HOrnbrod

1991 was the first year for OBD1 and there were subtle differences between 1991 and the later OBD1 harnesses. I don't know them all, but one is the firewall connector mating the underhood and dash harnesses. The 91 was one of a kind, so mating the underhood harness to a 92 dash harness for example will require cutting and splicing connectors.

Ah okay, so you actually did mean the body is leaning. I did about the same lift and there was no leaning, just front axle shift about 3/4" to the left. A Teraflex adjustable trackbar took care of centering the axle. Have you checked the caster angle on both sides since the lift? I had to shim those out also to get it back in the ballpark.

Then you probably have this one below? And yes, they started using these around the late 80's and are all you can get now (except at the yard). Just last week I found the solution to a high idle problem (~1200 RPM) on my 91. Turned out to be a split short rubber hose that connected the vacuum check valve to the hard plastic line going to the intake manifold. It idles now nice much smoother @ 800 RPM. Image Not Found

Image Not Found Try sucking on the vacuum IN port with your mouth and a piece of hose to make sure the canister is not open and leaking internally.

GrizzzzzzBear, sure would like to see the "Much Documented Proof of this FACT". Please provide.

What do you mean by lean? Leaning to me is one side sits lower than the other. Do you mean front axle centering between the wheel wells? If so, have you measured the offset?

After the engine starts and the fuel pump relay switches in the ballast resistor to limit the fuel pump supply voltage, the pump runs constantly until you turn the ignition off. Because the ballast resistor is a current limiter and lowers the supply voltage to the pump, it runs slower and quieter. This prolongs the life of the pump. The fuel pump doesn't "take what it needs"; it runs at a fixed RPM depending on it's available supply voltage. And I have no clue what you are referring to with AC motors. And yes, they started using the resistor initially because of excessive pump noise complaints, but an added benefit is that the motor doesn't have to work as hard thus extending it's life. Jeeps are not the only vehicles that incorporate a ballast resistor in the fuel pump supply circuit. But you do what you want to mate.

Look on the Body ID plate on the firewall for the paint code then match it up online. Courtesy of fiatslug87: For '88-'90 the plates are located on the firewall above the brake boster.

moving east. The line of storms was from the Great Lakes all the way south to the Gulf of Mexico. Twas a lovely evening. It's passed through my area now, and amazingly I never lost power. I did lose a few trees out back, big ole useless gum trees that I was planning on taking out eventually. A few tornadoes touched down here and there north and south of me on the way through. Everyone doing okay?

Probably true, but maybe if they had installed ballast resistors in 1987 the pump would have lasted 25 years? We'll never know..........

The 1.3 ohm fuel pump ballast resistor is a high power wire-wound resistor placed in series with the fuel pump 12V supply and acts as a current limiting device for the pump. This makes the fuel pump run at a lower RPM, run quieter, and prolongs it's life as it doesn't have to work as hard after the engine starts. It's supposed to get hot, that's why it's mounted in a porcelain heat sink.

From the JKS shackle installation instructions on an XJ: But for an MJ I'd reverse them with the decal facing the rear. For the Zerk fitting you could always drill and tap a 1/4x20 hole on the other side for another Zerk fitting.

Here's what JKS says about their own "Boomerang style" XJ shackle if this is the shackle you all are referring to:

This is true. I found this out the hard way. When I first put exhaust headers on, I needed to extend the wires about 6" as the exhaust bung was too far away for the stock O2 sensor harness to reach the connector. Since my O2 sensor was almost new, I soldered in extension wires using 50/50 rosin core, heat shrunk the solder joints and hooked everything back up. It ran fine but would intermittently switch from open loop to closed loop, then back while driving. I could see it on my A/F meter. I found the above quote somewhere looking for the cause, and the light bulb went on. The fix was to replace the MJ/XJ O2 sensor with one from a ZJ; the harness was long enough to make the distance w/o splicing. There are also manufactured O2 harness extensions you can buy for both 3-wire and 4-wire sensors if you can't find an O2 sensor harness long enough for your application.

Yes, it gets hot enough to burn the crap out of you. Check it with your ohmmeter - should read a little over an ohm. As far as your other thread, I still think you have too much injector. Get a fuel pressure gauge at Autozone or somewhere and check pressure at the rail with vacuum and w/o vacuum to the regulator.

I think you're right Bo. Kind of like the MJ dually here. Here's another in Caracas, not so pretty though: http://www.adoos.com.ve/postx/968f9fb4904aeebc8f1c6098eeeb5d7f/vendo_jeep_comanche_doble_cabina_picup_a%C3%91o_1991

~620 to be exact. :yes:

Pure carnage mate. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=3cjg_t6gAi8

Is the manifold opening also 68mm?

I did this a few years ago to replace the worn out nylon wiper linkage bushings and it was pretty straightforward coming out. The hard part for me was getting it back in. It's very tight quarters and will only go back in the same way it came out. So observe how it comes out to save yourself some time and aggravation.

This might help: http://comancheclub.com/topic/18239-mjxj-wiper-bushing-install/?hl=wiper

Jon Kelly here: http://www.kelleyswip.com/

The cruise control should shut itself off if there is insufficient vacuum, so I think it's coincidence - probably a bad actuator. Do your HVAC controls default to the windshield when going up a hill w/o the vacuum reservoir? And, since the reservoir is MIA, the inline vacuum check valve on the accessory line going to the cruise actuator might be missing too allowing vacuum pressure back into the intake manifold.

The old AMC canisters in the 80's (p/n 33002870) had a replaceable filter on the bottom like in your picture. You could also change out the activated charcoal at the same time. Unfortunately they are now obsolete unless you find one at the junkyard. The ones used now, p/n 53030500, are sealed units and not serviceable. When they don't function anymore you replace it, ~ $30-$40 aftermarket. Depending on conditions, they are normally good for ~90K miles. Mine started smelling at about 100K miles and I replaced it. 53030500 33002870

He sure is. He's what you call a real trouper.