jaekl

That happened out on the street a couple of months back. Luckily he just pulled out from a light so speed must have been low. I quess the pin/lock failed. Hey swing that trailer by my place. I'll store it with stuff inside.

Are you saying the taper of the ball joint is spinning? If so apply pressure to force the taper together so that you can turn the nut. A lever under the nut is often enough to do the job.

In theory the the adjusting cable can be in front or rear. Typically, they're toward the rear of the vehicle, such that when reversing the rear shoe becomes the leading shoe and the drum graps it,(definition of leading shoe) which pulls the cable more so that the pawl might move up a ratchet. Make sure the adjuster is on the side of the car so that when the adjusting pawl comes down that the resulting rotation lengthens the adjuster. That's the way I understand it.

Okay time for a hyjack. The 2 door Libbie with the inside spare hit me. The subject is inner wheel wells. Ever wonder how they decide how big they need to be. Pickup trucks seem to be ridiculously oversize. Okay I'll play along. The designers totally flex the axle etc with some oversized tires and say that's it! However, that must have been done before the guy responsible for the spare tire did his job. On a XJ he whacks a dent in the well to fit the full size spare. Now wait I thought the well was at its min size. 'Not my job man' Just image how much usable cargo space (and rear seat room) cars and trucks would have with appropriately sized wells.

The hot water heater and dryer made it thru the crash much better.

When you are searching through the yards for seats, don't forget to ask if they have any Renault Allliances. I think they are the same seats.

If you what the extra height, follow my modification in my post Bucket Seat Installation. If you cut the offset bracket from the XJ and drill new holes you can mount the rocker/slider track directly on top of the straight track. You wouldn't be able to use the center bolt and you will sit about an inch higher.

Guys what camjeep 3 is looking for is a photo or a description of how the two sliding panes seal in the middle. That is where it is stuck. Are the frames interlocking or is there some seal that might have stuck from lack of use. Then he will have some idea of what technique and force is required to open it. You guys with the 4 piece windows, how are they ssealed?

It might not gravity bleed with an air bubble in the line near the master cylinder. Gravity bleed is really siphoning and you need air free from the m/c to some point below in the lilne before it will siphon. Another option is to pick up another m/c cover and put an air fitting on it. Crank the shop air down to about 5 psi and then just open one wheel at a time and out comes the juice

Good rules Pete. Flat lands near a creek are typically thick deposits of sediment and can be very soft. Had my tractor stuck a couple of times. I'm careful not to get too close to the edge of the creek or spinning wheels suck it down the slope. The long walk back to the house to get whatever to get unstuck takes some of the fun out of it.

I don't go out of my way to go thru the mud but out of curiosity I have a question. From the photos it looks like you will go thru anything, but how to you establish where you shouldn't go? I'm sure everyone has heard stories of construction sites where they lost equipment in the mud. (sink holes) Has anybody lost their truck because they ventured a bit off the trail? I understand the thrill of the challenged and getting stuck and overcoming it is the whole point, but is it possible to sink so deep there is no pullling out? Is it mud or is it a swamp? I would think swamp buggies could be worse because you can venture farther from solid ground.

Empty Post

Update for the few who haven't put buckets in yet or can only find buckets with sliders. The previous modification was okay but the seats were still a little high (watch your head thru the door) and the slider wasn't effective due to the high rear mount the seat has to be rocked all the way forward and the seat pushed all the way back. Now I've decided to remove the curved tracks and turns out to be a much simpler modification. In order to incorporated the curved tracks, Renault/AMC offset the straight tracks to the outside by making a bracket where one side has outrigers. These need to be cut off in order to allow the base bracket to be mounted between the main frame of the seat. Remove the curve tracks from the base bracket. 5 of the 6 bolts are easy access. Once they are out the remaining one is removed by rotating the curved track. Cut off the offending outrigers and weld two strips of metal between the middle and front raise sections of the base bracket. I curved these strips to simulate the shape of a factory bracket. Drill new holes in the rear raised section centered with the straight track. Attach the seat to mark the location of the front holes in the new metal strips. Looking at my XJ with sliders and how the seat is adjusted, these hole locations virtually duplicate the seat location. The finish seat is very close to a factory setting and I no longer have to watch my head. The front of the seat might be a bid low compared to the rocked XJ seats but I might have those a bit more than a non-slider seat. Perhaps the straps should be straight or use a couple of washers or since the back holes on the seat are slotted, I can slide the seat forward and drill new front holes. Go ahead bring the earlier seats home with the rocker/sliders. They'll work with a little bit of work. While I had it apart, I looked into the feasibility of turning a 4 door seat into a folding 2 door seat. It doesn't look good. Sure enough there is a pivot for the reclining part but it is fairly high. The pivot for a 2 door right is at the base of the seat so the 4 door frame would need a section cut out in order to insert a pivot. Of course some form of latch should be made as well.

You bring up a good point. When normal people do something stupid and get hurt, they don't want anybody to know. Just go off and lick your wounds. So if you get over your natural instincts, you might be able to make some money these days.

You can always do the same as stereo's - take it with you. Never understood that. The radio was still their for the taking, which should of made a hot market for face plates. You could always park it up tight to a wall. Looking at your project you need to be concerned about the whole truck being taken. Bait and switch would be another approach keep something that looks more valuble in the bed like a new electronic box with dead weight in it. They open the tailgate and discover something better but can only carry one item. If you count on car alarms, you could attach a cable when pulled would set the alarm. Of course they would drop it and it would get damaged. Finally, use that lock you pictured and add a block to one of the draw bars that prevents movement unless the lock is down.

