jaekl

This oil leakage/seepage problem pops up quite often. There has been many posts mentioning oil being collected or blow by. Is this a common problem? Yet I don't recall any posts ending with "I got it fixed" It seems to me that most cases have to be an internal engine problem. If it was a easy external fix, where are the solutions? Correct me if I wrong. A working systems brings air thru the filter into the valve cover while pulling the dirty air into the intake. If oil is getting into the air filter, the engine is leaking combustion faster than the vacuum line can take it away so it starts finding ways out like the air filter and any little hole. In a normal engine there isn't oil puddling up there. It leaks right down. Replacing valve cover gasket is only going to move the leak. In this case he had oil in the air filter until renewing the CCV system and now it is leaking elsewhere. I think he has blow by. What are the successful solutions? My experience is with the 4 cylinder, but aren't the L6 the same design? My one owner (me) started oozing at abot 16 years and found the vacuum line clogged. Now the engine is almost leakfree again 6 years later. However, my other one was found for sale because of major blow by with a open CCV so oil was blowing out. Turned out to be 2 pistons with holes. I hope someone has an easy fix for this guy.

Check the vacuum lines. If oil seems to be everywhere, chances are the crankcase has positive pressure. Check the line from the valve cover. It's probably clogged.

That looks like a baffling baffle. My quess it is to maintain fuel supply for the pump as the level goes down while you're sloshing the fuel. I don't see any holes to let the fuel flow, but your pictures look like the fuel is at the same level. Could you use the pump for your trip? The gauge or the inlet could bottom out before the tank is empty but might run out of gas unexpectantly.

There is no repair. The end of the cable rusts away and falls off. When the windows are up the end is sitting in the bottom of the door and is sitting in water. Mine went in 11 years. The whole assembly needs to be replaced. It's hit or missed with used ones. My parts car was in excellent shape so in they went.

There's always the default indicator. Look out the window. If the scenery goes front to back you are in D. If the scenery is moving and the engine is off, you're in N. What about after dark? Turn on the illumination (headlights). Sorry, I'm having a slow day.

If the legend is that sometime during 86 the firewall was modified to accept the future production 4.0 inline 6, did they change the hood latching at the same time or was that implemented only when the 4.0 was actually used? However, they did make the latch change across the board for the 2.5 as well. Somebody should have some information after all these years as to when the change was made such as serial number. I have a 86 and I'm happy with the 2.5. Just wondering which version I have.

I'm amased that some factory gauges still have actual values on them. I thought the manufactures realized that years ago that they were not calibrated. The driver is only to monitor them to observe changes from normal. Typical temp gauge is CNNNNNNNNH.

Oh thanks for the cabin fever. Us Northerners don't need to see pictures like those this time of the year. The truck looks good too.

Oh thanks for the cabin fever. Us Northerners don't need to see pictures like those this time of the year. The truck looks good too.

You didn't mention what was wrong with the inertia reel. Mine failed a couple years back. It wouldn't retract. I took it apart and found the spring was broken. I took it out and reversed the wind on it after I taped the broken pieces together. Yes, taped. There is plenty of spring length and the taped end is securely buried in the center. It might not be as strong retracting as it was initially and the belt is shorter than the distance to the break. I figure I'm good for the rest of the vehicle life. Besides the retracting mechanism has nothing to do with occupant restraint. That is the inertia part.

If you choose to keep your CAD, check all of the vacuum lines. There are three lines. One to engage, one to turn the light on after it is engaged, and the third to disengage it. Mine was not engaging because there was a clog in one of the metal lines. There are also a couple of check valves. I think the valves are to maintain the light function and to bleed off the vacuum when disengaged so the light goes out. Don't worry too much about the check valves. Just trace the vacuum through the system to find a leak or a clog. From memory the red line in the photo is manifold vacuum, yellow is CAD engage, green is disengage, blue is vent, and white (farther downstream) is light.

Absolutely, the radio was an option. My 86 has no speaker grills in the door panels, so I used the plugs under the dash when I added the radio.

