ratrapp

my driver side seat has about had it.my gf complains when she drives it that it leans(i'm used to it).i've searched the j/y and they don't have any cherokee or mj seats that are any better shape than mine.they do have plenty of zj seats that are in nice shape.i don't care about the recline feature as my driver seat quit reclining years ago.what's involved in swapping out to the zj seats?thanks.

if there is anyone in the lynchburg/rustburg area that needs a good mj tailgate there are 2 nice shape tailgates at the cunningham brothers pick n pull in rustburg.there are no taillights though.the trucks may have some decent parts left.one is a 2wd the other 4wd.one is a 4cyl and the other is a 6 cyl.the trucks don't stay long as they constantly crush and move inventory.just wanting to let members know.

i think i'll just stick to a one piece axle swap.it needs to be taken apart and the seals replaced anyway.

you just need a big torx socket.i think it's a 50 or 55 to get the lower bolt out.there not very hard to do.

if you don't have intermittent wipers then i don't think you have a wiper module.so probably not that.

check your wiper module under the dash below the steering column.if it's not plugged in all the way it'll act funny or it may just be bad.also did you bolt the motor completly down?thats where i think it grounds itself.

your more likely to find them in a cherokee than a mj.

my front axle seals are starting to leak alittle after 23 years and i thought i would replace the two piece with a one piece while it was apart.i've got a friend with a tj that we replaced his axles with usa alloy axles and he said i could have the passenger side one since his original drive side broke anyway so that should be a near freebie.does anybody have a part#for the kit to replace the passenger seal and actuator housing.i've looked under randys and just differentials but didn't see anything there.i'm probably not going to replace the transfer case as it still works great and hasn't been touched in the last 23 years except for change to redline fluid about 10 years ago.i would just to do away with the actuator and damn mess of vacuum hoses.

i'm thinking about removing the two piece cad axle and seeing if you can just install a newer single axle and add some type of seal to the old two piece housing.also has anyone noticed a decrease in fuel economy when changing from a cad to non cad style axle?also is there a transfer case that doesn't use vacuum that will bolt straight up to my aw4 without changing driveshafts or anything esle?i know the vacuum only runs the front axle and would be not needed anyway when or if i go to a single passenger side axle but i would like to eliminate some more useless vacuum hoses and junk.

i did use the 91-up fuel lines and tb.i bought the hesco tps adapter to reuse my stock renix tps.i had already replaced the injectors with the four hole pintle style awhile back.i had already put a high flow catco converter and 2 1/2 exhaust with a 2 chamber flowmaster on last year.i am going to replace the exhaust manifold and down pipe soon and see if it's really holding it back any.

not all zj's had cv style axles.my gf's 95 zj has regular u-joint style axles and 3.73 gears.

i did the head swap using a 93 head and 99-up intake.aside from fixing the oil leaking head gasket i seen no improvement in power or fuel economy.i do need to change my exhaust manifold to a ho style but i can't see it holding it back that much.i wasted a couple hundred dollars on the swap.maybe my shortblock is that worn out but i wouldn't waste my time doing it either.

mine overheats on the interstate only with the a/c on.well,it doesn't overheat but climbs farther over 210 than i like to see.it has a new waterpump,radiator converted to open cooling,mopar 195 t-stat.i can run 55-60 mph with the a/c on all day long but once it hits 65-75 mph with the a/c on for more than 5 miles it slowly climbs up.i even replaced the headgasket and head and it didn't make a difference.without the a/c on it doesn't get any warmer than normal.i'm thinking partially clogged cat as it's about 11 years old and does seem a little low on power.

my gauge reads full when i fill it up but it doesn;t move until it's down to about half a tank then it starts working.it reads full and empty right but anything inbetween is sketchy.i figure as long as empty and full are right i can live with it especially since they don't make new gauge floats assemblys.

things like sending units and sensors need to be oem.i put 3 coolant gauge switchs in my stepdaughters 96 ford contour.all three read different and wrong.an oem ford switch fixed it.

my grandmother bought it when it had 8k miles on it and less than ayear old.the original owner traded it in on a new mustang convertible at the local ford dealership.my grand mother drove it until my grandfather couldn't drive a stick shift anymore so then he drove it.then he had his licensce taken away so it got passed to me in early 2000 and i've been driving it ever since and will until either me or it's not able.it's only got 173k miles so i figure it's good for a few more.

i put their 4.5 lift on my buddys 04 rubicon.the sway bar links are junk and after 6 months the track bar heim joints are shot.thank god i got away from lifted jeeps after my last 79 cj7 and 77 cj5.

the part #for the a/t kit is 83-100-066 and for a manual is 83-100-063

i did a valve job on an early 90s 4.3 astro van about year and half ago.about a week later the rear main started pouring and he was out of money.i told him to try the bars leak stuff.he added one can and it slowed it down.another can later and it stopped.it doesn't leak till this day.i wouldn't use it on my stuff but don't wouldn't hold it against anybody for trying it.

when i go to work tommorow i'll get the mopar part# off the box for you.i ran it through my shop account and it cost me about$89.try to run it through a garage account and save yourself some money.

did notice this afternoon when i went to leave work that i slightly held the throttle open and it cranked right up.need to do more investigation.

my carter had gotten loud and it died just a month ago.i replaced it with an airtex and it's pretty quiet so far.

right range plugs,same champion plugs that i've always run.injectors i may give a try.i've replaced 4 of them but i did ntice that when it's hard to start that it does blow a little black smoke out of the tailpipe when it does finally start like it had lightly flooded.i may start it up and let it run a while and cut it off and pull the rail and injectors out and see if any of them leak gas out.the crankshaft sensor is a mopar piece that they made a tsb for renix style 4.0 that eliminates the bulkhead connector and improves the crank signal but unfortunatly that wasn't my case.

88 4.0 renix.when it's cold or parked overnight it starts right up which kind of eliminates the fuel pump leaking down.i just replaced the crankshaft sensor with the mopar one that straight wires it to the computer.i thought that fixed it but it started doing it again.when i drive it to work and it sits 9 hours before i restart it i have to crank it several time before it fires.it cranks over fine,just won't hit.i even tried cycling the key several times before i crank it to see if it's the fuel pump dropping pressure but it doesn't help.i just replaced the plugs cap and rotor when i replaced the head with a ho model.it done it before i replaced the head so i can't lie fault with that.i have never replaced the coil/module or the pick-up plate in dist. but i did replace the dist about 10 years ago because of corrosion in it.any suggsetions appreciated.

did he have the gasket flipped over?if so the top holes won't line up but the bottoms will.