HOrnbrod

That's what I always do because that's what the FSM says to do. But I've read also the 6 o'clock position is okay too. I don't think it really matters.

Less than attractive? That's saying it nicely. :yes: You could always sell hot dogs out of it.

It almost looks like a car/truck like the El Caminos and Rancheros. But this bad boy is mostly all truck, not car. Wish I could go see it.

Doubt you will find a regulation factory thermostat at the auto parts store. Part # 83501426 is the one you need.

The 88 and 89 models are basically the same Renix truck if they are similarly equipped. The only possible exception I can think of would be differences in the various trim levels. The 1990 models had some major changes like tranny shaft spline count changes and a few other things, but the big change came with the 1991 OBD1 HO models, a completely different animal.

Look through Willy's (reson46) "Wife's MJ" build thread. He details the bed bob and did a great job on it. http://comancheclub.com/topic/8516-wifes-mj/

There were no factory lights supplied for the optional MJ sport bar, according to my local oldtime Jeep dealership. There were dealer installed lights available when ordered; either the factory supplied Marchal or ROL lights as on the bumper, or lighting of the customer's choice. Most of the dealer installed lights were the crappy ROL lights, more commonly called Rust Out Lights.

Overflow.

Yes, all the 95 and 96 models I looked at had the spacer plate.

Looks like that one is for an S10 Jim. Notice the roof angles of the MJ cab and topper are not the same and the height of the topper is less than the cab height. I had an S10 topper for awhile and it fit just like that one. But a great score for $20. :cheers: Image Not Found

This is easier: http://pueblo.craigslist.org/cto/4266750545.html Very cool. Likee! You going to take a look Jim?

Even better get an ADDCO 570 1-1/8" dia. MJ bar. Much better than the ZJ V8 bar it replaced. Couple it with a a quick ratio ZJ steering gear box and it's flatline.

The 91 has a one-of-a-kind pass-through firewall connector for the engine harness, so you will have to adapt the firewall to the 01 harness connector. The pedal assembly mounting will be different since you will be going from a manual tranny to auto so it might require drilling some new mounting holes and use of nutserts. The AW4 transmission harness through the firewall will also be different. Probably will be some other differences for mechanical and electrical firewall pass-throughs but none should be major. The 01 cross-member should bolt into the 91 for the AW4 with no modifications.

Only if you're stupid and don't know any better.

Jest ordered the JK Trucklite LED head lamp kit from Northridge. Not much more than the Hella e-codes and a harness would be and a whole lot less work. I'll post up some comparison pics against the Hella MJ when I get them in.

Make sure each end of the blend door cable is anchored with the clamps. If one or both ends are loose around the cable sheath the cable will not operate the blend door fully open and closed. Also pop the cable off the blend door, then move the cable in and out using the temp control. Also reach down and manually open and close the blend door where the cable connects to makes sure it travels to full closed and open. Would be a good idea to lube the cable too if it's hard to move.

Saw that thread Rob, I've been looking too. :yes: I think what I'm going to do is order a set of the round LEDs for the JK then do a side-by-side with my MJ and the Hellas. The stock JK lights really suck, about the same as the MJ with the original sealed beams.

That's exactly what I did today with the JK in a big abandoned parking lot. We don't get these opportunities often and I wanted to see how it did on the ice. Also had the wife force a few power slides with it since she's the one who drives it mostly. She didn't do too well.

Looks good Rob and thanks for posting the pics. Now you have to do the city lights with the Hella housings too - I use them all the time. I'm about 1" away from pulling the trigger on the TruckLite LEDs. I'd just keep the harness and the new fuse box I put in too. Only thing that's holding me back is I haven't seen the LEDs in person, and it's tough to imagine anything better than the Hella Ecodes. Have you (or anyone else) seen both to compare?

I have to admit I do like the looks of the XJ rear bumper on an MJ; it looks cleaner. It would be even nicer if the standard MJ hitch could be tied in as it is on the "step" of the step bumper.

Congrats. That looks like the factory Laredo trim package, a rare MJ. Check to see what the 8th digit of your VIN is. T = Comanche Laredo 4001-5000 Lb. U = Comanche Laredo, Metric Ton 5001-6000 Lb. EDIT: Never mind. I now see the Laredo emblem on the side. :thumbsup:

Moved to the "Pub" since it's not tech yet.

Disagree. When I installed Explorer disk brakes on my D35 originally years ago, I kept the rear load sensing valve (LSV) and the original MJ distribution block on the master cylinder. I also added about a 2" lift at the same time and increased the length of the LSV rod to the axle by the same amount as the lift. I had great brakes and rear brake bias - the rears never locked up first even in a panic stop. A few years later I swapped in a 96 booster/master, and a D44 rear w. disks, and a little more lift. Rear brake bias remained the same, only more responsive brakes because of the new dual diaphragm booster/master swap. Everyone tells you to dump the LSV; I never will as long as it's working as it should when I'm hauling a load in the bed. If it ceases to function I'll replace it with one from a Toyota or something else. I consider a rear LSV necessary on any pickup that hauls heavy loads occasionally. The main reason folks dump the valve is because it's rotted out or doesn't function anymore (good reason to dump it); OR, it's not adjusted properly. That's probably the main reason it doesn't function correctly. If you don't have the FSM, below is the LSV adjustment procedure. Ignore the 85* gauge, it's not necessary, read between the lines. Align the valve shaft flat at the six o'clock position (90*) and it works as advertised with rear disk brakes (and the original drums). http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairguides/Jeep-Wagoneer-Commando-Cherokee-1984-1998/BRAKE-OPERATING-SYSTEMS/Height-Sensing-Proportioning-Valve/_/P-0900c152800aa103

That's it. Must be a Nissan-only axle. Strange........