HOrnbrod

Neither would I. I'd prefer it. A whole lot less moving parts that wear out and break......

Because of the crack-prone cylinder heads that were originally installed on these vehicles and the coil pack ignition system which some folks don't like. But the head problem was fixed later with a new casting product (the ones stamped TUPY). Outside of that there's nothing wrong with the 00 and up conversions, in fact that's what I would prefer if I were to upgrade. The distributor-less ignition system is more efficient and less trouble-prone. A lot of the stroker guys have converted over to this design.

My engine is a 4.6 Hesco-built stroker with a mild cam. Hesco has built thousands of stock and modified AMC/Jeep inline six engines and has the best rep of anyone for the reliability and longevity of their Jeep engines. The single most important reason I use a fairly high zinc content diesel oil (Chevron Delo LE 15w-40 diesel in particular) is because Hesco recommends it for this particular engine. All the BS put out whenever this thread comes up means nothing when it comes to the Jeep 4.0 engines and it's variants to me. Lots of opinionated info in always present in these threads, some good, some bad, but most all of it doesn't apply to our engines old design inline sixes with flat tappet cams. Since this is a Jeep Comanche forum, all I care to read about is what's best for our engines. Not Benz's, Fiat's, GM/Ford junk, etc. etc. ad nauseaum.

Maybe the cop just needed one more citation to make his daily quota before his shift ended. :dunno:

Wow - how did I miss this? Great work Ben as always - subscribed. Would be great if Jim could see this one day............

It's good you found an HO. :cheers:

I like Baldwin filters because they are red. Oh, and they filter quite well too.

^^ This. Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo 15W-40.

Pretty sure the dash switches are rated at 12A. But it's always good to put the load on a relay. For the $$, that's a decent aux fuse box you linked to. I'd just use some standard 30A Bosch-type automotive relays.

Are the LED pod lights new? You have to know the total amp draw for the lights to determine if you need to put them on a relay or not. If new it will tell you on the box. If not, a quick way of doing this is to hook up your LED lights to a battery charger with an ammeter, turn them on, and look at the ammeter. Or do the same thing with a multimeter using the ammeter function and a battery. If the total amp draw is less than 5A you can get away with just using a dash switch and 12AWG wire. If over 5A, you should put them on a relay.

Looks like a good deal to me. https://huntsville.craigslist.org/cto/5989557678.html If I were in the market I'd go take a look.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/51707-cc-members-edit-or-create-a-signature-to-describe-your-truck/

^^ This. Always use Teflon tape on sensors with NPT and a single output contact. The threads will cut through the tape for a good ground contact, and you don't need to over-tighten the sensor to prevent fluid leaks.

why am I not surprised that you got a perfect one the first time? Thanks for driving that point home. Those tools have been rented by guys that could mess up an anvil with a rubber mallet. You forgot the guys who could bend a digging bar in a sand pile.

The final touch. Thanks Adam. :cheers:

Always use a grounded test light when troubleshooting lighting feed circuits especially if there may be LED bulbs present. Using an incandescent test light helps eliminate false readings caused by ground loops.

Best donor to do what?

That does look good and factory. Nice mod. :cheers:

Mc Donalds got sued by some woman who did that with here hot coffee and got burned! Poached fish.

XJ perch leaf spring seats on the axle width is are NOT at the same distance apart as an MJ OR XJ and MJ rear axles are different and CANNOT be swapped in stock form. The leaf spring seats are spaced differently, and an XJ axle is mounted spring-over, where the MJ is spring-under...... unless you want instant 4" of rear lift..... :D OR

They are interchangeable even though they carry different part numbers.

Disconnect the rear lighting connector behind the bumper, then using a test light check & verify all the outputs are there on the correct connector pins. If they are, the problem is caused downstream from the connector, like trailer wiring, bulbs/sockets, etc.

That too. But usually it's more than one lobe when a cam goes.......

Mine are all LEDs and they flash normally.

Quite possibly a collapsed lifter.