It's obvious now. Your truck is possessed and now we know how WI get all of their deals. They put a curse on the truck and wait until the owner gives up and comes in for the kill. Maybe the Dell guy can hepl you. Listen to this web site. http://www.ebaumsworld.com/audio/play/5719 Sorry I could get the link to post right today. In all seriousness with all of the relays and switches pulled and only the lights are on (side lights too?), you now have full contact between a lighting wire and a hot wire. The only possible sources are harness power, started cable, and maybe lighter. The radio/clock memory doesn't have enough juice. Follow these wires checking for worn insulation. Isolate them and start at the battery and add one wire at a time. Electricity is tricky and can backfeed where you don't expect, so disconnect everything and add piece at a time to isolate the problem. Otherwise you need to follow and inspect every lighting wire unless it is just the headlights. You've gone for little contact (dim light) to good full contact.

My speed related shake turned out to be an out of round tire. Switch wheels front to rear and try it.

Isn't it just a matter of extending the adjustment rod on the XJ handbrake assembly so that you can reach the MJ cables? That would be a simple piece to make.

A word of caution. Don't let any moisture, especially, salty moisture get in there between the old frame and the plate. It will rust very fast. Double metal reinforcements are always the areas that rust out first. Over the years I've seen many 'patched' areas rust right out again because the old metal was not removed behind the patch. I remember that there are some 'weldable' precoat material to protect the steel. It will act like an insulator for the galvanic cell between the two layers of steel

"Dodge Chrysler needs to sell off Jeep, before they totally ruin it's reputation" If you think about, maybe Chyrsler should sell Jeep before it kills them. Are any of the previous owners of Jeep still around? Is it a curse?

Dig the early turn ins. Cold snow isn't a bad driving surface. Here in PA we seldom enjoy that treat. How is balmy WI where a great many Sweds emigrated?

I've consistently gotten 23.5mpg for 22 years with 86 2.5 5 speed Cherokee. The 88 2.5 4 speed MJ does as well. The Cherokee seems to get better in 4wd. The only maintenance has been fuel filter and plugs at 30,000. The only time I got less (significantly less) was when I borrowed the injector and torn the Oring. Put a new one in and the mileage was back to 23.5. Check the Oring around the injector body.

Don't forget the biggest recycling we all are doing and that reusing is even better than recycling. Maintaining/rebuilding 20 year old vehicles is a huge saving of resources particularly energy. It takes less energy to recycle metal that starting fresh, but it takes a whole lot less to keep using the metal as is.

Since the XJ/MJ were created during the Renault days and have the Renault 'pedestal seats', can anybody confirm that Alliance seats are the same but with different floor mounting brackets. That sure would increase the number of 2 door seats. By a factor of 2. No not 2 times, by 2! The next question. Does anybody know where the Alliances went? Maybe we can import seats from France.

The vacuum reservoir had 2 hoses connected. (A single connection was used later) Your leak can be anywhere between the manifold and the heater. I had leaking hoses under the battery. You need to trace the lines back checking for vacuum at each connection in order to locate the loss of vacuum.

It is hard to understand the many changes that even AMC made to the cluster over the years. I investigated this very thoroughly in 1986. After studing the wiring diagram, I determined the the vehicle's wiring is compatible for no gauges or full gauge cluster. The junkyard yielded a 85 cluster and worked great in a 86 Cherokee, but the design of the gauges were different due to a cost reduction in gauge design. When I got my 88 MJ and plugged in a earlier full cluster everything worked except the speedo due to cable change. However you can't put a post 87 speedo in a older cluster because the plastic housing is different. Within a given a year I think there are 3 different housings/circuits, no gauge, no tach, and full. You can't just plug in a smaller fuel gauge and a tach, it's a different cluster. From what I've seen/done all (blue face) clusters are electrically interchangeable but have physical differences. If the plug fits, it should work.

How often do you have to move the in-laws? Are they a problem?

Are there snychros on reverse? Sounds more like the clutch is not fully engaging and the snychro on first adds enough friction to stop input shaft rotation. Then gets it into reverse before it has a chance to start spinning again.