HOrnbrod

The 91-92 only had an oddball cast aluminum cover. The CCV fittings had slots and had to be rotated 90* to seat them. The 93 and up aluminum covers used simple push-in grommets and had no slots. The 93 and up also used larger diameter CCV plastic tubing that was more effective eliminating blow-by. So, the 93 and up covers will bolt directly on the 91-92 head with no problems, but you have to use the 93 and up CCV fittings and tubing. It's a good upgrade too. :thumbsup: This is a 95 valve cover on my 91. You can see the larger CCV plumbing.

Next time when removing something stuck-on with double sided tape try mono filament fishing line. :thumbsup:

Fixed it for you. You have to reduce the gigantic resolution of your pics before uploading to your picture host.

Since it was running fine before the OP spotted a fuel leak, changed injectors, now has a fuel problem, it's probably not a corrosion and/or ballast resistor problem. But I suppose anything is possible.

You don't have to "prime" the fuel rail with Jeep fuel injection. The submerged pump is in the tank; it's a pressure system not a suction system, forget priming. As soon as you turn the key to RUN the rail will fill up then cut off when the regulator sees about 30#. IF the fuel pump is receiving the correct voltage, the pump works, and there is enough fuel in the tank. If this is not happening, if the fuel pump isn't running then cutting off, report back. IF the pump starts, then stops in a few seconds, go to Autozone, borrow a fuel pressure gauge, hook it up to the fuel rail Schrader valve making sure that it's fitted with the correct connector that has an internal center pin that depresses the Schrader valve stem, turn the key on, and look at the gauge to see what the pressure is. You don't have to start it. If it's about 30# or more, report back. Did you happen to disconnect the fuel supply line quick-connector from the rail?

:yes: I knew you would be curious Jim. Looking forward to seeing your results.

I've never had to do this personally, but others claim it works for a soft pedal cure if you still have the rear valve. Posted originally by Eagle: Here's the official FSM procedure to follow when bleeding the brakes on an MJ that still has the two lines to the rear:

Assume your rear height sensing valve is long gone, si?

Understand. I doubt any of our trucks will hold the pressure for two hours as per the FSM. Sure would like to hear about it if someone's did though.

Try the booster test below. It might point you in the right direction. (Originally posted by Skidoo_i) Test Power Brake Booster If the pedal feels "hard" while the engine is running, the booster isn't operating correctly. If you suspect the booster is defective, do not attempt to disassemble or repair the power booster. Doing so is unsafe and will void your warranty. Test 1 With the engine off, pump the brake pedal to remove any residual vacuum in the booster. Hold pressure on the pedal while you start the engine. When the engine starts, the pedal should drop about a 1/4", this indicates that the booster is working properly. Test 2 Run the engine a couple of minutes. Turn the engine off and press the pedal several times slowly. The first pump should be fairly low. The second and third should become slightly firmer. This indicates an airtight booster. Test 3 Start the engine and press the brake pedal, then stop the engine with the pedal still pressed. If the pedal does not drop after holding the pressure on the pedal for 30 seconds, the booster is airtight. Inspect the Check Valve Disconnect the vacuum hose where it connects to the intake manifold. Do not disconnect the vacuum line from the booster. Air should not flow when pressure is applied, but should flow when suction is applied. If air flows in both directions or there is no air flow, the valve needs to be replaced. Verify Enough Vacuum Check the operating vacuum pressure when the engine is at normal operating temperature. There should be a minimum of 18 in. of vacuum. Vacuum may be increased by properly tuning the engine, checking for vacuum leaks and blockages in vacuum lines

Some people watch too much Barrett - Jackson.

Thanks gogmorgo. I've tested mine several times over the years and have never seen the gauge hold pressure for longer than 15 minutes or so. I need to replace the original rubber supply and return rubber hoses between the sender and the hard lines anyhow, so I'll stick an inline check valve in and see what happens.

Anyone do one of these lately? As in hook up a pressure gauge on the fuel rail Schrader port, start the engine up, let it idle for a bit, then shut it off and watch the gauge. The FSM says that if it leaks down more than 20# withing two hours, you have a problem with either the regulator or the anti-drain valve in the fuel pump supply line. My fuel pressure goes to back zero within ten minutes. Since the weather has turned a little colder I'm experiencing a bit longer crank/start time thus I checked it out. I suspect it's the fuel pump, and plan on installing a check valve between the pump and the fuel filter on the supply line. Just curious if anyone has checked their fuel pressure out lately.

http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Wrangler-Fuel-Valve-Package/dp/B004VS53J0

^^ This is 100% correct. The old Mopar balancer, p/n 33002920, requires the slinger installed. The newer Mopar balancers with an AB or AC suffix however are slightly thicker than the old balancer. So to seat all the way on the crank the slinger needs to be removed for the new Mopar balancers. However if you use an aftermarket balancer, like a Dorman or Pioneer, the slinger needs to be there as it's the same thickness as the original Mopar damper. As far as the oil slinger being necessary or important for lubrication, it isn't. It's only necessary as a shim.

Shoot me a PM with your email addy and I can send yo the AW4 stuff I have. :thumbsup:

Don't understand what you are asking. For the HOs, hook up a pressure gauge on the rail, pull the vacuum hose off the regulator, screw the adjuster screw in, and the fuel pressure increases exponentially w. vac / wo. vac to the regulator. The increased pressure forces more fuel through the injectors as indicated on the A/F gauge. ASSume the Renix version works the same way if that's the one you are using. As far as the check valve, you can install an external in-line fuel check valve if the one in the pump is shot. I haven't done it, but others have. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fuel-pump-check-valve-21921/

There is an ID plate on the right rear side that has the AW4 model number and serial number. Get that then call a transmission shop to ID your tranny (if you can't find anything on-line). Then you can cross the year in the Mopar parts manual to ID the correct TCU for it. Do you have the AW4 manual(s)?

Good thing the TCUs retained the same 32-pin connector throughout the years. Now I know why the 1992 TCU didn't work right in my 91. The converter lockup signal appeared on a different pin. You probably were not getting the speed sensor feed either. Do you have a Renix TCU pinout diagram you can post up to compare the two?

The green connector is the same TCU I have in my 91. The 91 and 92 TCUs also have a different p/n's. What that difference is :dunno: . I can send you the pinout of the 91 TCU and if you have the Renix TCU diagram you can compare to make sure the correct function is on the correct pin? The 32-pin TCU's have many unused pins. EDIT: Attached the pic. You might have to blow it up a bit.

The HO vacuum cannister and fuel pressure vacuum lines come off the same "T-eed" manifold port, which frees up a dedicated manifold port for the MAP sensor. There is no vacuum port on the HO throttle body.

Looks like you are about maxed out height-wise by the garage door, si?

Popular custom tails for pickups. Donor.........

The "cure" is an intake manifold heat shield and a wrap around the affected injector, usually #3. The part number is highlighted in RED above is the injector wrap. The debris shield mentioned above is part number is CBXCB060, and pictured below. I put one on when I installed my 2001 intake manifold. Both are like $2-$3 at the dealer.