HOrnbrod

You should invest in an Electrical Factory Service Manual specific to the year of your truck, whatever that is. There's an 88 electrical manual you can download HERE.

^^ 87 was the last year for the black tail lamps from the factory. The chrome lamps went to 89.

Try this: Test Power Brake Booster If the pedal feels "hard" while the engine is running, the booster isn't operating correctly. If you suspect the booster is defective, do not attempt to disassemble or repair the power booster. Doing so is unsafe and will void your warranty. Test 1 With the engine off, pump the brake pedal to remove any residual vacuum in the booster. Hold pressure on the pedal while you start the engine. When the engine starts, the pedal should drop about a 1/4", this indicates that the booster is working properly. Test 2 Run the engine a couple of minutes. Turn the engine off and press the pedal several times slowly. The first pump should be fairly low. The second and third should become slightly firmer. This indicates an airtight booster. Test 3 Start the engine and press the brake pedal, then stop the engine with the pedal still pressed. If the pedal does not drop after holding the pressure on the pedal for 30 seconds, the booster is airtight. Inspect the Check Valve Disconnect the vacuum hose where it connects to the intake manifold. Do not disconnect the vacuum line from the booster. Air should not flow when pressure is applied, but should flow when suction is applied. If air flows in both directions or there is no air flow, the valve needs to be replaced. Verify Enough Vacuum Check the operating vacuum pressure when the engine is at normal operating temperature. There should be a minimum of 18 in. of vacuum. Vacuum may be increased by properly tuning the engine, checking for vacuum leaks and blockages in vacuum lines.

Yep. The fool's not wearing any eye protection. :yes:

There were only two MJ tail lamps only in 88; the common all red and the chrome like the below. There was nothing special for the Olympic edition if that's what you mean.

Check out the bunny ranches in North Vegas.

...........if someone has one in nice shape. Thanks..........

The hose circled in red below has fallen out of the dash. One end connects to the discharge vent on the lower dash panel, the other end connects somewhere up behind the dash. I've spent hours reaching and feeling around behind the dash to find the nipple or whatever it connects to and can not find it. Does anyone know, of do I have to pull the dash out? I would not care, except that whenever I run the A/C it eventually fogs up the instrument cluster clear cover.

Nope. As long as you use steel shims at the correct degree angle you need.

36mm.

Was the accident investigated on the scene by the police? Was the elderly woman charged with anything? Did you sign a medical release?

It will fit, but the 23.5 gal. tank is deeper, so you will probably need new straps. Also the fuel sender is different; the 23.5 gal float arm is longer so it won't indicate accurately, and the 16 gal pickup may not reach the bottom of the deeper tank. The float arm may even hang up on the new tank interior baffles; I don't know. It's up to you to decide if the extra 7.5 gal capacity is worth it. It's worth a shot - go for it.

Too many questions. It's much easier to massage the front lift than the rear. So do whatever your going to do in the rear end first with the correct shocks, SOA or whatever. See how it sits, then match it in the front with lift coils, ACOS, whatever. Then correct the pinion / driveline angles with rear wedges if needed, extended driveshaft, adj. track bar, adj. LCAs, etc. If you go SOA you will need all of these parts up front.

EDIT: According to the 87-90 parts manual, MJ FUEL TANKS & PUMPS COMANCHE, the 88 LWB never came with the 18 gallon tank from the factory, only 16 and 23.5 tanks.

He lives on Guam, and that's really not an outrageous price. The shop he's dealing with could well be the only place on the island that replaces windshields. I had one replaced on my 66 Mustang GT when living there and it was well over $300, and that was several years ago. We thought very seriously about retiring there at one time but the cost of living is ridiculous. It was higher than Hawaii at the time.

I understand. I added the visor a few years after it was painted. The guy that painted it matched the body color perfectly. A couple of years later I added the cowl hood. Went back to the same guy for painting and it's a bit darker than the body color, but I guess I'm the only one that can see it because I'm anal that way. :yes: You could always bring your painter a sample panel and have him try to match the blue.

The visor looks good up there. :thumbsup: I think it would look even better painted the blue body color, as well as the hood. You'll still have plenty of black to offset it; the flares, bumpers, tube doors, and roll bar.

MJ Sunroofs were not offered by the factory, but were available as a dealer installed option.

Thought you had already decided on wheels. Obviously you have to choose, then call the mfg. for the wheel specs and go from there. 10" of tread doesn't allow much wiggle room w/o slashing and hacking. But of course you know that. Good luck.

Have you picked out your wheels yet? What is the offset - BS specs for these? Same bolt pattern or will you be using adapters? I'm thinking of doing this also using 18" JK wheels. Tire height should not be a concern since most street 31" tires are near 31" and tires that fit 17" and 18" wheels are only about 1" to 1-1/2" taller. As compared to JK wheels / tires.

For the HOs, the engine has to be running to measure the O2 sensor 12V heater voltage since the voltage comes from the ASD (Auto Shutdown) relay. I would ASSume the Renix is the same as you don't want the O2 sensor heater coil energized w/o the engine running. But it's Renix, so who's knows - they are not logical. Try disconnecting the O2 connector, start the engine, and check for 12V across the heater supply and return pins, harness side. Also measure the resistance across the same pins while disconnected, engine off, on the sensor side. The O2 heater coil resistance should read ~5 ohms.

Guys, the pic I posted was just part number reference for the OP. I don't recommend these u-joints either; Spicer joints are the only way to go.

Not mine. I stole it. :rotfl2: