HOrnbrod

:dunno: I didn't watch it all either Mike. :yes: But I did see a couple of nice Willys that were still recognizable.

gai092460, you got a super nice low mileage MJ that's 28 years old and is like brand new. How often does that happen? I know it's your truck to do with as you wish, but it's been lovingly maintained for a long time as an original and hopefully you continue the tradition. No lifts, bigger tires, and all the other crap that most of us do with lesser trucks. Hope you park that jewel in the Jersey winters too. :thumbsup: Welcome aboard!

How many Jeeps can you find?

That's not normal after resetting the ECU - it normally idles lower, almost stalling until the computer learns the new settings. You can drive it a little more, but I don't think it will change. There's really no way to check the HO TPS like you can with the Renix except by replacing it. I think it's time to do it, along with it's gasket and o-ring.

Excellent idea on the glove box door trim - looks great. I shamelessly stole your idea and picked up a ZJ door with black trim that I will be using to add a little more élégance to my interior. :yes:

I have a set of these bezels that I never used because I found some NOS bezels. PM if interested.

I use the Spal controller to control only the 2nd fan and left the original OEM aux fan controls as is. I have the controller set up to turn the 2nd fan on at ~175 at LO speed, then turn on at HI speed at ~200. This is how it runs for about 75% of the year, with 25% of that time the fan running at LO speed during the colder months. During the summer around town the aux fan occasionally kicks in at ~220 and that covers the rest of the year. If stuck in heavy traffic @ 100 degree ambient, I can kick on the aux fan with an override dash switch I wired in if needed. Have had to do this only a few times. And of course the aux fan kicks on whenever I turn on the A/C. It works quite well especially since adding the restrictor disk in the upper hose.

Take care when mounting your new OEM fans. Their shrouds have to be as close as possible to the radiator (no more than 1/4") w/o touching the fins to pull max air. A lot of guys mount up aftermarket fans with no shrouds and/or mount them too far away from the radiator fins, then wonder why they can't stay cool and start badmouthing electric fan cooling. THIS setup has worked well for me for many years.

MJs never had a factory sway bar. I did it myself HERE and it's a very worthwhile mod for a street rig. Shortbed model HERE Unfortunately the guy that posted this pulled his pics.

Use the flare nut wrenches. Don't even try with open end wrenches; you will ruin the nut. These are must-have for brake lines, fuel lines, and everything else using flare nuts. If you don't use them, you will soon end up working on your fluid lines with a pair of vice-grips. That sucks......

Ain't no desert in 'Bama.

We can merge only the old posts started by you as 19674x4 into your new WyoCherokee account.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/16955-adjustable-mj-load-sensing-valve/

That was relatively easy. :cheers:

It was about $45 when I purchased it years ago. The current model is $90. It will control both fans and has variable speeds. http://www.spal-usa.com/fans/automated/accessories/fanpwm.html

Which one? It looks like there are eight MJs in the signature. :hmm: I'm confused.......

Hornbrod does have it: https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/index.php OP, why is your avatar upside-down?

This topic was just recently beaten to death discussed last month HERE. If you don't want to use a "fancy" controller, put them both on separate relay circuits and control them with a couple of dash switches. Primitive but effective.

0630 - Left side of valve cover

Look for the cylinder head stamped casting number. If original it will be 0630 and the block number will be stamped 53020569.

That was fast. No more bubbling in the reservoir?

Plumbing looks correct. Fill the reservoir with PS fluid up to the mid mark on the dipstick, start the engine and check for leaks first. If okay turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock several times to bleed the air out of the system. You should see fluid bubbling in the reservoir. If all goes well, the bubbling will stop eventually. Top the fluid level off to the "Warm" mark on the cap dip stick and you're done.

In your last pic it's the unit the the steering intermediate shaft from the steering column is connected to. That's the input to the steering gear. The output is the Pitman arm (curved piece) connected to the steering linkage.

Looks like you need a power steering gear and hoses to connect it to the pump. I can't see the steering gear box in your pics.

Do you have an existing electric aux fan now?