HOrnbrod

Plug like this?

Now that is a bold statement! I recognize that as the ultimate compliment coming from a gentleman not easily impressed and so in tune to his inner bling. :laughin: :idea: ...you've just inspired a new idea. It's probably a damn good idea too. :yes: Just one problem I see with the roll pan though: it would be tough to install a frame hitch back there......

picked it up in Gardendale AL. Have you met this comanche before? That would be wild... No, the one I'm thinking of was way further north. Used to belong to the county judge up here. Image Not Found

Just curious - where did you find this MJ is AL. Looks familiar..........

I love that roll pan Mr. Earl. I'd give up one of my new chrome rear bumpers for one if it looked that nice. :cheers:

Thanks for your service, past and present. :USAflag: :Canadaflag:

http://www.allworldauto.com/recalls/NHTSA_86V147000_1986_JEEP_COMANCHE_recall_82649.html Image Not Found

That too.

This is good advice if you're not a welder or don't have access to one. The only thing I would add is what PFCLeist suggested, for seam sealer use a few layers of fiberglass sheet and resin. Works well, lasts a long time.

The 4.0 covers, be they stamped steel or cast aluminum, will interchange providing you use the correct FelPro gasket for the cover. One has spacers for the bolts (steel); the other does not (alloy). Also the CCV grommets, elbow fittings and tubes were different starting in 95-96 -ish (1/4 turn lock vs. press in). The CCV vent tubes were increased in size for better crankcase ventilation to better prevent blowby.

Yes, I have some left but none for sale at this time Fred. Sorry.

Yeah, those were NOS right out of the factory box. The chrome had some minor imperfections over time with zero use or exposure. Also AMC packed these into a box barely large enough to cram the tail lamp into. It kept them secure from rattling around, but a few trips in and out of the box would wear the chrome off. I've sold a few sets of these over the years and none of them were absolutely perfect.

They are a bit more than silver paint. This is how they look new. Notice the chrome plating on the outside edges of the silver painted strips. This is how they look new. Unfortunately over 20 years or so the hard brittle chrome plating flakes off leaving raggedy edge stripes.

That's correct for only the 91s. ASSume the original 91 TCU is swapped in too? I'm fresh out of ideas Ben. Hate to have you go through all the work of changing the VSS and it doesn't solve the problem, but it looks like you covered everything else.

:hmm: Not sure what you're getting at here. I was referring to the rear driveshaft. Speedo hasn't worked since the rear shaft went in... probably just a coincidence though. I tested the sensor in the trans this morning. Ah, okay - I read it wrong. Agree with the rear driveshft coincidence though. Just curious, how many electrical pins are on the adapter connector above the plastic speedometer calibration gear? This one:

I checked continuity from the sensors to the firewall. Screws in the cluster were all tight. I even took everything apart in there to clean the board. The thing about it is it worked June when I was swapping everything over: Truck hasn't been on the road more than 50 miles since then. It worked without the driveshaft in... haven't pulled it back out to recreate the day of the video. Worth it? I don't see how the drive shaft in or out will affect it since the rotor is still turning in the tranny and the VSS reed switch is still making and breaking. Have you tested this? I suppose you could stick in back in to recreate the original condition. Easier than changing out the VSS sensor..................

Are you saying "newer" 4.0L engines used TTY head bolts? What's your definition of "newer"?

Yes, mine did check good with an ohmmeter. My meter has a switch position on the ohms scale that beeps when it senses continuity. I had it across the connector pins in this position, had the AW4 in neutral with the ignition key on, and rotated the tires by hand with the rear axle jacked up of the ground. It did beep as I turned the wheels. But this check I think is unreliable as turning the wheel by hand probably equates to a speed of .0009 MPH, and the speedo doesn't even register at that speed. Since our local Mom and Pop Jeep dealer didn't have a working DRBII scanner to do a proper check, I took a chance and replaced it. It's easy to get to on the 2WD tailpiece. Luckily the speedo started working again. Don't know if it will for you Ben. Are you sure the wiring checks good all the way back? Speedo mounting screws in the cluster good and tight?

http://comancheclub.com/topic/31182-front-ambers/?hl=amber&do=findComment&comment=315138

Yes, they are correct according to the part numbers given in the Ebay seller's description.

Depends on your pocketbook. For starters, an HO head because of the mismatched exhaust ports for your Renix head for the header. This will allow you to install an HO throttle body, a 99+ intake manifold w. a 97 and up power steering pump and bracketry. Then you will need to do the TPS work-around if you stay with the Renix system. I'm not a Renix fan, support parts are drying up for them, and to me it's like polishing an obsolete turd. BUT I respect those who love their Renix Electronique machines, are comfortable with this French/Bendix system, and will not change. If you are dead set on keeping the Renix setup, others are much more qualified to respond than I. I have the renix pace setter header ,and bought it from a fellow CC member as it was a good deal ,and new in box. Was only looking to fix a problem at the time ,and any gains would be a plus. I think i'll re-gear to 3.55 ,and install the header and call it good until something bad happens to my engine.Pocketbooks kinda light ,and will be that way till I get my house paid for. Sounds like a real good plan, and you have your priorities straight. :thumbsup:

Thanks for ruining my lunch Jim...........

Depends on your pocketbook. For starters, an HO head because of the mismatched exhaust ports for your Renix head for the header. This will allow you to install an HO throttle body, a 99+ intake manifold w. a 97 and up power steering pump and bracketry. Then you will need to do the TPS work-around if you stay with the Renix system. I'm not a Renix fan, support parts are drying up for them, and to me it's like polishing an obsolete turd. BUT I respect those who love their Renix Electronique machines, are comfortable with this French/Bendix system, and will not change. If you are dead set on keeping the Renix setup, others are much more qualified to respond than I.

Thanks for doing that.