HOrnbrod

Car/ truck names used to be interesting. Now they are all numbers or letters like LX, DX, SL, RS, LT, SE,1500, 911, 500, etc. ad nauseaum so they won't offend or butt hurt anyone.

Anyone know who manufactured this monstrosity?

Sorry, AO is a military term for Area of Operations. Where you want to be when troubleshooting. Just for grins, have you tried to measure fuel pressure at the rail test port with a gauge while the pump is running with the ignition off? It may be running backwards because of the harness short.

Pretty good thread Here on replacing and aligning the ignition switch.

What model/year sending unit did you use for the replacement? And what is the ignition system of your rig now? Is it still Renix or is it OBD2 from the donor. Sounds like you have a polarity problem..

Since the pump did shut off with the key after you swapped ECM's, I think you're at the problem AO. Check the ECM connector and pins. Look for any bent and/or recessed pins. Clean up both the module and especially it's cable with contact cleaner.

Test your temperature indicator anyhow. Make sure it works.

If the dash temperature light is not working, the temperature switch may be bad. The temp switch is located at the left rear of the cylinder head. To test the temperature switch, 1. Turn the ignition to RUN. 2. Pull the wire connector off the switch and touch it to ground. The temp light on the dash should light. 3. If it does, replace the temperature switch on the head. 4. If the dash light does not come on, the bulb is bad or the wiring from the temp switch to the instrument cluster is open.

Good question - forgot to mention that. I have stock brake lines and to provide clearance I had to use a couple of 1/2" standoffs for the right brake line to clear the sway bar axle u-bolt.

You should get the hose bracket along with the 97 and up hoses unless you want them flopping around. Part number 55035933 at Amazon.

Since I discovered the Hunter Road Force tire balancer machine back in the mid-ninety's, I've never had a problem with unbalanced tires since. The Hunter balancers are completely idiot proof; even a deck ape can do it. First thing I do when I need balancing and I'm not near my favorite local shop, I ask what wheel balancer they use. If it ain't a Hunter Road Force, I'm gone.

Good looking truck. It sure looks like an Eliminator, but I'm not sure if you could get 4WD in a 1990 Eliminator or not. You will be able to tell for sure what it is by decoding the VIN number.

95/96 ABS, non-ABS, and Export brake systems all used the same booster, part number 4761788. Same dual diaphragm booster I used when I converted my brakes over.

Mopar part number 04713075 (52007236) is listed as 1994 XJ booster. 1994 XJs still had single diaphragm boosters, and changed to dual diaphragm boosters in 1995. From the 1994-1996 Chrysler Parts Manual: BOOSTER PACKAGE, Brake 4713075, XJ, 1994 4761788, XJ, 1995-96 4720868, ZJ, Rear Drum, 1994 4762163, ZJ, Rear Disc 1994 4856097, ZG, Rear Disc 1996 4761786, ZJ, Rear Disc, w/Gas Eng. 1995-96 4761779, ZJ, Rear Disc, w/Diesel Eng. 1995-96 So I think you have a single diaphragm booster. But your XJ is an Export model, and weird things happened. But if this were the case, your booster would not have p/n 52007236 on the tag. Part number 52007236 is a single diaphragm booster.

Have someone turn the steering wheel slightly left and right w/o the wheels turning while you're under there looking for play at every joint on the track bar, tie rod, drag link, and each front wheel. You'll probably see one TRE joint in particular the will stand out. Then jack up each wheel separately at the frame and have someone wiggle each wheel up/down and left right while you look for play at the same spots. I think the problem area(s) will be obvious.

If there was no wobble for months then suddenly started, it's not tire balance unless a ton of weight fell off at once. Or you have square Walmart Goodyear tires installed. A TRE spinning is not normal. I've never had one. Fix/replace this first. Then check the others too.

Which TRE is spinning when you try to tighten it? And what was the Moog p/n?

Good plan.

Only one way to mount a visor using the existing mounting holes unless you want to remove the headliner.

I used them for my sun visor install many years ago and they have never leaked. You just have to be sure the washer hole matches the size of the sheet metal screws you use, and the neoprene washer is facing down on the sheet metal obviously. Yes, they should be available at Lowes or similar.

Nope. That's a 90 or below Renix, you have a 92 HO. The Renix uses upper and lower chrome trim rails; the HO does not. So to swap it over you will need to drill holes top and bottom to mount the trim rails then you can swap it over. Doable, but a bit of work. If you want a chrome front front end it would be much easier to get the chrome headlamp doors and grill from a 91-96 XJ/MJ and swap them on your 92. Very easy to do..

Insulated neoprene sealing washers work well when attaching objects to a vehicle roof, like sun visors, horns, etc.

Thanks - it sure does look like I can use the same mounting points for the RHD fan. I cobbled up the FPR vacuum hose too. Thought there might be a vac hose from an XJ with the newer intake I could use.

That looks really good G. Going to drop a RHD fan in mine too to replace the trimmed LHD fan I have now. Can I still use the same mounting slots and holes that I did for the LHD fan on the right side? Don't want to cut any more holes/slots if possible. Also is that the stock FPR vacuum hose you have hooked up above? And do you have the Hesco adjustable FPR?