dave, but proper calibrated tools are mandatory and proper training in their use is critical. So don't go ASSuming that a certified technician knows all and everyone else is a dumbass. It's obvious you take your work seriously; I respect that. But there's a lot of "certified" clowns out there that do not, and that's what I'm talkin' about mate.

Thanks Rob - should legally work then. Be kind of subtle, but that would be good too. :D Image Not Found The side decals were all the same color, but the tailgate decals come in 10 different colors. There was also a door decal (item 3). WTF was that?

I'd volunteer Joe, but have a LWB so I doubt the decals you received will fit my bed. If you get a chance, please measure the length of the front and rear bed pieces. There was only one decal set offered according to the parts manual for the 91-92 Eliminators: 1991-1992 4636350 & 4626351 So it appears that these were all the same color, and fit both LWB and SWB Eliminators. After trimming of course. :D And my color is the 91 factory color, and I'd assume you could order a LWB Eliminator in this color. But I've never seen one. Did Eliminators only come in selected colors?? :dunno:

:agree: This can happen. No likely, but possible. The HOs are more susceptible to this as the voltage regulator is part of the ECU. Not worth taking a chance.

Of course I noticed. They have a cal procedure too.

Excess hammering on the wheel mounting w. the BF hammer gun. Makes me cringe to see that. :( Only kidding Rob-man. I'm sure they are calibrated for exactly the precise lug nut torque value. :cheers: But y'all have no $$? Maybe calibrating the torque tools periodically budget item isn't there? :D Just sayin'

Yep. OME is the only company I've seen that "underrates" their lift coil/leaf springs. The OME 934 front coils are listed as 2-3/4" lift; they give a true 3" (934 is listed as a ZJ V-8 spring but is also used on the XJ/MJ). OME ride is the best. Combined w. the WJ lower LCAs, I think this is the best setup by far for a smooth riding 3" lift w/o added weight up front like a winch. I'm using OME 930s (advertised as 1-3/4" lift) but they gave me 2-1/2", thus I used another stock isolator for the full 3". Has not settled after four years now.

I don't think that thing would last more than one load of a big rock load Bob. Man I hauled tons and tons of what they call "river rock" down here when we were building rock walls and walkways down the the lake. What a butt-busting job. :ack: The MT springs earned their keep on that job. :cheers:

Yeah, I remember a similar post and used it. It pertained to doubling up the stock isolators on top of a 3" lift coil (OME's in my case) to level things out when the rear was a little higher than the front. It resulted in slightly less than 1/2" more lift. :cheers: Maybe this is the post you are referring to, si?

Why do you need to use the Isuzu power mirror switch? Do you have a full console installed in your MJ or the console cupholder? If so then you can use the older mirror control switch mounted in the console to control any power mirrors. The older style control switch can also mount in a dash blank panel. I have the wiring diagram for that. :cheers:

Do a search over on NAXJA. I remember someone put an MJ visor on an XJ so it might work. But the angle wasn't quite right - don't remember all the details.

Lund made two distinct visors with different part numbers for the XJ and MJ. The MJ visor is Lund p/n 19040; the XJ is 19030 and is stamped on the upper right corner of the visor. http://auto-trim.com/moonvisors.shtml Admin Edit: the part numbers were switched but now are accurate

So do I, and old Simpson 260. Neg lead to neg post, pos lead to pos post, and check the voltage with the engine off. Then start the engine and check again at about 1500 RPM. The indicated voltage should be about 1.5VDC higher than the at rest reading.

ASSume you are using an extended slip yoke this to increase drive shaft length due to a lift? Correct yoke length depends on the spline engagement to the TC or tranny. Too long it will bottom out; too short it will slip out during full flex. You have to measure the length of the yoke cavity full out to bottom out by inserting a wire into the cavity, then split the difference for the correct spline engagement of the driveshaft. Oh, and what's the operating angle at the front of the driveshaft? The extended GM slip yokes won't handle much more than 5-7 degrees w/o grinding.