HOrnbrod

Yes, it's the intermittent wiper module. To have this feature you must have this module inline the column wiring harness and a multifunction switch in the column with the intermittent wiper feature (an extra wire).

I think this is the reason why the spring plate design was changed in the MJ 1990 year. You can see the plates are much thicker than the earlier 2-piece plates. Has anyone never heard of the 90-92 plates bending? I haven't. Ideally replacing the old style plates with the newer ones and using 5/8" dia. ubolts would be a good solution, but unfortunately you can't get the newer plates anymore - junkyard item only. A stout ubolt eliminator kit is another option, but I have no experience with these.

The old school look is with the vent window.

No worries - you'll outgrow it.

True. You can see brand new Mopar ignition coils on Ebay stamped "Made in China" carrying a Mopar p/n. They were previously made mostly in Japan. I won't buy a coil that's made in China or most anything else if I'm aware of it. China's not there yet, just like Japan used to be......... Hard to do because the hood won't go up any higher. For now it's just tie wrapped to the battery cable harness then branches off to pick up the original coil wire connector.

I know not why, but I've had three ignition coils go bad over the last two years. After installing a new coil, over time (six months or so) the secondary resistance increased 3K-4K over the FSM spec and the coils became intermittent, causing hard starting and occasional engine cutoffs. These were NOS Mopar coils too, not aftermarket junk. Replacing the coil always cured the problem - for awhile. In researching this premature coil failure problem, I found TSB 08-35-93 that addressed 93-94 Jeep ZJ 4.0 coil failures. The TSB fix was the installation of Mopar Ignition Coil Package P/N C3905840 which consisted a new Mopar 4762312 coil and a resistive feed harness that lowered and regulated the primary DC coil input voltage. This harness was incorporated into the 95 and up ZJ engine harnesses, so it must have been successful. If it worked on the ZJs it will work on similar year 4.0 XJs and MJs since they used a coil with the same primary and secondary coil resistance specs. I lucked out and found a C3905840 coil package on Ebay and snapped it up. Installing the harness is cake as it includes a new connector for the existing 2-wire coil connector (simply remove the wires and snap them in to the new connector), then plug in the new harness. An easy PnP mod, and even the wire colors matched my 91 MJ. Mopar Ignition Coil Package: Next, I always thought it was a stupid design on Chrysler's part to mount the ignition coil directly to the hot engine block on the HO 4.0 MJs and XJs. All that heat soak can't be beneficial to the ignition coil. So I decided to relocate the coil to a cooler spot in the engine bay. The right front shock tower looked like the best available spot. For mounting the new coil vertically I picked up a new ZJ ignition coil and mounting bracket kit on Ebay for $17.50 shipped. I didn't need the coil that came with it since the pins didn't match my new harness coil connector, so I later sold it on Ebay for $21. WIN! I also had to order a slightly longer ignition coil primary wire that I will install later when it comes in. ZJ Coil & Bracket Kit: New Harness with Coil and Bracket Installed on the Shock Tower: I'm confident this mod will make ignition coil failure a thing of the past. An added bonus has been a smoother idle, as smooth as it can be with the Hesco cam, and much less engine turn-over time when starting. It starts almost instantly now. :)

Okay, can see now those are correct with the reinforcement plates. You could probably run forever like that with no problems, but since I'm anal I'd have to replace those ubolts and bent plate if it were mine. :yes:

^^ Agree. I've never seen a spring plate that distorted. Also the plate isn't correct for an 88 - looks almost like the newer HO plate. Where is the reinforcement plate that goes under it? How's the other side? HO plates on left, 90 and below on right The spring isn't centered on the spring plate either. Does the leaf spring center bolt pass through the spring plate hole or is it snapped off?

Here's where the original wheels went: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1992-JEEP-Comanche-Cherokee-Tire-Wheel-Package-/182260423961?hash=item2a6f915d19%3Ag%3AFJoAAOSw65FXuudr&vxp=mtr&nma=true&si=pQ8GrLD1WGlMLbhVqWhwRF%252BgLpQ%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 It was an Ohio vehicle until 2010. It has had body work and a new paint job. Unless I could personally crawl all over it with a magnet I wouldn't pull the trigger. I like THIS one better.

Good places to start reading: http://comancheclub.com/topic/48710-diy-projects-writeups-master-search-index/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/48463-cruisers-mostly-renix-tips/

^^ Disregard all that - it's for a 92, not 91. You must be looking at the IAT sensor on the intake manifold. Here's a pic of the 91 coolant sensor - one wire - NOT mine but like my 91:

Thanks G. :cheers:

"air charge sensor"? Are you using the temp sensor on the rear of the cylinder head near the firewall? The sensor should look like this: Try it again w/o starting the engine. Just turn the ignition key to ON, they pull the temp sensor wire and watch the gauge with it disconnected then grounded to the block.

If anyone has a decent one of these I'll be glad to take it off your hands. :cheers:

Have you checked for fault codes? http://comancheclub.com/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/ Dielectric grease is a non-conductor and should never be used on electrical connections like connector pins. Take the ECU 60-pin connector apart and clean the male and female connectors with a good electrical contact cleaner and toothbrush. While you're in there also check for bent or recessed pins.

Do what I said above with the ignition key ON: Cable disconnected from the temp sensor = What reading on the temp gauge? Cable touched to ground = What reading on the temp gauge? Also make sure you don't have a temperature switch for the idiot light, make sure it's a temp sensor for the gauge.

Renix ECU 56006078 is an alternate (superseded) part number for ECU 53005406. It's fine for your 87 and according to Renix-man Cruiser it's an upgrade. https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/__/MICROPROCESSOR--6-Cyl-Engine--Auto-Trans--1987-88--6-Cyl-Engine--wAuto-Trans--1989-90/6955890/JR007842.html http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/JEEP/1989/CHEROKEE/MICROPROCESSOR--6-Cyl-Engine--Auto-Trans--1987-88--6-Cyl-Engine--wAuto-Trans--1989-90/4512217/JR007842.html

I agree. It's been a meaningful discussion (not argument) overall and I've learned a few things which is always good. Most everyone expressed their opinions with tact and candor without offending others. We now have an incumbent pres taking office soon unlike anything this country has experienced before. Who knows how it will work out, but I think everyone agrees that we needed a change in leadership and domestic and foreign policy. There are enough checks and balances built into our system of government to keep things stable without getting out of hand. I'm looking forward to sticking around and seeing how this political change works; not even thinking about going to Canada or Australia. Been there - done that many many times. And I do love Cali, especially when their college football teams play Bama. All easy wins. :yes:

To test the gauge temp sensor, first clean the wire connector and the sensor stud (left rear of the cylinder head) and make sure it makes a good tight connection. If okay, with the key ON pull the wire connector off the temp sensor and the gauge should deflect to LO (0*). Then short the wire to ground and the gauge should peg to HI. If it does, the wiring is temp gauge wiring should be good, and it's new temp sensor time.

It does remove some external load from the engine, but not enough that I noticed. I suppose it could be measured on a dyno.....

Let's see the "40% much more air" than stock or electric figures mate. :popcorn:

THIS is the rubber plug you need. P/n 15105, $2.58 at the dealership.

Damn Pete, so sad to hear about your friend Joe.

He lives on St. Croix Ed. Mice aren't allowed on that beautiful island. :yes:

No, there's only one washer pump connector on the MJ engine bay harness, at least on the HOs. I had to add a second one when I installed the 97+ XJ inner fender washer fluid tank for the second pump on the tank.