jaekl

Read your owners manual. Maine states that a bar must be used undeer a full size spare. Anbody have one or seen one?

Your subject line sounds like a parody on AA. The big difference here is the help is not to "solve" your problem but to help you get in deeper and celebrate it.

Gee, can you do that when it's not snowing? Maybe he should have had the plow on that day and move the axle some other day. Good idea. Now it makes sense to keep it on all year.

Details, what are the details. Standard, original spring loaded mouse trap? Trap is set and then tripped to start the race? Is car free standing or against a fixed starting block? Weight is your enemy. My kids had to make wind cars and we maded strofoam wheels cut out with a holesaw. An extensive approach would have a cord attached to the hook and then wrapped around a shaft or wheel that would eventually rotate wheels. Could have escape mechanism to gear it up. Otherwords, minimum spring release to maximum wheel rotation. Another approach would get a flywheel going to drive the wheels. I think the first would have the least lost energy. Gear it up to the point of wheel slip at start when most torque is available. If this is a higher tech course, it sounds like a design/fab exercise.

It would make a great heating vent. Put a fan behind it to pull air from one room to another, like one with a woodstove that puts out too much for the room it's in. NOw it would be functional art.

What are you doing? You're off to a great start to have a Jeep! All you need is everything else. Where is your sense of adventure? It's not art. It's an opportunity.

There are some 4 cylinders with instruments, but you can use one froma 6 cylinder. The most important thing is the speedo hook up. There are threes styles early and later mechanical speedo and the late model electronic speedo. I think 87 is the transition for the two mechanical speedos. I know the early tachs are only 4 or 6 cylinder, but I've read here that the later ones can be switched. Either way it's no big deal. I hade a 6 cyl tach in a 4 cyl for 15 years until I found one to plug in. Just multiply the indicated reading by 1.5.

Ditto here. Used to read a steady 14 volts and then started dropping fast. Reading at battery indicated alternator was working. I pulled the cluster and had full voltage at the cluster plug. Cleaned the contacts a little and meter went back up to 14 volts. It's falling slowly again, so I'll have to try better cleaning.

To stop your load from sliding out the back when the tailgate is down, just wedges in. Could be just styling to make it look right or reduce a bit air drag. There are three ideas maybe one is right.

Don't forget about the optional quarter window on 2 door XJ. It would fit the B post of course and it is framed already. The only fabrication would be between the rear of the window frame and the back edge of the MJ vent.

Is a paved driveway considered off road? The tractor was clearly off road though.

The Jeep was just showing off, pulling the Chevy, Ford and semi out at one time. It's amazing the lack of knowledge drivers have especially the straight wheel rule. 24 years ago a FedEx truck couldn't get out of our parking lot at work. After watching for a few minutes, I went out to offer advice. Still no success, so the driver said, here you drive. Almost made it up the hill and alot farther than the driver could. It took some more of the audience to come out and stand on the bumper. They just don't seem to have a contigency plan, just keep trying until something breaks. You would think they would have some kind of snow equipment considering the business they are in.

The 9 slot wheel, I believe it is the Argent style, was the base wheel from the beginning of the XJ/MJ series. It was also used on the YJ and TJ. I still see them on fairly new Jeeps.

Does anybody have any info on the 'Cash for Clunker' buzz in Washington? It seems that the wheels in their minds are turning. How do they save the auto industry? Create incentives for people to buy new. At first thought you think okay, I'll trade some junk in and get cash or tax relief and a new car (how about multicar trade?) They don't understand the hobbiest mind. In order to make the plan effective the trades must be destroyed. Many hobbiest won't comply, however, the problem will be evrything gets more expensive to maintain. This isn't free market, it's controlled market. Instead of having the industry evolve into what is required, we will try to rescue it with poor products. These ideas have been tried before but this time the mood is different. Are we going to burn down houses to jump start the housing industry? Any thoughts

Dudes, what are you doing with a table saw? If you are using a square and the fence together, don't. I can't think of any other way anything can be thrown by the blade.

Perhaps the hinges are binding.

"The printed circuit board is not the same for the gauges and for the idiot lights. In fact, the printed circuit is different for gauges with the large gas gauge than for gauges with the tach." I couldn't believe this when I saw it 20 years ago when I did my swap. From a company that standardly used the same bumper front and rear and even had a show car that used the same body part on opposite corners to save costs. (turned into the Hornet) It's not just the wiring the plastic housing changed too. It must have been under the responsibililty of the Renault designers.

Reminds me of when my brother-in-law thought it was a good idea to drain his oil over a grond hog hole. Never mentioned that he ever dropped the plug. How much oil is involved? A couple of quarts? Highly unlikely it made it to any water supply. Mostly all natural stuff there, oil, carbon, etc. Oil comes from the ground. We have been pouring oil on the ground for years. I wouldn't make a big deal out of it unless you know who is responsible. Time for Sgt Schultz "I see nothing, I hear nothing" This could easily get bigger than it needs to be. Options: Dig it and fling it all over (don't let anybody see you) Plant some grass and fertilize, nature will clean it up. There is a fungus that eats oil.

My 4 cylinder does the same thing but from indicated 160 to 210. 160 is probably what the normal temp should be. Seeing how rapidly is falls, I fairly sure it's thermostat and must be a bit sensitive. The dwell angle reduces with time and settles down. With my temps, I'm not concerned. My new issue is the voltmeter. The indicated value has dropped way below 14 volts but the measured voltage at the battery with and without the alternator is as it should be. Must have a voltage drop some where, but sometimes it will almost get up to 13 volts.

You didn't say what did happen. Do they come on but don't blink or is there no light at all? With no light the problem is probably power to switch to relay. If the lights go one but do not blink the problem is probably down stream and probably ground at the lights. That's my problem there is a voltage drop such that the battery voltage is no enough to make the left side blink (it just glows). The alternator must be putting out enough to make it blink and it's getting slow. I suspect the front socket ground, but hey the roof doesn't leak when it's not raining, I'll get to it.

I think this is all kinda of silly. With all the effort you did on the rest of the truck, you were hoping this unused oldly rebuilt engine would be fine. Especially now, tear it down clean and oil all surfaces and reassemble. You could even get some plastic gage to check the clearances. You have the perfect project. A nice clean engine that just needs to be disassembed and reassembled, if you keep it stock. But yeah it's also a good time to do some mods.

While we are on the subject of brake fluid and its hydroscopic nature. It has been stated that it actually pulls the moisture out of the air. The problem is saturation point. Like the atmosphere it will have a dew point defined by some parameters. The water will condense and fall out. If that lower surface is steel, it will rust. The hydroscopic nature is why the fluid should be changed. The higher the moisture content, I'm sure the boiling point of the fluid is also lower as the water turns to steam and you get a spongy pedal. The rust is just a nuisance. (On another car I have the master cylinder is the only horizontal cylinder with the reservoir directly above it. A rust pit forms directly below the port to the reservoir.) PS. Do I change my fluid? No. Except for changing the front hoses a few years back and now the rear hose and lines on the axle, I still have 22 year old original fluid, well maybe 50% after the bleeds. The other car has had Dot 5 for over twenty years and it looks like it is time to rebuild the system. Probably more from the lack of use than age. As for the fuse panel, 3 things, location, location, location. There won't be any easy way to do it with the short wires between the bulkhead connector (C100 or C101) and the panel. Having a 2 foot lift kit would make it easy on your knees. Pulling the contacts doesn't look easy and besides some might even be broken, mine are. So splicing each wire on both ends will be the last resort. In lines fuse are possible but could be a mess and an identification issue. You could also consider a panel from another type of car and locate it more convient. There is no easy answer for a badly corroded panel except splicing one at a time. Hopefully, you don't have many options so you don't have to to al of them.

Sure you can learn by trial and error. That is how the trade was developed. If you want to be productive and get the most out of the tools you need to acquire the knowledge. If you want to just tinker around and don't care how long it takes, you can get by without training, just think about safety. However, if your are using somone elses tools, better make sure you know what you are doing. With training you can get accuracy, better surface finish, and less tool abuse.

If all those people would get out of the way, the trucks would be able to drive around the holes. Why are the front wheels back so far? Being last in line has some advantage with all the earth moving going on with the front bumpers.

It doesn't do anything like that. It's the load sensing brake pressure regulator. The heavier arm should be horizontal and the link to the diff should be vertical. Lots of discussion on the subject. After a little search, you'll find some have taken it off, but if it still works, it's a matter of opinion. This should be part of the welcoming package for newcomers. Oh yeah welcome.