ratrapp

thats what i was mostly looking for was if anybody new for 100 percent they were longer or not.

i found a good deal on a 4wd transmission and transfer case and driveshafts for my 86 2.8 truck.does anybody know if the speedometer cable is the same for a 2wd and 4wd?rockauto doesnt specify,just says without cruise control which it doesnt have.

i think you need to take a step back and start over.you need to verify fuel pressure with an actual gauge.if you have adequate pressure then use a noid light and verify you have injector pulse.if all is good then get a spark tester and check spark.if you have spark then get a compression gauge and check all 6 cylinders.all of these tools can be bought cheap enough at harbor freight.these are tools you will probably use again anyway.its not super common but i have had to replace the coil and control module on a few renix era mjs and xjs over the years.

definitly get the mj specific pans.i used the xj pans because at the time keyparts hadnt made the mj pans yet.there is alot of cutting hammering and cussing involved using the xj style.i ordered off of keyparts ebay store and didnt have any problems.

i don't know if the water pump is your problem but years ago when i still had my 88 i used the flowkooler pump to replace my pump.the pump didnt last a year before the bearing went out.the pump didnt cool any better than the parts store gmb brand.i had used the high flow t stat housing as well and it never sealed up right.i put the stock housing back on and it sealed up fine.i bought these things from hesco years ago and they prety much told me no warranty.most of the factory parts are fine and manage to keep the 4.0 cool under normal circumstances.

believe it or not bad or severely out of balance tires will cause death wobble.

ive never heard of checking a track bar unbolted from one end or another.bolt the track bar in and have someone rock the steering wheel left and right and watch for movement at the joint and at the bushing.

i only run 30-32 in my 2wd with 235s.the trucks arent that heavy to begin with.alittle extra tire pressure is okay but people maxing out by whats on the sidewall can cause premature center tire wear.

exactly.i ve told alot of my customers that complain about brake dust.i try to explain to them the dust is a byproduct of the pads actually working.i know some may leave more residue than others but if they are too clean that means theyre not doing much.

save yourself some work and just replace the calipers.theyre not super expensive and itll save you time and aggravation in the long run.if the bleeders snap off it a pita to get them out.

if your not using submersible hose,it'll swell up and burst or it'll pop back off eventually.regular efi fuel pressure hose is not the same as submersible hose.the hose is expensive and most part stores don't carry it in stock.usually the hose that comes with a new pump is submersible.

is the cam gear chewed up as well as the dist gear?

yeah ive got the spacer,master cylinder and prop valve all together.i had already deleted the load leveling valve in the back.i never could get fluid to come through it.it had sat several years in the woods before i got it.

the 99 booster is slightly different than the 95-96 booster.I'm using the 95-96 booster.when i did this swap on my old 88 all i did was grind a flat on the rod to accept the older style brake light switch.i was asking to see if anything needs to be clearanced for the booster to clear the firewall or anything else.

i used e redhead box on a customers 96bronco and it was only marginally better than the worn out stocker.used a psc replacement on my old 95 zj with stock tires and no lift and was disappointed as well.they all worked and didnt leak but didnt seem to offer much better steering feel.

the 95-96 booster is the dual diaphram and is longer and thicker than the original style over all mj boosters.it worked fine in my old 88 but the 86 seems to e the bastard child of mjs.

i know the 86 has differences that the 87 ups don't have.i did the booster/master cylinder upgrade on my old 88 but i passed my 86 on to my nephew for his first vehicle.ive already bypassed the leaking load leveling valve.ive got the parts just don't know if anybody has actually done the 86 if there are any slight differences that i need to plan for.

you can tell its been replaced before which actually means nothing.I'm sure a lack of greasing it can have made it go bad if its bad.if you do replace it you'll need to rock the steering wheel to get the bar back in place as the front end will shift some when its removed.

is the cam gear chewing up as well?unfortunatly think about where the metal from the gear has went through the engine,twice now.

thats actually the joint end,the other end has the bushing.

i second the luk clutchs.good clutchs if you use them for what there intended to be used for.thats the only clutch i use in my shop for the last 10 years and i havent a had single one die or fail prematurely.

been having brake light issues.found the culprit.the original spacer,2 plastic bushings and bolt have been replaced with just a bolt.looking for everything minus the switch,thanks

this is just another example of used is better than new.i see it everyday at my shop.

yeah you used a 78 dt which has both side and top terminals where a standard 78 has just side posts.

thanks guys,i 'm going to make the 58 fit but if the poor 2.8 survives long enough to outlast this battery ill go with a 34 or 78.