HOrnbrod

Is this Tinken "reorg" like most of the others, caused by the Unions driving up labor costs so high that domestic US companies can't compete anymore? :shake: It's become all too common now.............

Way to go Joe! I've always liked this truck with all the tasteful modifications you have done. Keep 'em coming.

You have dumped all codes from memory (except the A/C stuff since you don't have it) by doing the hard reset and are starting from scratch on the ECU factory settings. If any of the other previous should reappear, it's most likely a legitimate code and should be investigated. Time frame varies in my experience, but if nothing appears in the next 500 miles you should be good as far as the ECU is concerned.

Yes. But continue to monitor for these should they appear again: 21: O2 sensor or circuit 14: MAP sensor 47: battery under voltage 51: O2 lean mixture.

The ad didn't last long. Did you get it Yella?

Good old Lord Beckbury. http://comancheclub.com/user/25867-lord-beckbury/ Not a bad price considering the pristine condition and rarity.

If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at http://www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price. Seconded. And thirded............

I can't believe that ratty cable was (and still is?) the sole source for your engine ground. Is this typical Renix? At a minimum I'd replace that mesh cable with at least a 6AWG copper cable with properly sized crimped/soldered brass terminals, plus a couple more engine ground cables to the front clip and the fender wells. With all the Renix sensors depending on a couple of ohms to work, you need a real solid engine ground plane installed.

I do it just to confuse you Gog. :rotfl2: Found the procedure on the interweb, and cleared it with Hesco years ago. It puts a load on the ECU and dumps all the adaptive memory. It remains if you just let it sit overnight or whatever with the battery disconnected. It does work. Try it yourself.

Clear the codes doing the below and start from scratch with the ECU: Clearing error codes and removing residual memory 1. Disconnect the POSITIVE battery terminal and touch it to ground for 30 seconds. (This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory. 2. Reconnect the Battery Cable 3. Turn Ignition Switch to the "ON" position but DO NOT start the engine 4. Turn Headlight "ON" 5. Turn Headlights "OFF" 6. Turn Ignition Key "OFF" The PCM Adaptive memory has now been flashed, or erased from the PCM.

Yessss... I would HERE you go Jake - the real deal.

Si. 1992, w/o RFI 6-Cyl. Eng., Man. Trans. 5602 7396 1 XJMJX1

First thing: What's the p/n of the ECU? It should be 5601xxxx. ECU's don't care if it has A/C or not. They care about engine, transmission, and the country it's in. Oddly enough, Canada has their own ECU p/n's, just as Europe and the US do based on their respective emission regulations. It's best if we can ID what ECU you have now before doing anything else.

A motor is happiest when the suck and blow are open enough to compliment each other. Sounds like you have good suckage maximus getting strangled by exhaustus minimus. I good header like a Borla, and 2.5" pipe all the way out would balance it out nicely me thinks. Of course, you have to go by what the dyno says, and I don't mean the unreliable butt dyno.

The 91 and 92 sport truck decals were different. The 91's had the same size decals for both the LWB and SWB models. The available colors were blue/silver and red/silver. The 92's had a similar swoosh design, but different sets for the LWB and SWB models. Part numbers are: 1991 Blue/Silver, 4636344-5 (L & R) Red/Silver, 4636342-3 1992, Red/Silver Only SWB, 4713404-5 LWB, 4613406-7

Interesting reading: http://mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?6355-4-0L-99-intake-manifold-swap-with-REAL-DYNO-NUMBERS!

Forget how to post pics properly Sam? I see just links..............

I don't know. The pic is from the 1986 parts manual. The 87 and up did not have the bar-type carrier; they were all winches.

Don't do it then. :P

Is 12HP worth it? http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=387

For the D44 axle the carrier break is 3.73 which normally means a new carrier. But, you can keep your existing carrier by using "thick" 4.88 gears; they are available. I did this going from 3.55 to 4.10 because I had a new limited slip carrier and wanted to use it. Has worked well for many years now. For the D30 I think you are SOL because I've never seen "thick" 4.88 gears for them. They may exist though...... :dunno:

No problem with the heads after the 2012 models. :thumbsup:

Me too. That's my wallpaper:

I had a buzzer module go wonky once and it caused all kinds of weird electrical stuff until I replaced it. Pull it out and see if the other stuff goes away.

^^ This.