AeroNautical

Maybe the tach itself failed? Does the tach read from the distributor? I figure if the engine runs fine, it can't be anything to do with the ignition coil or distributor. I thought the tach read from a different sensor all together.

Is the leak coming from the bellhousing? Drain plug, fill plug? If it is the bellhousing, there is a possibility your rear main seal is bad on the engine. Do you know for sure it's gear oil burning and not engine oil?

A teacher once told me "You must learn mathematics, do you think when your older you'll always have a calculator in your pocket?". Hmm... Not just a calculator, an infinite wealth of information, as well. HA! WHAT NOW MS. RICH? (just kidding, stay in school kids)

It's mixed, my 88 has AMC all over it, EXCEPT on the intake manifold, which has a Chrysler star.

I assume your truck is an automatic, so it has a bit of forward pull when in gear. It could be a number of things, dragging brakes, bad wheel bearings, improper differential gearing. A 35 is a big tire, and alot of mass to move. I wouldn't be too terribly concerned about it once you've checked what I mentioned above and they are good.

In the words of Bob Dylan: "It makes me ashamed to live in a land where justice is a game".

In, as a guy who works with tires all the time, make it easier on the people who install them. If it's out, that's alot of scrubbing and rubbing to get the blue protective film off. It can be very stubborn. Easily adds 5 to 10 minutes to however long your truck was already in the shop.

Battery and starter check out, starter relay is my next guess, what all runs through it? Not just yet Shawn, this happened yesterday and I'm confident I can get it road worthy again within another day. If not, I'll let you know.

And for anything behind the cab, a Junkyard and occasionally rockauto.com will have what you need.

I just replaced the ignition switch, I had the key in to prevent the wheel from locking and as soon as I connected it I heard a fuel pump. Good news right? Other than forgetting to disconnect the battery, haha. Go to start it, same issue. Battery cable connections are new, grounds are refreshed. Maybe it's shorting in the starter? Could that cause it?

...that a simple $13 relay center could kill our trucks? I pulled up to a gas station yesterday, everythings fine, shut her off and fill her up. I see an IMMACULATE black and gold trimmed MJ pull up a few pumps away, so I hop in to go BS with him. Turn the key, hear the fuel pump, start it and every electrical system shuts off. I try it again and now no power at all, no matter how many times I turn the key. Occasionally I'll get a light to turn on and the fuel pump to prime, but I go to crank and everything shuts off. First thought was the battery cells. Luckily, advance was right down the road, and I was heading to the JY, so I had all my tools with me. Took the battery and tested it. Checked out perfect. Also tried jumping the starter with a wrench and a thick glove, saw a spark, but no spin. Next thought was the ignition switch. I've heard if they go bad, everything fails. What scares me, though, is the headlights don't even turn on. You don't need a key to turn them on, but I HOPE they run through that switch. Otherwise, I've got bigger problems. Maybe a short? So that's my next project, installing this switch. If this doesn't work, though, what else could it be? I've heard of these failing before, but usually with a warning sign, like turn signals that don't work, or blower motors that don't turn on. Thoughts? Battery is 6 months old, starter is newer than that. Update 1: Ignition switch replaced with no change Update 2: On the rare occurrence I get power to everything, instead of turning the key to start the engine, I jump the starter with a wrench. No go, and all power goes out again. That REALLY sounds like the starter is my issue here. Ways to troubleshoot? Update 3: Fixed. Turns out it was the ignition switch, but the push rod wasn't lined up perfectly. The old one failed, and the new one was intermittent. So, a new ignition switch and ignition relay came of it, and it runs buttery smooth. my volt meter in the dash stays at a constant 14 volts, even with all accessories on. Good things to replace after 26 years, even if they haven't failed.

I owe this truck, and Ryan, my comanche and then some. He saved me a whole lotta frustration by telling me how to start a hydrolocked engine, drove me off the trail and to autobone to get the parts I needed, and back out on the trail to help me put it all together. Started up and we wheeled the rest of the day. Awesome truck, and awesome dude.

Really? I thought they only put that style of half door on the TJs, hard to tell from this angle. Just looked it up and your absolutely right, I always thought the definitive way to tell a TJ and YJ apart was the headlights and suspension, but the placement of the wrangler tab, and roll bar style are giveaways too.

This is gonna be awesome, and reminds me alot of what this guy did to his: His is a TJ from the looks of it.

Sounds like a worn tie rod end on the RH side. You may not be able to wiggle it by hand, but under the load of the truck in a turn, it might wiggle enough to cause a shimmy or sudden yank.

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/4903523486.html Saw this a few days ago, kinda cool. Good to see other MJ owners near where I live, too! Or MJ owners to be, atleast.

Camshaft, that's right. I knew it was one of the spinny rods, haha.

I'd go ahead and stop cranking the engine if it's not lubricating, first off. The oil pump will be the least of your worries if you keep that up. From the sounds of it, yes, it's a bad pump. It's a mechanical pump, geared to the crankshaft I believe. How did the gears look when you took it off? Did you mesh them correctly when re installing it? There is a chance your bearings are bad, too, which would cause low oil pressure.

Hey, the comanche emblem is still good! Not a lost cause!

That's one clean engine bay!

I thought it was to more easily troubleshoot electrical components that ran through it. I eliminated mine and it lowered the voltage from one side to the other as well, going from larger to smaller gauge wires. I too am curious!

Wait a minute, they had to have a sensor in each of those components to read where the fluid level was? And I can't even begin to imagine how it knows if your brake pads are good. All that extra wiring!

Got it, installed it: Love it, nice big opening and tint. Bit of a pain to install, but worth it. Just need to find all my old bumper stickers again! haha

Sounds like our UH-60s have their work cut out for them, relief and what not.. We need a machine to remove the snow without the need for a plow, or space to move it to. A machine that is quick and easy to operate. Fun even....

Holy Buck that's awesome! Looks like I stepped into a Cabelas, Bass Pro Shops and Cracker Barrel all at the same time!