HOrnbrod

Self-centered cowards like this have been around forever in every generation. Now that I'm older and a slight smidgen wiser, I just avoid / ignore these clowns whenever I can because there is nothing you can do to change it. It is what it is. Sorry this happened Bo. A most excellent quote from a most excellent CC member: The children now love luxury; they have bad manners, contempt for authority; they show disrespect for elders and love chatter in place of exercise. Children are now tyrants, not the servants of their households. They no longer rise when elders enter the room. They contradict their parents, chatter before company, gobble up dainties at the table, cross their legs, and tyrannize their teachers. - Socrates (470-399 BC)

Well done and worth the $10K. Would look great with a 97+ front clip on it too.

A guy like you would eyeball the 0331 head casting number and would have nothing to do with it. :thumbsup: The 0331 cracking problem was all fixed by 01 and were ID'ed by "TUPY" letters. According to the guys at Hesco, these heads were the best flowing heads ever manufactured for the 4.0 and the most desirable.

Low-budget film.

As Tim said, the 0331 heads were first used on XJ domestic models starting in 2000, and on the Grands in 1999 models. If you are getting a 98 XJ, no worries.

This is the supply/return hose hookup for the pump, the hoses go to the steering gear box. Do you have a power steering gear box mounted or a manual box?

Looks like it might be the faux wood trim piece from a ZJ glove box door.

You have to wonder how this process was originally discovered. Maybe accidentally by some guy with a candle replacing a gear in a watermill before electricity................ Or something like that. :yes:

Try it anyhow. There's probably enough sludge oil inside the pump still to pull a suction.

I put in a Hesco high-volume oil pump (reworked Melling) in the stroker when it had about 3K miles on it. The pan didn't require any tweeking with the Hesco pump. The oil pressure went up on average 20 psi from what it was before with a fairly new stock Mopar pump. When starting cold the needle was nearly pegged until it warmed up, then settled back down and ran at about 60 psi. After a few thousand miles it dropped down about 5psi-10psi overall and has stayed there ever since. And yes I have changed the sensor just to verify. To answer your question though I think is no, I don't think a high-flow pump is necessary in a stock engine. Probably isn't really necessary in my stroker either, but all the gurus on the stroker forum recommended one. I'd just use a good quality stock pump for a stocker.

In checking p/n's for the gear set and timing chain, they are different for the 2.5 and 4.0 engines. I don't know what the difference is though. :dunno:

What was the below all about? Just make sure there's plenty of oil in the pan so the pump pickup is well below the surface, and spin the pump up slowly at first then increase speed. Your variable speed drill will soon start slowing down when the pump starts pushing the oil through. But I'm sure you know that............

MEDICAL XAVIER, a mnemonic to remember Roman numeral values. Do they still teach this in school? :yes: M = 1000 E = Not Used D = 500 I = Not Used C = 100 A = Not Used L = 50 X = 10 A = Not Used V = 5 I = 1 E = Not Used R = Not Used

OOkay, then it should be fine. Wasn't positive on the GM pump shaft config.

Don't think a SBC priming tool going to work for you mate.

Yep, that the turdy-5. So much for the accuracy of the French VIN checker........... Do you possibly have a "Metric Ton" badge on the tailgate?

If it's been setting for eight years the oil pump has lost it's prime and is probably dry. Cranking it over probably ain't going to prime the pump. You can pull the distributor and using a long flat blade screwdriver shaft and a power drill, rotate the pump cw which will prime the pump and should build up enough pressure to force some oil out the gauge port. And don't just assume the fuel pump is toast. Test for 12V on the ballast resistor and at the pump connector first. Or hot-wire the pump to see if it runs. Easier than pulling the pump if you don't have to.

Hg/in (inches of mercury) is a unit of measurement for pressure. Used for barometric pressure normally. 0 hg/in = 0 psi and 1 hg/in = .491 psi. As said above, read the psi scale when you find a good pressure gauge. Conversion calculator: http://www.convertunits.com/from/in+Hg/to/psi

Obviously the open ballast resistor was the run problem. The ballast resistor has to be in the circuit after the FP relay energizes or the engine dies shortly after starting. As to why your pressure gauge wasn't indicating I have no idea. You do not have to remove the Schrader valve from the fuel rail for the pressure gauge to indicate. And I use the GM adapter on my personal gauge set. But if the engine ran for a full minute you do have some fuel pressure. I'd bring the gauge back to wherever you got it, exchange it for another and try again. Pressure should be 30 psi (w. vacuum on the regulator) and 39 psi w/o vacuum on your Renix.

VIN : 1J7FT36L3KL445397 Country : United States Manufacturer : Jeep Corporation Vehicle Type : Truck Gross Vehicle Weight : 5001#-6000# : Comanche, Base, Metric Ton, Big Ton / Comanche, Custom, Metric Ton, Big Ton [2269/2722 Kg] Line (Body Type) : Cherokee 4x2, Comanche 4x2 Series (Body Type) : Pioneer, Islander (M) Body Style : Truck, 2-door Pickup Engine : 6 Cyl. 4.0 Liter Check Digit : 3 Year : 1989 Plant Location : Toledo #1, Ohio, USA Sequential Serial Number : 445397 Check Digit Test : VIN valide What rear axle do you have?

Just like sweating in copper pipe joints. Done plenty of that, but never tried it on steel. Good to know and hope it holds up. :cheers:

Thanks guys - that's about where mine is too. I didn't have any velcro on the module, so I drilled a small hole and tie wrapped it secure on the inside lower dash panel.

I had to add the module in when I installed the intermittent wipers years ago and have no idea where it's supposed to be as my truck didn't have one originally. Didn't know it used Velcro either. Where is the factory location? Got a pic?

Interiors were better, too. Coming from a well running 91, my '89 isn't that bad. The cooling system deserves every bit of hate it gets though. Agreed on the better interiors. I used to have an 89 XJ Wagoneer. I loved that truck. I'm not a Renix fan, but to me it's normal to have to replace a few parts as a vehicle reaches 150k, 200k, or 300k miles. And I'd rather replace a few parts than take on a car payment for a new vehicle. Also agree on the better interiors. But I forgot the older MJs have much more chrome pieces than the newer ones. And that is always desirable. :cheers:

^^ Do-the-gauge-test-as-in-post-#4. Also, since it sounds like this MJ is new to you, inspect the flex circuit foil on the back of the cluster. If the copper trace going to the fuel gauge input terminal is torn or cracked open, the gauge will stay pegged no matter what you do. And of course, make sure the screws securing the foil to the gauge mounting posts are tight and making a good electrical connection.