HOrnbrod

What are you looking for? The accelerator peddle cable? If so, the TV cable is not that cable.

Fuel line supply is 5/16". On HOs fuel return is 3/8", not sure on the Renix. Tranny cooling lines are both 3/8".

You need 5/16" quick connectors for the fuel line. O'Reilly's has them here: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/27481.oap?ck=Search_83502745_-1_-1&keyword=83502745+ The dealer will charge you over $20/ea, but they are better quality. Rock Auto also has them, p/n HK7

They be in. :cheers:

Go back to the service box and locate the fuse/circuit breaker that feeds that fixture. Measure the voltage between that fuse/circuit breaker and neutral in the box. This will tell you if the voltage out of the box is correct or if the problem is downstream. Also make sure the fuse/circuit breaker wire terminal connections for that circuit are clean and tight.

Throttle body to AW4 transmission.

Also make sure the vacuum check valve(s) are there and orientated in the proper direction to allow the intake manifold to "suck" vacuum. Depending on installed equipment that use vacuum to function (cruise, HVAC, cooling, etc.) there could be up to three check valves. They do go bad, and can be tested with a vacuum pump. Or do what I do, suck and blow using your built-in vacuum body pump.

:bs: It's the throttle valve (TV) cable, not the TVS cable. TVS stands for Thermal Vacuum Switch, used in the air cleaner housing of 80's and earlier carbed vehicles, including Jeeps.

This guy has more excuses than a dead horse has flies. Weather permitting of course. :yes:

If the noise turns out to be the idler pulley bearing (it often is), the replacement bearing number is 6203-2RS. They are everywhere online and easy to replace. Cost about $2-$3 each.

I never could bleed the brakes worth a damn by myself. Borrowed and tried pressure bleeders, vacuum bleeders, etc. The old PUMP-HOLD-CRACK BLEEDER-CLOSE BLEEDER-RELEASE PEDAL and start over again and again using the wife or whomever's available as the pumper and me as the bleeder works the best. I've tried to use Gus the Cocker Spaniel, but his legs are way too short. Occasionally he manages to hold the pedal down, but when he releases it hits him in the mouth and he attacks the pedal. :shake:

Use two relays, one for HI beam, one for LO beam.

In a perfect world, the stock 60W/55W sealed beams pull a bit over 6 amps with adequate gauge wiring and no corroded connections to cause voltage drops. So you will need a switch with a rating of at least 10 amps. Where you get it is your problem - I don't recommend hot-wiring headlamps.

There is no relay for the headlamps in MJs or XJs. All the amps drawn by the headlamps go through the headlamp switch. That's why they burn up quite regularly, especially when upgrading the headlamps to a higher wattage bulb, like H4s. So, no, do not use a stock dash switch for the headlamps w/o wiring in an aftermarket HD headlamp harness w. relays (or make your own harness).

Si. The U-Alabama hockey team, known as the Frozen Tide. :yes: Back on topic.............

Amen on that. My son (with the first wife @ 23 years years old when we had him), was always easy. He loved sports as I did, and a baseball glove, football, hockey skates or similar were all he wanted. At 41, second wife, we had two girls. They both inherited their mother's love of jewelry, so they were easy too. Just more expensive. :eek:

A common cause of this is a broken turn signal canceling cam (or broken spring) in the upper steering column. You have to pull the steering wheel, horn insulator ring, and lock plate assembly to get to it. It's plastic and it's common for them to break.

You have to go very deep into the upper column to get to the multi-function switch. Here's a writeup: http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?t=27192

Here's another interesting thread to peruse: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=952132 It says the Archer trucks used "D35 rears(!), with 4.10, or 4.56 gears". Good suspension info in there too.....

Sounds like a busted axle. C-clip D35's went in MJs starting in 1990. Before junking the D35 with an open diff on my 91, I snapped two axles with my open diff D35. Same symptoms/results as you describe. Why don't you edit your signature describing your MJ, i.e. model year, engine, equipment, etc. It's easier than us guessing.

^^ Take the time to run a bead of electricians tape around the universal joint and socket, especially if the plastic hole cover is MIA. Also stuff a rag into the hole. You do not want the socket and/or universal joint falling into the tranny. It's not fun retrieving it. Not at all.

Understand. I'm not saying the Hunter Road Force balancer will completely cure the vibes, but it will eliminate the most common cause - tires. :thumbsup:

C'mon down!

I think you are a procrastinator. No worries, I am too occasionally. :yes: