HOrnbrod

If ya ask me, its the same lady inconsistently posting, or deliberately trying to avoid her mistakes of posting #51... And If I'm remembering correctly, you're the same guy who bought MJRemi's legit Street Comanche then flipped it. So why the concern?

The drama continues................

^^ This. Mopar 83501426 195*

According to the 86 factory parts manual the 2.5 carbed model distributor has a sync sensor (p/n 83500409) and the 2.5 TBI model does not.

Nope, same length. 1985-1997 Ford 350 rear sway bar links work well though.

Fixed it.........

Synergy sway bar relocation brackets and/or longer end links. http://comancheclub.com/topic/38552-sway-bar-relocation-brackets/?hl=synergy

If all is well, the aux fan does come on with the A/C or when the temp sensor in the thermostat housing senses an engine temperature of 215-218 degrees. This is the factory spec. Maybe my 91 did that when it was new, but it's never done that since I've owned it. It comes on at around 230* indicated on the temp gauge. I've tried new sensors to knock it down a bit and it doesn't help. Since I've been running two electric fans for years now and the original aux fan is my backup, I wanted a means to turn it on manually in case my primary electric fan that replaced the mechanical fan went belly up. I wired the aux fan to a dash switch that overrides the sensor and applies a ground to the ECU pin that controls the aux fan. This turns the aux fan on if I need it like when stuck in summer traffic on 100* days. It's easy to do and good insurance. Let me know f you would like a wiring diagram. It works well when/if you need it.

Then the CPS (or your meter) is NFG. Or you are reading the meter wrong.

Huh? :hmm:

.5V on the AC scale............

Get an aftermarket cover with a real drain. They have them for D35's..........

I haven't but I will this weekend and report back. Will do that before anything else. Another thing I'd do that's free and may help is cleaning the 60-pin ECU connector with a good electrical contact cleaner and a toothbrush. Look for any recessed or bent pins also on the ECU connector.

Have you ever checked the ECU 5VDC sensor reference voltage? A convenient place to check it is at the violet wire of the MAP connector. Check it with the ignition key ON, engine not running and the MAP connector unplugged. Then check it again at the violet wire with the engine running and the MAP connector plugged in by back-probing the connector. In both checks the voltage should be 5V + or - .3VDC.

I had cruise on my 91 for years using the round factory canister - no problems ever. But I didn't use cruise all that much either. As long as your vacuum system is free of leaks and the check valves work properly you will be fine.

Article HERE If Fiat - Chrysler can built stuff like this, why not a Jeep pickup? With 707 HP?

I'd get an early 80's Audi Quattro.

Is your MJ a stock export model with the AMC-20 rear axle? And what wheels are you using? Jeep stock wheels or aftermarket? The AMC-20 wheel stud p/n is J3220275 which crosses to Dorman p/n 610-170.1. http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=32669&SEName=610-1701

http://allprooffroad.com/shop/flat-bed-kit/ Ask the mfg.

Then you might want to check the bushing right in front of the seal. The bushing gets egged out over time resulting in a sloppy slip yoke and leaking rear seal. Special tools are required to change out the bushing, and a transmission shop doesn't charge much to replace it - about an hours labor.

Mr. Coors lives in your location, and that's all good. :cheers:

Is this the seal in the tailshaft extension that the slip yoke rides in?

It takes a good fifty miles or so of driving with several key starts along the way before the computer "learns" the new settings from changes, like sensors, throttle body, and even battery disconnects. Mine always runs like crap at first and gradually comes back to normal. The idle is usually low, and it stalls sometimes when rolling to a stop. How much have you driven it so far after the last changes you made?

Not quite true. You can watch the open-to-closed loop transition on an A/F meter in less than a minute after starting the engine - the temp gauge hasn't budged yet. This means the ECU is passing traffic. The cycle to closed loop is complete at about two minutes after starting depending on ambient temperature and the idle immediately smooths out.

No guarantees that the Luk was made in Germany. They outsource more than we do.