HOrnbrod

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARbrakeBoosterUpgrade/BrakeBoosterUpgrade.htm

This is true. :yes:

:agree: From the pics the distance between the F/R legs looks like a it's for a SWB. Find out the measurement between the mounting points of the front and rear legs. Should be at least 30".

Hope you changed out the Bonneville gears to something a bit lower. :D

Yeah, thought long and hard about that Sam, but decided to just get it blasted back to the natural "as cast" finish on mine. Haven't ever seen one polished and installed. It is a rough casting and would require a lot of material removal........

:clapping: I wouldn't have made it to the restaurant, watch TV, or anything else if it didn't start. I'd be fixin it.

Yep, this is the one that is near the top of my list. I could pull into an empty 40 acre parking lot and park, the only one in the lot. Come out of the store and there are vehicles left-right-fore and aft parked all around me close as they can get. The rest of the lot is still empty. :headpop: I guess it's due to the herding instinct most people have. :dunno: Other things that grind my gears: 1. People who point at their wrist while asking for the time. I know where my watch is. :fs2: Do I point at my crotch when I ask where the bathroom is? 2. People in the supermarket check out line who wait until their entire bill is rung up before they begin writing their check. 3. When a cop pulls you over and then asks if you know how fast you were going. I mean, doesn't this clown have a speedgun? This actually happened last Saturday, a local cop pulled me over for doing 55 in a 35 MPH zone. He asks me the above; I said my speedo read 40MPH. Then I asked him that since I had just had larger tires installed (which I did), would that make my speedo read high? He puffs all up and says it shore will. You have to change the gear to calibrate your speedometer. Playing the fool I told him I didn't know that and thanked him for telling me. He let me go with the promise I'd get 'er done Monday. :cheers:

Do you know what disk brakes the PO installed on the rear? Most popular MJ disk brake donors are from a Jeep ZJ or Ford Explorer. Both have the parking brake shoes and mounts built-in to the backing plate. But if the PO pulled the e-brake pedal and cables he probably pulled the shoes too. Probably the cheapest way out would be to get the correct disk backing plates w. shoes from the yard, then put in an XJ e-brake lever and cable assembly to actuate them. Do you need a parking brake in your state for registration/inspections ?

Yeah, he could have. :( I had just finished beating up my dog and was in a bad mood. :thwak: But seriously banshee, I do apologize. And no, I don't beat up my dog. :yes:

They are available, but not cheap. http://www.damperdoctor.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=DD&Category_Code=AMC http://www.damperdudes.net/index.php?manufacturers_id=10

Topic: question Advice required: Piss off mate.

My 91 has done that from day one. With the A/C on, electric fans running, the VM drops to about 10-11 volts at idle. I even have larger mains cables and a 134A ZJ alternator. But at the battery it's always about 14.5V. I spoke to Jon Kelly over at NAXJA (he markets the larger mains cables) and he said it's common with the 91's he's worked on because of where the factory hooked up the positive sensing lead. As long as you read the correct voltage across the battery I wouldn't be concerned. Squealing belt? Might be glazed and need replacement or it's too loose.

Amazing. Fuel pump relay problem.

Navy... Recruit basic training is normally called boot camp in the USN or the USMC. Glad to see you made the right decision. :thumbsup: Got any idea which career field you'll be going into?

I would still do the voltage check at the pump in the START and RUN ignition switch positions.

Try swapping out your fuel pump relay; sounds like it's not latching when you go back to the RUN position. To verify have a helper with a volt meter monitor the voltage at the fuel pump terminals and verify that B+ voltage remains at the pump when you go to the RUN position.

Check your PM inbox.

Yes it is.

You don't say what year your truck is, but the front brakes look the same as my 91 2WD brakes. Things that can cause this: 1. The inboard and outboard pads are different and they will install the wrong way. If you install the wrong way you will get a clicking squealing noise when braking hard. The way to tell is to compare the brake pad material shape on the pads to the old ones and put the new pads in the same way. As I recall, there was more pad material on the inboard pad. 2. Did you replace the caliper slide pins? The new pins I got with my ceramic pads set were about 1/4" too long. The tip of the pin threaded end would contact the knuckle when tightened all the way down. You can either grind the tip or reuse the old pins. 3. The upper and lower ridges where the caliper rides get worn down over the years and the caliper gets loose on the mating surfaces and can cause the sound you hear when braking because the caliper twists. The only cure is to replace the caliper mounting bracket (best) or run a weld bead on the ridge then grind it back down to original specs to build the surface back up so the caliper is snug. There's a writeup on NAXJA on doing this. This is what I think your problem is as the caliper looks too sloppy on your rig.

EDIT: And not be super stupid enough to be caught on camera. They for sure had been doing it for years and got careless. :nuts: Not an uncommon occurrence in the workplace.

Be sure to fasten your seat belt. :shake:

I'd probably ram a couple and smoke a joint too if I had to live and work in Detroit. :ack:

Try it. If the fuse blows when you turn on the parking lights then you have a dead short in the illumination circuit. Have you done any work on the radio lately?

How about if you pull the headlight switch one stop (parking light position) does the dash illumination fuse blow? Also which fuse is blowing, and what vehicle are we talking about?

Try turning your headlight knob fully ccw with your headlights on. That's the illumination control for the dash lights.