HOrnbrod

For sure. :thumbsup:

Rog. Thanks Remi. :cheers:

Slap or not slap yourself mate. You're experienced enough, mature enough, and for sure intelligent enough to make the "correct" decision based on where you're at. :cheers:

Off topic, but what was the result with the Street Comanche Remi? http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=31753&hilit=STREET

I just notched the arm itself with a grinding wheel. Doesn't take much.

Yep, right out of the manual Jim. But what's more useless in their first year of active duty than a just out of school O-1 Enswine? Or any other O-1 in the other services? Their major value at sea was serving as fresh meat on the fantail smokers (boxing matches). It was great for crew morale to see the Naval Academy middleweight champ Enswine getting cold-cocked by a mess cook from Brooklyn named Fazio or similar in the first round. But while ashore, of course we had to follow rank protocol.

Was coming from the outer edge on my pinion seal. But the pinion yoke isn't a slip yoke either, so :dunno:. I must have pulled my driveshaft ten times before getting the new D44 to stop leaking, but still there absolutely no leaks at the tranny slip yoke end.

I suspect G has already done that, si? Did you use sealant around the OD outer mating surface of the seal? Can you see if the leak is coming from the ID or OD of the seal? Had to do the similar pinion seal twice because I didn't use sealant on the OD the first time. :cheers:

Medical Corps, Physician Assistant Jay. She went into Army ROTC under a Army Nursing scholarship but fell a little short. But that's okay, at least she made it through, got her degree, got commissioned and fulfilled the scholarship requirements. Once she gets on active duty, she plans to finish her nursing training and move into the Army Nurse Corps. They get promoted faster. :cheers:

Jake, try adjusting the Throttle Valve cable (commonly called the kickdown cable) first. If maladjusted it will cause your AW4 shifting points to be all over the place. Takes no tools and about five minutes to do. 1: Push in and hold the release button 2: While holding in release button, push "conduit" in as far as it will go 3: Release button 4: Rotate throttle to WOT, some people do this with the gas pedal. Others do it from the engine compartment. 5: Hold at WOT for a few seconds, cable should ratchet out a click or two. 6: Your TV cable should now be properly adjusted. :cheers:

The pay's not bad nowadays either. A boot O-1 fresh out of school makes $33408/yr base pay, plus free lodging, food, medical, clothing, and paid continuing education. And all kinds of incentive pay for what you do and where you're at, like flight pay, COLA, etc. etc. Great job security too, and nowhere to go but up. In today's economy, that's not a bad way to start. ;)

Nope. :D And they know better than to wait for that.

Daughter #1 was commissioned today as a US Army 2nd Lt. Took her a year longer than expected, but she finally squeaked through. She will remain in the active Guard until called up for active duty next year. Daughter #2 will be commissioned as a USAF 2nd Lt. this fall. She has been accepted for flight school training at Pensacola NAS and will be reporting in immediately after commissioning. She wants to fly cargo aircraft like the C5 and C141 in preparation as a commercial pilot after active duty. Just thought I'd share. The knuckleheads are doing okay, in spite of wanting nothing to do the the Navy. :cheers:

Add Hesco to that list, the best of all of them. :cheers: http://www.hesco.us/

Are you doing the dual diaphragm brake upgrade to your 91? Then the 95-96 XJ master/booster is easiest the way to go. Pure bolt in mechanically by using the stock 95-96 aluminum spacer plate between the booster and the firewall. The only fab mod necessary is bending new lines from the new 95/96 master to your existing combo using the existing combo valve flare fittings on your new lines. The proportioning valve (load sensing valve) will remain as is.

I had Ford Explorer disks on my D35 c-clip axle. When I put in the D44, I reused the Explorer disks on it, but had to use preload spacers to take up the slack in the axle flange difference between the two axles and apply correct pressure pressure on the axle seals. The preload spacers look like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330616811822 and are necessary when swapping disks on the D44 and D35 non c-clip rear axles. They are not needed on the D35 c-clip axle. Also, the axle flanges for the D35 non c-clip and D44 are the same. The ZJ and Explorer backing plates will fit these axles. The bolt spacing is different for the D35C axles. See also this thread: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=30367&p=304485&hilit=flange#p304485

:popcorn: :smart:

This is what it looks like. If they break, they have been known to keep the head lamps on. If you have one, unplug it and see if the head lamps operate correctly with the switch. Image Not Found

That's just the point, I'm using an existing dash temp gauge sensor to the SPAL. Sure you could use an additional dedicated fan speed sensor by installing one in the rad bung or somewhere, but that's adding an additional sensor you don't need and more wiring. The SPAL controller works just fine by paralleling it's temp sensing wire to the existing dash temp gauge temp sensor output wire. And the voltages from the gauge sensor are ideal for the SPAL.

Thanks, glad to help. Another tip on wiring the SPAL PWM controller: Use the dash temp gauge sensor for the SPAL signal wire at the back of the head, not the thermostat cover temp sensor. This sensor is the engine temp feed to the ECU, and there's not enough voltage change delta from low temps to high temps to reliably trigger the fan speed from LO to HI. It's too spastic. The dash temp gauge sensor works mucho better providing crisp OFF-LO-HI fan speed signals. :cheers:

The is a square connector near the ECU hanging on the end of a cable that is called the "test" connector (the DRB2 test set plugs into it). It has a switched an ignition switched 12V terminal that takes a spade terminal. That's what I used for the Spal.

Chances are even if you do get a new "remanufactured" steering box, it will still have slop. I heard of guys going through four of them before they found a tight one. I think they have monkeys rebuilding them. Go to the junkyard and look for any low mileage 93-98 ZJ box. I got one with 70K on it for $50 and it was like new. Plus it's a little quicker ratio and feels a lot better than the stock MJ box on the road. It's bolt-in, only you'll have to reuse your original Pitman arm.

Okay, we meant the same thing. :cheers: Either way, $125 isn't a bad deal IF the axles are okay. Sounds like this D44 has been rode hard and put away wet a lot though............

^ Yep, that's the difference. If he's planning on regearing to 4.10 he'll need a new carrier anyhow. Unless he uses thick gears.

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