HOrnbrod

I agree with the above. It's not only the sway bar thickness that affects the handling, it's the flexibility, or lack thereof. I tried the ADDCO 29mm bar up front for awhile, but it was way too stiff. The handling was bad, and the ride was harsh. Way too much rigidity for our trucks. I then went back to the 28mm stock XJ bar and it's just about right. I don't blame you for trying a modified WJ bar, but I don't think you will like it.

Okay Nori Kudos, I think I understand now. So if I wanted a simple headlight ON alarm as the original poster asked, should I just plug in the blue alarm module on the left, or wire up a relay kludge similar to the system on the right? Image Not Found

It don't? Maybe you can put your parking, signal, and dash illumination lights on other relays and junk your headlight switch entirely. :rotfl2:

NLA on new blue chime modules. And yeah, the headlamp buzzer is annoying, but I prefer that little annoyance as compared to a dead battery in the morning...........

Here's a pic I found on the web. The empty white connector on the left is where the chime module plugs into. In this crappy pic you can see the blue chime module plugged in.

I'll take a pic tomorrow and post it up.

Left side of the fuse box - is there a black or blue module plugged in up close to the kick panel? Or an empty connector?

An additional relay is not necessary in this case - headlamps draw no amps when shut off. Your MJ originally came with a chime alarm module with a headlamps ON warning when you turn the ignition off. This module is either missing, broken, and/or does not have the headlamp ON alarm feature (there were two modules, one w/o the headlamp ON feature). Just get the blue module as described in my previous post, plug it in, and you will know immediately your headlamps are on when the key is turned off.

Hey Rich. How they hanging? :yes:

No. Only the 91's and up unfortunately. I edited the original post.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/35232-buzzer-to-remind-you-to-turn-headlights-out/?hl=buzzer&do=findComment&comment=353200 I have some spares if you need one.

I'm glad they didn't. XJs were fairly top heavy even w/o a lift. The soccer Moms who drove a lot of them would be rolling them all over the place.

The Actron CP9129 Chrysler adapter cable also comes with a power cord for the scanner that's supposed to plug into the cigarette lighter socket. It does not fit, so I just cut it off and soldered on a couple of alligator clips and used the vehicle battery. The scanner will not communicate with the vehicle DTC connector using it's internal battery only. You have to use the supplied power cable because the scanner has to be on the same ground plane as the vehicle. Took awhile to figure that one out. :hmm:

I got the Chrysler adapter cable for my scanner and have been playing around with it today. Not only does it read and reset fault codes, but it has a lot of neat diagnostic features too. Here's some of the stuff it does; I've tested all of these so far: Battery temperature Charging voltage A/C clutch relay operation Brake switch operation Actuator tests (checks the operation of the ECU controlled relays) Idle speed test (varies engine RPM) Simulates closed / open loop operation ASD relay operation & shut-down voltage Sensor output voltage tests (IAT, CPS, AIT, MAP, etc.) And it does a whole lot more I haven't tried out yet. The scanner has to be programmed for the particular Chrysler vehicle year and engine under test via drop-down menus. The menus go all the way back to 1989, so I assume if your MJ has the 6-pin diagnostic connector like below, the diagnostic procedures will work on the later Renix junk too. The Chrysler adapter cable plugs into the diagnostic connector, then mates with the Actron scanner data port. There are also adapter cables available for older Ford and GM vehicles too. This is going to be a great tool for troubleshooting. It looks like it can do most everything the DRB tester can do. EDIT: The Renix junk does not have this 6-pin connector. There are diagnostic connectors on the Renix, but they are only for the dealership DRB analyzer with the Renix interface card. So you Renix guys are SOL.

That was a matter of cost-saving economics, not stellar engineering. Just like creating the AMX out of a sectioned Javelin. And I DO love the AMX's.

Again, let's see what you have.

Did you crawl under it before you bought it? Native FL truck? Pics would help..................

Yep. Using the same sender. The Zone calls it a switch on their site but it's not.

Yes. Too bad Bo Ryan had to whine about the officiating at the end. Was disappointing.

Good point. That too. :yes:

You will never reach 100% mate. Never. Been trying for thirteen years. Just when you think you are getting close, another Oh-crap bites you in the azz. But you're lookin' good. :cheers:

Man, two heavyweights duking it out back and forth. 31-all at the half, and as far as I can see, Duke has the inside advantage and the Badgers are nailing from the outside. As scripted. I think fouls will become important in the second half...............

Rated at 35A, 10A more than my Spal controller. You need to find the install instructions to see what kind of temp sensor it needs. Hopefully it's not proprietary.

It's already there; you don't need an additional temp sensor. How many amps is your Derale controller rated at? Do you have the instructions with it? I imagine it operates similarly to the Spal.

I seen that did you just splice into the sensor? I upgraded to gauge from idiot light have new sensor just need to install Yep, just paralleled the temp sensor output wire to the fan controller.