HOrnbrod

^^ True about the trunk area/floor. I've had a couple of 300Ds overseas and loved them, but never a 220D. Even the 300Ds were slow, but they always got you there and were cheap to operate. It should not be too rusty if it has spent it's entire life in VA. I'd definitely spring for a carfax to check.

After several brake upgrades with the original rear drums then with rear disks, retaining the rear load sensing valve in all cases, I never had to do the FSM bleed procedure for the rear prop valve line. Everyone it seems has plumbed out the original load sensing valve for various reasons; because it's junk, rusted out, supposedly is inop, or because they did not know how to adjust the lever arm w/o using the AMC 85* special tool for the valve arm vs. the valve housing markings. I suspect the latter, especially if any lift is involved. IMHO, I don't think the OP has a hydraulic problem in his case, because I know he knows proper brake bleeding techniques.

For a 1991 one would be looking for a 91 and up XJ (or MJ) for PnP, same connector. If you don't mind cut and splice 1990 and below works fine too.

Yep. Easy to say now that you have the Dorman part number. :rotfl2:

For 91-92 MJ HOs? I doubt that very much. Show me a link.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-12701?seid=srese1&gclid=CNnkncvns7sCFeHm7AodUn0ACA

I had a gallon of Prestone 50/50 I use for occasional top-offs. Saw this thread, tested it, and it was good to -35F. It'll be a cold day in hell if the temp ever gets that low down here.

Sounds like it's not hydralics. Do you have another vacuum check valve you can pop in the booster?

With your setup (4.10s & 31s like mine), a 36T speedo gear will be close, but 37T will be the most accurate. :thumbsup:

This thread brought up some old memories. Back in the 60s and 70s, Volvos had an accessory grille shade for cold weather. It was basically a heavy canvas roll-up retractable window shade mounted in front of the radiator behind the grille. It had a chain running back into the cabin. So on cold mornings you pulled the chain raising the shade to the top of the radiator for a faster warmup, then lower it or raise it back up as you drove to maintain the ideal engine temperature.

^^ This

For the 91-95 HOs the temp gauge sensor is in the left rear cylinder head. The thermostat temp sensor is for the ECU. If your cylinder head port has no threaded hole for the temp sensor, it's most likely from a 96-99 4.0 engine, casting number 0630. Some had the tapped hole, some did not. The raised boss for the sensor hole should still be still there, and you can carefully drill and tap a 1/8" or 1/4" NPT hole (I forget which) through it into the water passage. Common mod for a stroker engine since the 0630 head is generally considered the best flowing head.

Sucks. I'd like to say again that it's 70* down here right now, but it's not. It's down to 35*. Had a little rain is all. :thumbsup:

Probably didn't come with the sticker package, eh Jay? Looks good shipmate. :thumbsup:

We have all run into guys like this a time or two. I know I have. All you can do is chalk it up to a learning experience and move on. Sounds like you have done just that. :cheers:

Just the Renix. When you replace the TPS on an HO, it usually runs up to about 3K RPM or more on first start, then slowly comes down as the ECU massages the reference voltage. IF everything is working right.

Looks great Bob, but how come the guy didn't finish it? Like stated above, you have amazing patience.

For the 24 TPS fault code, check the 5V reference voltage first by unplugging the 3-pin connector and checking across the two outer pins with your meter (one is the 5V ref. signal; the other ground IIRC). Another check: TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines 1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness. 2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (SEE Image). Ohmmeter should be set to 1K-to-1OK scale for this test. 3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated. On the Walmart comment, last week the wife was inside grocery shopping at our local store. When she came out, she saw that some azzhat had busted out the right rear door glass with a freaking hammer. The crackhead also nailed several other vehicles too. I called the cops later and naturally no one saw anything. My liability insurance is $500 deductible, so I didn't even report it. I found a new glass at a nearby yard and picked it up this afternoon for $50. Now I have to figure out how a JKU rear door panel comes off....................

Did I miss something?? :redX:

That's good news. Maybe the Renix computer isn't too picky about the exact MAT resistance and it just needs to see some resistance. Hopefully the HO MAT will hold up under all conditions. 20* up there? It's almost 70* here now. :yes:

That's good info. And most likely your domestic shipping costs are constantly rising as they are here to cover the ever increasing overhead. Like everything else. Such is life.

He's in Canada. That's not a particularly outlandish price up here... You're right, that's not a bad price. It retailed for a bit over $50 when they were plentiful. Shipping seems a bit high, but maybe that's how it is with Postes Canada. :dunno:

Yes, the ground wire off the sender is tied to pin A of the 3-pin connector and goes to the tail lamp ground point. Test pin A of the connector to ground for continuity. Pin assignment: C B A - C is 12V, B is output to fuel gauge, C is ground.

Guess you know that the MAT sensor for the MPI engines?

Noted and corrected on original. Good catch.