HOrnbrod

^^ Classless fool.

Use skinny tires. Like this unstoppable 1920's era Dodge 2WD sedan. Video courtesy of the Cruiser-man:

^^ YOU can be that someone. :yes:

Yes, it could. Were the CO and HC readings normal? If so, the exhaust leak is the likely culprit.

^^ Are these your parts?

Do all those old AMC units have hands inside them trying to get out?

I'm saying the same thing as dasbulliwagen. Donor wrecked OBD1 or 2 XJ, YJ, etc. for the HO conversion, and the engine you can afford.

^^ This is the way to go. 91 and up. Junk the Renix stuff.

I'd install it in the rubber supply line between the tank and the hard fuel line to keep the supply line as full as possible. Also use fuel injection line hose clamps, not the standard hose clamps.

It's a module and looks like this: Image Not Found

I did on mine when installing the 99+ intake. NOT Renix though. :yes: FWIW, it didn't help much.

So are the Swedes. Every Christmas when the whole family got together and had consumed too much holiday "spirits", the Swedes and Brits in the family would get into fist fights, because the Brits always accused the Swedes of supplying Hitler with ball bearings in WW2. Ah, memories. :rotfl2:

I can relate to that. Growing up in VT, my mother (Linnea) and her parents (Claus and Olga) were from Sweden. My father (English) and I used to get cussed out in Swedish whenever we did something wrong in their eyes. Which was quite often. :yes: Yumpin yiminy, we had no idea what they were saying. Whenever they wanted to converse w/o us knowing what was said, they would all go into encrypted Swedish mode. At least they didn't name me after my grandfather.................

2WD w. auto AW4 transmission? Inside the AW4 tail extension there is a bushing in front of the oil seal that the drive shaft slip yoke rides in. I was getting similar harmonic vibes as you are, though not as severe. It turned out to be an egged out bushing causing it. It's about a ~$4 part and is available from most online transmission sites. http://comancheclub.com/topic/33041-2wd-aw4-extension-housing-bushing-replacement/#p344650

Could be many things, but the first thing I'd do is check your fuel pressure at the rail Schrader valve with a fuel pressure gauge. Should be 31psi / 39psi w. and w/o the vacuum line on the regulator. You can rent a gauge at Autozone or similar if you don't have one.

That sounds like it looks great! any pictures? I think I'll do the same. I've been converting bolts and screws to stainless as I go Yeah, but I probably went overboard. Besides the valve cover, I replaced the bolts on the oil pan, tranny pan, diff cover, and every visible bolt that didn't run away under the hood. :yes:

Excellent. :cheers: I wish everyone would do this.......... I sent the cover out for powder coating many years ago - didn't do it myself. It's held up well, no discolorations at all, still looks the same. It cost me $100 total back then. The cover is cast aluminum, and ideally a polished alloy cover would be great, but it's so labor intensive I'm not about to do it. I like a clean engine compartment, and it looks pretty good, but it's no show truck, just my driver.

In that case I'd probably go with the V8 ZJ front coils, #2934.

He has a 2.8.

Should be no worries mate. I haven't done the 180* wrong insertion with the distributor (yet), but I've sure missed a tooth or three a few too many times. Happens to everyone, and it's not fatal. :cheers:

^^ Check the 7.5A fuse labeled GAUGES in your fuse panel, fuse #17. Check for voltage on both sides.

Bricks don't flow at all Adam. So I'd reword your statement to "the 97+ mirrors have way too much flow for our trucks". :yes:

How about you spend the $15 and let us know. :P I did spend $10 and am letting you know. The description did not state the outer sleeve hex size so I took a chance. It's 15mm / 5/8"; my shock nut is 17mm. So with my OME shocks it's useless. However the inner sleeve fits well over the shock stem oval top, so it can be used to hold the shock shaft. So it wasn't a total waste of $$..........