jaekl

I found my old post. http://comancheclub.com/topic/1268-bucket-seat-installation/?hl=seats

I haven't been on this forum for a while. I had modified XJ seat bases and keep the rockers. After much work the slope of the floor requires the seat to be rocked all the way forward and the seats still sit high. I ended up cutting the rockers off and mounted those directly to the MJ bench base with some extra metal welded on. A search may produce some photos. The time frame should be around 2006.

This mentality is evading all aspects of American life and is in direct conflict of what defines the USA, independent, individuality. Why at every turn are we trying to kill the free market and add more and more regulations to protect the buyer? In this case there is still a part to maintain the pollution control and keep the liability with the manufacturer. However, using the simpler approach is much easier and more effective. If you can't do the project well to pass whatever reguirements your state has, do start it. If you goof it up, it's your financial loss, no one elses. As a buyer, if you can't tell if it was a good conversion, do not buy it and buy a stock car. The election was clear that a good majority don't want a controlled society, but these regulations keep coming to 'protect' us.

Your nightmare has happened to me on more than one occasion. Don't get complacent about finding a source for something not readily available locally. I've looked something up as a 'someday' item, been excited that I found it, created bookmarks for future reference, and even gone back later to see if it's still there, but when it can time to order it, it's a dead link and wasn't removed when the part was discontinued. Confirm it's still available and then quickly save the cash.

Thanks, for the responses. My 86 from new is fine but it broke on my 88 that I picked up in 2005 so I don't know the history. It sounds like a rare occurance but does happen.

After twenty plus years of XJ's and MJ's has anyone experienced the plastic breaking that holds the headlight switch? My wife used the truck and couldn't turn the lights off because the switch was loose. Was it abuse or just fatique over time. The switch is long and has some weight but the plastic is thick. Full repair requires the replacement of the entire dash and I have one in the right color, but I wasn't up to it so I made a metal repair piece. They could have easily made the mounting more like the cigarette lighter. I was just wondering if anyone else has had this failure.

I've seen this Fram filter discussion many times and I have a question. As I recall the Fram filter has a bigger filter media which allows larger items through. I read that as the oil flows through more readily. I was nursing a Voyager with low oil pressure and the pressure was a bit higher with a fram filter than a Purolator. That all makes sense when you think of pressure drop through the filter. The oil flows easier through the Fram and the pressure sending unit must be down stream from the filter. If I apply all of that reasoning/observation to a Jeep with comments from here that the oil pressure is higher with a non-Fram filter, then it follows that the pressure sender is upstream from the filter and therefore having a higher reading may not be as reassuring as you might think. Is there something wrong with my reasoning or am I missing something?

After 23 1/2 years my clutch slave started to leak on my 86 2.5l. I replace the internal on on my 88 a couple of years back and thought this one would be a piece of cake. It ended up not being bad at all, but reaching the upper bolt looked like a show stopper. I ended up reaching over the top of the trans with a combination wrench. However, the wrench can not be rotated enough to get another notch, so I had to alternate with a different wrench. Luckily, they were not overly tight. Is there another way to remove the slave without removing the trans, of course? Thanks

If he replaced the emergency rear line, there is no fluid in it and there is no way to bled it. There is a possibility if he could fill the entire line with fluid, he would then be able to build pressure in the rear brakes. In order to fill the line, the air needs to be removed. Had Jeep put a bleeder where the emergency line leaves the prop valve, the job would be easier. Opening the fitting will let the air out. The fluid would fill the line from the rear forward after it has gone through the height sensing valve.

You didn't say which line you replaced. The one used all of the time or the one that is only used when the front brakes fail? There is a procedure to bled the entire system by forcing a failure in the front system so that the emergency line can be bled. If you are up to cutting some corners, try cracking one of the ends of the new line and allowing the fluid to drain some. This would be an attempt to back fill the new empty line. If it was the emergency line that you replaced and it sounds like it is and the previous didn't work, you could crack the emergency line open at the prop valve under the hood and have someone pump the brake while you open and close. However, by this time you might as well do it the right way.

I don't have it. Wow, gearbox fill plug location is a matter of personal opinion. I'm going with Possum one this one. I used the large hex bolt for both the 86 Ax5 with 4wd and the 88 AX4 2wd. I think that's per the owners manual.

They look like the right ones but whoever goes after them, you need to ask for a photo of the other side. The round blank will probably be okay, but the ignition key changed. I don't know when but he may be correct for only through 1984.

It's just like the 'did you pack your lunch or rode the bus?' question and they are not necessarily mutually exclusive. Science is about how something happened not why. Evolution is 'how' and Creationism is one possible 'why' but focuses too much on 'how'. Mere humans do not have the capability to figure out or understand 'why', but we will spend countless hours debating, fighting, and even killing to protect our opinions or beliefs.*** Did Jeep just introduced the MJ or did it take years of design evolution. Some of the trials were successful on their own right and some just disappeared. Is there much difference? Religion pays a very important part of one's culture and it's sole purpose is to maintain some sense of a sane world. That is not governments responsibility. To think that any particular religion is the only one and was sent as a message is counterdictive. The general theory is the word was sent but only to a few or that some have distorted the word since they received it. That doesn't say much for the quality of 'the force' or is it just our created idea of 'the force'. Kinda like Santa Claus. Maybe the personification of a red suited elf is false but that doesn't mean the spirit doesn't exist. We can prove that theories are right or wrong but we can't be sure that the idea is true or not. Finally, any belief that allows every person, animal, or thing to have an equal right to exist and live as they wish without an impact on anyone else works for me and the bottom line is you will either find out or you won't. There is not much you can do about it except do the right thing, which brings us back to the beginning. ***Another example is 'Right to Life and Right to free Choice'. They are not opposites of the same issue, yet we have argued for years like we think the 'right decision' will be reached because half the people don't have a valid point. Imagine where we would be if all that energy was spent to prevent the need for abortion, but that would mean we would be smart enough to control ourselves. Yet we think we can figure out the creation of the universe. Com'on get real. It's just as your parents said, 'worry about your own actions'