Copy that. Mine is mostly on the right side. Mine is marginally wired back to keep it away. But your right they kinda cramped its (brake cable) style with too much bending. Has anybody switched the backing plates (only) left to right to have the cable exit the rear of the drum?

The trend of not letting people in started a while back. It actually started to get better. We used to roam freely in yards as kids, ah the good old days. The individuals that ruined it for the rest of us by sueing for some injury by trying to retrieve a used part of questionable condition to keep their vehicle running safely on the road had all those skills but could tell that something wasn't supported well? I'm assuming that was a typical chain of events that lead to us be rescricted from many yards. Maybe we should have sued the individuals because could they really maintain a safe vehicle if they didn't know an unsafe one when they crawled underneath? If they survived, they then exposed us to their vehicle. Scary. Yeah those yards that had a couple hundred cars sitting around probably were thinking they were getting too old for it. I'm starting to eye over my various vehicles. I'll wait, they can only go up in value one way or another.

Is there a trend of junkyards closing? I'm starting to notice missing junkyards. Now I'm thinking if they were willing to pay you upwards of $300 per car, how much do they get? If it's significant, then why wait around for someone to buy bits at a time? Just crush it and send it to China. Is there something going on or am I just jumping too far? Currently, I don't get to frequent (or need to) yards very often to be on the inside. Is there something to be alarmed about or not?

Thanks, that helps explain the decal. Looks like a way to get extra taxes or the spread them out a bit. It's very ironic how a country that was formed to escape religious intolerance is so judgemental and must put things in neat tidy categories (in order to justify something else) so that all the facets don't have to be dealt with. Shoot, we were very intolerant towards the people we took the land from once we didn't need them. Then there were the witch trials, 'You're different, we must get rid of you.' The actions of a few ruin it for everyone. As my aunt once said 'What a shame, 'ghey' was a perfectly good word.' You bring up some good points. There had to more reasons why so many died for their side. They weren't all rich people who owned slaves. We've moved on from WWII and now Japan is a major ally/partner and we never really had much resentment towards the Germans. We made up with the Brits, but have we really gotten over the Civil War. From what little we learn about the Conferate side is that they were for less government control. Isn't that what the Revolutiionary War was about. Forgive me if I distorted the facts, but if you step back a little from the details, you see what I see.

You peaked my interest. First, what is this decal that you pay for in your real estate taxes but didn't receive, which is bad because you didn't buy one? Please explain. Next, I'm interested in a history lesson. What is the background of the Confederate flag and what does it stand for?

Everybody's giving you a hard time, but I'm impressed. I thought welding upside down was tough. Shoot, you weld without looking. How did it come out?

Great, so somebody with thorough knowledge on the suspension items should do a DIY project describing suspension inspection and make it a sticky since this is an important safety issue. Eagle's recent description of how to check a track rod by holding the end and feeling for movement is a good example. Worn suspension items need to be addressed whether they cause wobble or not. The other point I was trying to make was even the definition of DW is not clear in some owners mind even though Eagle's and other's decription is very clear to me. I quess what I'm trying to say is let's not focus so much on DW but instead to maintain safe trucks.

When mine was about 6 years old (and all stock). I had an event at 45 or 50, very repeatable. I thought the shocks were shot but that didn't help. Took it to the dealer and they replace stabilizer or track rod, I don't remember which. That fixed it. Years later an out of round tire was an issue. Replacing the track rod didn't help. The big problem here is there is death wobble which sounds like an undamped resonant frequency response, which probably only a lucky few actually have experienced, but then there are all sorts of different events that may seem like death wobble. Hence the many different opinions. We should simply establish a list of items to check. Obviously, any worn suspension/steering components should be replaced whether they cause an event or not. A must on the list would be tire inspection or substitution. Sometimes a simple swap front to rear can pin point a problem with the tires. Perhaps as a community we should advocate an annual inspection of our own suspension/steering components with a DIY post. When I still went to the dealer for free state inspection, they often claimed the track rod was shot. Then I took it to a local station and not a word. So was I being taken by the dealer or the local guy didn't know what he was doing? ( I did replace it later and do the swirm test) Notice I did not say that I experienced DW because I don't think I did. It was more trouble some then scary. However, I not lifted with heavier, larger tires, which I'm sure will amplify any wobble and put more strain on the components. Okay, so what causes one of the front castors on a grocery cart to wobble all the time?

I second the adhesive. I remember one at a new car show back in the eighties and there was sealant oozing out everywhere. Then thinking, this is the best the dealeer could provide for this show? Figured it was typical factory quality.

Looking for some opinions (actually cheaper fix). A while back on cold days I'd have a vacuum leak from the master cylinder, cabin side. Typically, it would leak the most with a light foot and stop (leaking) when pressed all the way. Now it leaks a little all the time except when fully depressed. I've just assumed it was the seal around the push rod, but doesn't that requires replacing the entire booster. Or is a simple repair possible? It's not my daily driver and I have full braking power. It's at the age where I'll nurse it along with the irony being if I end up replacing it, I should have done it a while back to get the most usage. My understanding of brake boosters is vacuum is maintained on both sides of the diaphram until the brakes are applied. Then the cabin side is vented so that atmospheric pressure helps push the brake rod into the master cylinder. Obviously, I haven't taken it out yet to assess the situation. Just trying to lean on the experience here on the workings of a booster. Thanks,