HOrnbrod

This one. I'm calling it that because your post and Dirty's blended together in my mind and I associated the names and photos respectively. Or something. Those are Snowflake Wheels, also called Teardrop. I had those a long time ago in chrome. I actually liked these wheels once. :shake: Not now.........

What did you do with the MJ load sensing valve? Bypass it?

^^ Those are normally called Lace XJ wheels and they came in several colors.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/12083-electrical-manual/

Which wheels are you calling the honeycomb rims?

Nope. The link works fine.

Si.

These? Or these?

The clutch pedal p/n is 53004363. It was used on 86-90 XJ/MJ models. Good luck finding a new one.

Personally I think they are hideous, but whatever floats your boat, go for it. I'm all for doing your own thing. :cheers:

That's unlikely but I suppose it's possible over a long period of time. I'd clean both surfaces as directed above, then get some thicker gasket material and make your own gasket using the stat housing as a template. Assemble with a thin even layer of silicon on both sides of the gasket, and let sit at least overnight before adding coolant. This should work for you.

I replaced the original thick felt-like splash guard with the newer thin rubber guard used on 94 and above XJs, p/n 55174736. It's a lot tougher and doesn't sag nearly as much as the old one. I like to keep crap out of the engine compartment and it really helps keeping water off the alternator.

Wow.................. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Comanche-Laredo-/201667318389?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2ef44f1275:g:YAYAAOSw-kdX1tjT&item=201667318389

rent a set guages from autozone or similar and connect them on the fuel rail test port turn on ignition and gauge pressure should read about 30psi if the pump is any good

Install a nutsert in the hole in the floor sized appropriately. Then run a bolt up though the nutsert from underneath and snug it up tight against the nutsert. Use this as the stud for the bench seat bracket.

:cheers:

Like everyone else, there's no way I can see flat towing a mile with the tranny in neutral will hurt anything. I'd first eliminate the cable, starter, and solenoid by shorting a battery jumper cable from the + battery post to the starter solenoid and see if the engine turns over in neutral.

Do you have the rubber splash guard under your engine? If so, it'll probably be lying at the lowest sagging point. That's where my dropped hardware usually ends up. And if you can't find it, just replace it. And pick up a telescoping magnetic pickup tool. Handy tool to have for things like this. :thumbsup:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101344

The problem isn't the bearing; it's how to press it out. It's a common bearing - check out NAXJA. There are tons of threads on this topic, but I've yet found one where someone actually pressed out and replaced the bearing successfully.

Couple of things to check: Did you re-adjust your rear brake shoes with the star wheel so they just barely drag when rotating the wheel? Did you check the booster vacuum check valve?

I'm jealous.............. A full front clip with working lights & fogs, grille, & bumper would be nice too. :cheers:

Suggest you install the other pump in the washer tank and run the fluid hoses and wiring into the engine bay and cap them off. 'Cause when the single washer pump craps out (it will, mine did) you have to pull the fender liner, etc. to change it. With the 2nd pump plumbing and wiring in the engine bay it makes it a lot simpler. I'm all for saving myself unnecessary work. :yes:

Wow - most excellent! Looks like a how-to pic from landscaper's digest. Love the color combinations on the house too. I think I'll steal them - it's house painting time - again. :yes:

:thumbsup: