jaekl

How many of those body kits do they sell? Must be a market for it. Wonder if he's looking at a MJ spring under axle conversion? How much drop can you do up front without going to 2wd or independent?

Oh, what's the prize? I'm getting closer.

So think of a time that it will hit. Then respond after the fact. oops another one.

Now wait you can't count these post. oops another one.

Isn't the trim aluminum? Though it might be stainless.

I know in 86 the owners manual shows the adapter and the folding lug wrench as in the XJ. My 88 had the solid lug wrench that is shown above but the placard on the rear panel still refers to an adapter. Looks like at the end of the AMC time there was a cost savings by switching the lug wrench and eliminating the adapter. If you aren't suppose to put the curve top of the jack under the axle, where did they want you to put it?

Look in the owners manual at, least AMC vintage and the placard above the jack storage. The adapter allows the use of the lug wrench to lower the spare. You don't always have 5 feet of clearance to use the jack handle. I figure the owner had a flat, lowered the spare used the lug wrench, leaving the adapter in the winch, threw the flat into the bed, and drove off. In the manual it looks like a screw driver. Obviously it will be 3/4 hex and turned down with some flats to go into the winch. I was just wondering if any exist in captivity or are they all along the road somewhere wondering what they did wrong while they rust away and get driven over. Oh, sorry, got a little caried away.

The real question is does anybody have the adaptor for the spare tire winch? I know, I use the end of the jack handle. I'm just curious what it looks like.

Guys it's basic air flow principle. In order to let fresh air to come in you have to let some out. Except for recirculating air conditioning, all heat/vents system use fresh air in our case from the base of the windshield. On the XJ the air leaves the cabin through the slots in the right side panels in the cargo area (and where ever it leaks thru) and goes out through the rear most dor jam vents. The B post on a 4 door does not have vents so for the MJ they vented out thru the speakers and out the door post. Also most pickups don't have much body work behind the doors because they are not sharing doors with a 4 door and can be longer. So the designers kill two problems by extending the cab so that vents could be incorporated.

The vents are in the 2 door jamb. With that size of window he will have alot of space behind the seat. He must like to weld and is good at it. I managed to terminate the roof ribs on my Cherokee when I added a sunroof rather than welding all the way across. It is a solution to the different roof profiles but that is alot of reshaping of the Comanche panel. Nice work, impressive. but where is the floor? Side note on the vents, the Mahindra truckin another post must also be sharing doors from a 4 door vehicle. The doors are a bit shorter than other trucks so a wider B pillar is needed.

Are you going to put a lift kit on the WRX? Sorry we already used the Logan name, try another.

The point of joining a forum is to pool experience. I would think by now there would be a list of attack points, in order of priority. If it can't be pin pointed to one component, then it needs to be most likely/easiest/cheapest. Tires/wheels fit that one. Mine are bolted on and I carry a wrench. Swap front to back or borrow someone elses. But always look for obvious worn suspension pieces.

When Donkey is trail ready, can he use the trail. It would sure be quicker than the 'short cut'. In all the videos and photos, I don't see 'the trail' Oh just go out and play then.

Base on the above comments, henceforth let it be known. Whenever, you have any wobble to any extreme, check, switch, or replace your tires/wheels first. Of course a regular inspection of suspension pieces should always be done. "Man the front end fell apart but it went over the cliff as smooth as butter." May you be bless not to actually experience true death wobble.

Check the compression. I had holes in 2 pistons. It ran smooth enough, just not much power.

I don't know where this is going to end. Society embraces the 1 tenth of 1 percent incidences to justify a change. Mankind and other creatures raised and taught their offspring for thousands of years. Now we learn that was all wrong. Nature uses pain (attention) to learn. The point was to develop a thought process before a bad deed is done. Overwhelmingly people are capable of doing this. Very very few go "hey violence is okay". Without discipline few will develope the thought process of thinking about the consequences and effects of one' actions. The expression of one rotten apple come to mind. This attitude as als degraded education and business. If the way it had been was so wrong why are we not still living in caves and how did we build some of the things we did.

The valve shuttles towards the front line since there is no pressure to balance it and the rear ports still have pressure. Doesn't a XJ metering block reduce the pressure to the rear lines at all times so that the rears don't lock up as easily?

Just pull it, straight off.

Dude, at $***/per gallon why was the engine running? You need one of those mailman chocks on a stick. I meant the rear cables. Make sure they freely slide. Inspect the entire system to make sure everything is working freely.

The rear cables are probably stuck. Let me quess they hold forward but slip a little in reverse. Probably dragging a little too. Look for brakes in the sheath. Once moisture gets in, they rust.

Why don't you plug it into your other Jeep to verify the clock is okay? Doesn't everyone have more than one?

While we are on the subject, I have a question. You see the highlight of work was to see how early I could turn the engine off and coast into my parking space, (You know like flat towing) I know I'm talking short distance at slow speed. Although I was known to do it at 40+mph and over half mile. I've never had the pleasure of taking a TC apart, but what is going on in there? Due to the low range there can't be a straight thru shaft. I'm picturing that this transmission path is designed to be driven by the input shaft and has possible issues when driven by the output shafts. Anybody know of a good exploded view? For you guys (or anyone) that experience the front and rear axles locking together, another question. Are the front and rear driveshafts locked when in 4H and 4L (1986 Command Trac)? 50/50 torque split? Of course I still haven't figure out how they vary the torque split these days.

Well I'm feeling dumb. I forgot that there was a neutral. I hope I'm going home to the right house. I never thought of using it, so forgot about it (neutral not the house). To think all those miles I've coasted around parking lots looking for a spot, I could have reduced some drag. I've coasted with the engine off over 15 miles, 1/4 mile at a time. I take it the TC doesn't like to be driven by the DS. If you follow the manual, why bother with the 10 ft back and forth. Just put it in neutral after it's been driven in 2wd and the engine is off. Of course all of this only applies to front axle disconnects. From what I'm hearing either trailer or dolly with rear DS pulled and the tailshaft caped off.

Thanks, that makes more sense. I can go back to sleep now. I'll check it and look it up in the manual as soon as I get home tonite.

I'm going to feel dumb if after 22 years, I never notice the neutral position.