HOrnbrod

The Nippon Denso 136A alternator was used on 91 and up Mopar vehicles and was regulated by the ECU. To use the ND alt on his 86 rig, he would have to swap over the mounting bracketry and externally regulate it. Hard to do with his 2.8 engine. Best bet is to have a shop rebuild your existing Delco alt for more amps.

Out of curiosity I checked my 91 FSM. There is no such 3-relay block in that location for either the MJs or XJs. I would have guessed the two relays shown in your pic are for the power locks. The other maybe part of the security system?

No, I can not. I have never tried the Moog Upcountry progressive coils and the OMEs on the same vehicle to compare the two. You'll have to do a search to see if anyone has - sorry.

Jake, I think excessive amp draw on the blower motor (or any motor) is mostly caused by dry bearings and worn out brushes, especially on startup. It's easy enough to test using a multimeter in series using the 10A AMPS jack. I've never replaced the brushes in the blower motor, don't even know if you can, but have lubed the bearings with a drop or two of sewing machine oil and it knocks the startup amp draw down 25%-50%. This especially applies to starter motors too, especially worn brushes.

What "grinding"? No grinding necessary for a stock cam. Just pull the dizzy, rotate 180* according to the procedure, then see if it fires up.

Then you must have a Renix era MJ. You'll have to use an elbow fitting for clearance to adapt the gauge to the Renix rail. It would be a good idea to add your year and model specifics to your signature so we don't have to guess what you are driving. :thumbsup: http://comancheclub.com/topic/44810-stalling-out-craziness/page-5 My valve cover is silver powder coated with the ribs polished natural.

Looks like you are 180* out then.

Check crank and cam gear alignment on your 4.0 as below, Then index the distributor using this procedure. Check your distributor wiring order twice. http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html

And yes, I have one too. From Hesco.

Thank you. The 930 (now 2930) OME front coils (160lb spring rate) with new stock isolators netted me 2-1/2" over what it was, and I looked about to be the same as you are now. Another option is the OME 2933 coils (140lb spring rate) for a bit softer ride, but not sure if you would get the same amount of lift. Your positive caster angle will decrease maybe 2*-3*, but an additional 1/8" thick shim packed behind the LCA will correct the caster back to normal. You may or may not need an adjustable track bar. My axle shifted about 3/4", so I got one and corrected the shift. I order directly from ARB USA in WA since I have a track record there and get a little bit off as compared to the vendor's prices. Northridge 4x4 also has good ARB/OME promotions occasionally. I picked up a full set of shocks for my JK at almost 50% off during one of their promos.

GS MT springs on the rear, OME 930 coils up front (~2"-3" lift) Front Shocks: (In order of my preference) OME Nitrocharger Sport 60046 Light Load (13.15"- 22.24") OME Nitrocharger N35 (13.70"-22.36") OME Nitrocharger N39, (13.46 - 22.13) Rear Shocks: (In order of my preference) OME Nitrocharger N40L (15.6"-25.8") (ZJ shock, hard to find) OME Nitrocharger N30 (14.4"-24.3")* (96-05 Nissan Terrano R20) OME Nitrocharger N95 (14.13" - 23.58") (Toyota Land Cruiser) I don't think any other coil spring or shock compares to ARB / OME products. Of course, I haven't tried them all, but tried quite a few. Looking at your rig, a pair of OME 930 coils (now called OME 2930 coils) up front with new isolators will have you sitting pretty. :cheers:

Not so with the HOs. But since I don't have a Renix FSM Electrical manual, I'll take your word for that. Oh wait, I do, here: https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=c40904cfda278a46&id=C40904CFDA278A46!115 Thanks, I'll check it out.

If you're selling it, post it up in the Classifieds - For Sale forum. With an asking price.

Repeat - look in the Electrical FSM that corresponds to the year of your rig. If you don't have the Electrical FSM for your rig, get one. Using the FSM wiring diagram, trace the VM + sensing lead out to it's source, remove it from that source, and run a new lead from that point to the nearest location that's the electrical equivalent of the battery positive terminal. Running a new sensing lead all the way to the VM input terminal is, uh, dumb.

I didn't notice any difference good or bad. :dunno:

I have two 10-bladers in now. As far as the year they changed from 8 to 10 blades, not sure. From 97 - 01 there were three separate part numbers used, and I don't know the difference between them. There's a thread on NAXJA somewhere posted by a guy who sells a 3-fan aftermarket conversion kit and he did some CFM measurements. According to him, two 10-blade XJ fans pulled more air than the 3-fan rig he was selling. He justified buying his kit though by claiming that the two XJ fans pulled more amps than his 3-fan kit did. :dunno: So what? I'll take more CFM any day.

I think it's worse here. On CC you can offer a part up for free, then the cheap "person" who wants it asks if you could ship it free also. True story. :shake:

^^ This. Had the same problem on the headlamp and dual electric fan circuits, and traced the voltmeter + sensing lead back to the PDC fuse block using the FSM wiring diagram. Removed it, and rerouted it to the big positive mains cable that feeds the PDC. Now it doesn't fluctuate at all. Of course it's wired differently on a Renix, buy you can do the same thing. I want the VM to read the overall state of the battery, not drop or flicker whenever it sees a load.

:rotfl2: Yes, I actually was, just to do something different. A local shop specialized doing this and I was a frequent visitor going over plans for the first known (to me and them) slammed MJ. But the plan didn't last long and I came to my senses. The tube bumper wasn't factory; it was an aftermarket unit manufactured by Genuine Steel.

Do your backup lights come on with IGN ON and shifter to REVERSE?

^^ Doesn't get it.

They are cool, and I've ordered a set too. I usually use double nuts on the shaft instead of the crappy Nylock nuts too to make things a little easier.

A lot of shocks don't have the Allen recess in the shaft..............

I know what works guys, just asking if anyone has used this tool. I'm all for making life easier, especially trying to work two tools for a 10% / Full Turn under the master cylinder. That oval shaped nub on top of the shock shaft isn't there for a crescent wrench..........

Anyone used this or similar to remove the shock stud nut? http://www.quadratec.com/products/92810_202.htm