I'm with you Sir Sam. When I learned the old family van qualified for CFC, I found the Connect. Luckily it was late in the program and not looking for a car payment. Good old ulitarian wagon. There's no trim behind the rear seats. I wonder if spray on bedliner was an option.

Rust. It's been a few years but I recall that my right front socket had a ground tab that was to contact the bulb base and it was corroded.

Well, that's just it. If you measured the 9.5 between the prongs and the socket body, the drop could be on the power side or the ground side. Imagine yourself an electron and you're traveling down the wire, go through the filament, and now you have a fork in the road. Hurry home like you should but there is obstruction (2.5V) in the way or take the detour of less resistance up through the instrument cluster and then home. Most of it will go the least resistance. If the voltage drop to ground (either path) is too high, there is not enough voltage(power) to make the like glow or all of the light on the path including detour glow dimly. Your new steps look good. Worst comes to worst, you start pulling fuses and light bulbs to isolate circuits.

You need to be careful when using a voltmeter when finding faults. What are you measuring the voltage to? Are you getting 9.5 v from socket terminal to socket body or directly to battery or some know body ground? It will put the voltage loss on the other side of your probes. You need to check the resistance of the socket body to the negative terminal of the battery. You can use either an ohm meter or a light bulb and the brightness will tell you alot. Now you are checking each component of the circuit rather than multiple components. For me it is just quicker and simpler without alot of thinking.

You lost a ground. Start with the right turn signal and probably right on the socket. The power back feeds through the other filament and uses a ground from another light or whatnot. Noting which lights are dim and under what condition can help locate the bad grounds.

The 86 bumper only had one set of holes, 26 inches apart. Sorry, no help, but I'd go for the outboard ones.

Could one set of holes be for the brush guard? I bought those Marchals through the dealer for my new 86 XJ in my richer days. I'll have to check which holes I used when I get home. There probably were directions with the kit as to which holes to use. Probably still have the directions too. As for the light pattern. These are the only fog lights I have had and I didn't think the pattern was so flat. To keep the reflection off the fog to a minimum, they have to be angled down quite a bit. I have the lenses almost vertical and they're great for rain and snow, but I don't use them for fog.

The vacuum source on my 86 is from the junction for the heater controls which is feed via the reservoir befind the bumper. Usually there is a leak somewhere in that line. Down at the axle you will see three lines, probably blue, white or yellow, and green. It sounds like the axle disconnect is functional. The blue line vacuum engaged it and once it is engage then vacuum is directed to the green line which turns on the indicator light. The other line, white/yellow is used to disengage the axle and hold it. Note, the system is designed to always have vacuum in one or the other line.(oxymoron?) You need to get vacuum to the selector and confirm that it it changes the vacuum route, blue for engage and white/yellow for disengage. If the selector lines are off, with this description you should be able to figure out which one goes where. Under the hood on the right fender, there are some check valves and filters. These probably are functioning but really doesn't affect anything. No vacuum is required to engage the transfer case to make the front drive shaft to rotate. It's all mechanical. And again the light really only indicates that the axle disconnect as moved to the engaged position and has now directed the vacuum to the light switch.

There should be three vacuum lines to the transfer case, blue, red and yellow if I recall. One is vacuum supply and then the 4WD selector directs vacuum through eiter one of the others. One to engage the axle and one to disengage. Check to see if the selector still performs that function and then check to see if the part on the axle still works. If either one doesn't, you can always permanently engage the axle. Check the transfer case too. Engage it and see if the front drive shaft rotates. I don't understand the scary noises. There are two separate events when 4WD is engaged. The vacuum only is involved with connecting the right drive shaft. The transfer case is all internal. If that is making noises, that's a whole other problem.

Hey, why must people call it a Hitler mustache? Charlie Chaplin and Oliver Hardy (Laurel and Hardy) had them before they even knew about Hitler. No reason to believe it wasn't around before but now it has a bad name. I prefer to go with the comical slant.

There are many here who say use washers to keep the axle engage, and there are many posts. It's also very easy to check to see if it still works. Just run a good vacuum line to it and see if it works. (Taking the vacuum motor off the axle makes it easy to check) If so then trace the vacuum lines and check them here and there. There is vacuum to the selector on the case and it just reroutes the vacuum to engage or diengage. The light is to go on once engaged and then the vacuum is directed to the light switch. Very likely you have a clogged line or a hole. Your choice, but I'm just saying it usually doesn't take much to get it working again.

Wow, you dug this one out of the past. I finally saw a generic bed liner retainer clip. It was a plastic cam type that would wedge under the bed rail. Someone actually had some 'AMC' clips on ebay but the picture didn't explain much and were very small. Anyway, I got 4 drawer locks from a hardware store and opened up the 1/2 inch hole in the liner to accept them. The barrel holds the liner down and the lock bar goes behind the bed rail flange. This arrangement gives me access to the cavities in front and behind the fender well.