AeroNautical

Looks like it would float too. Those gull wings are awesome.

I have the 16 gallon, so I guess it really won't work. I thought it might because there is a place for a third tank strap that isn't used with the 16, but to be safe I'll just get another SWB tank. Thanks

Turns out the tank is cracked above the skid plate. I need a new tank anyway. So, I have a short bed, will a long bed tank work? Since I'm at it, I'm sure I can upgrade my 16 gallon to a 23.5 if it'll fit.

Lock ring kit. No lube, but used a gas proof sealant. Sending unit is tight enough to scare me when i yank it out and am thankful it didnt spark.

First style i used was square cut, came with the rebuild kit when i got the pump. Second go was round cut, same size, but bought at advance auto.

This'll be the third time ive had to drop my tank to replace the seal where the pump and lock ring are. Each time ive done it, it goes for MONTHS without leaking, having held the tank upside down each time it was replaced to make sure there are no leaks, and one day it always decides after a fill up to start pissing itself. Am i missing something on installation? It can't be anymore centered, and it obviously does work. Its almost like gasoline is eating through the gasoline proof seal.

Where in Charlotte are you? Probably right down the street from me, haha.

It's been a little while since I've updated this. Buncha new stuff. Most notable are the OEM rollbar, LEDs and rear bumper: JCR DIY rear MJ bumper. Figured it'd be a fun welding project... Don't make fun of my beads. Battle scars from my once near perfect body MJ, feel kinda bad, haha. Buds bad @$$ YJ:

The "driveshaft" leading from the steering wheel to the gear box, is there any play in the u-joints? My sisters TJ had a similar issue, it would wander and not track true, even with good steering components. Found out that shafts' u-joints had considerable play, and we replaced it with a jy shaft with good joints and it stopped wandering. Do you have power steering?

78 pictures? Now THAT'S how you sell a Jeep. Most dudes on craigslist can't even post one.

I've seen 44" swampers on an MJ before, you'll probably want f-350 super duty axles. Honestly, I would never go larger than a 35" tire, in which case an 8.8 would be fine for you, though you'd be pushing what a D30 can do.

Maybe with its own section, with a hierarchy like this: Product Reviews> Suspension Components> Rough Country> User Reviews> Iron Rock Offroad> User Reviews> Lighting> JCWhitney> User Reviews> Rough Country> User Reviews> Tires/Wheels> BF Goodrich> User Reviews> Goodyear> User Reviews> Micky Thompson> User Reviews> As an example. With how many brands are out there, though, it may be hard to list them all.

I'd have a few reviews to write right off the bat, I'm all for this idea!

I just put an OEM roll bar on my MJ and wanted to keep a tool box, you just saved me alot of searching!

Which is why I think you might be right about the hubs or something similar. I can't even trial and error it right now because it's too warm outside, it's not making the sound.

The sound is in the "video" above, not a gurble, but a scraping sound. Turning doesn't affect the sound, either. I recorded it this morning when it was chilly, but this afternoon it didn't make any noise at all because it was about 65 degrees. THAT's what confuses me.

Trying to do 10 things at once, I kind of rushed the recording. Sorry. I got up to third, but gear doesn't matter. It sounds like it's coming from the transmission tunnel, but sounds are deceiving. The sound is almost constant through the entire video, that metallic scraping sound. The microphone was in the cupholder in my center console.

I recorded the sound as best as I could: https://youtu.be/VZs6kZ8Jyhc

That's a good heads up, I'll see if I can recreate it with one wheel in the air. Speed doesn't affect it, though. Just temperature.

I'm getting a metallic grinding noise in colder outside temperatures (40 and below), I believe is coming from my AX-15. Shifting is unaffected, no vibrations, bolts are tight, checked all driveshafts to see if they may be rubbing on something. The kicker is, when I first bought the truck, it made this noise around the same temp, with the stock 4.0 and tranny, 2wd. Now, since I've swapped the engine, tranny, added a transfer case, new front and rear axles and driveshafts, the noise is still here. It's unaffected by the clutch or RPM of the engine. Engine could be off, but with forward momentum, the noise will continue, even in neutral, so that eliminates the front portion of the AX-15 that spins with the engine. 45 and above temps eliminate the noise entirely, but if the temp stays 40 and below, regardless of how warm the drivetrain gets, the sound continues. It's pretty frustrating not having a real idea as to what is wrong. Has anyone had this experience before? I'll try to record the sound and upload it next chance I get. Tracking down a noise over the internet is damn near impossible, too, but maybe explaining the circumstances a little might help out. Thanks.

The Renix era (yours) MJs had a closed cooling system, so they had to be manually burped of air. To do so is tough, I got so fed up with trying to burp mine I just switched to open cooling. Ideally you'd want a vacuum kit that sucks all the air out of the system, and forces coolant in it's place. Without that, it's alot of trial and error, opening and closing the coolant bottle over and over until the air eventually leaves the system, and even then if your on a hill or something, not all that air will escape.

Alright, 4.56 and no Lunchbox (on the road more than off). Maybe I'll just grab a Detroit Trutrac for the rear and call it good.

I had a tight budget when I did my 4wd swap, so I put my SOA 8.25 in and used XJ shackles to lower it some to make the forward slant more bearable on stock front suspension. My pinion angle was off with them on, but that can be fixed with shims. They lowered me about 1.5 inches. I don't know about shackle invert, but it worked fine for me the short time I had them on.

Great advice, 4.56 it is. As for the locker, I can't afford a selectable, so the lunchbox locker, or a Detroit Tru-Trac (LSD) for either the front or rear. Is there a benefit of having it in the front over the rear? Would the front ratchet in 2wd? I've found myself on more than one occasion getting stuck in mud, I've gotta have something. I hate mud, but it's a necessary evil getting some places. Thanks.

A topic that's been beaten to death, but I've got a more unique scenario I think: I have a 98 XJ 29 spline 8.25, and a 99 XJ HP Dana 30. Geared for 3.55, I grabbed them from auto XJs when I did my 2 to 4wd swap. I run 33s. I've got engine mods that boost my 4.0 30+ HP and torque, making it manageable, but not ideal. I pull a 1000+ lbs trailer, and I've gotta slip first. (AX-15) Quoted about $1200 for a re-gear either 4.10 or 4.56. I'm unsure which would suit me best. She's on the road alot, a DD, but crawls every other weekend. I want OK gas mileage (I get about 17MPG on my 3 1/2 hour drives to Raleigh as of now), but also want pretty good torque when pulling a trailer or crawling a rock. I can google all day long and get mixed feelings about either ratio. It won't be easy, but if I choose 4.10, I could find an 8.8 with an LSD and weld perches on and just pay to regear the D30, save a butt load of money. Or, if I choose 4.56, I'd have to pay for 2 regears, I really doubt I'd find them in a JY, and invest in an overall weaker axle (29 spline 8.25), without an LSD or locker. Also, if I'm paying to regear the D30 either way, how do you feel about a lunchbox locker in it? I've heard when power isn't applied, the locker is open. Pop it in 4-wheel, and chances are you have enough tire slippage for it to behave just fine. Opinions, thoughts, gripes and insults are all welcome. Comments about everything I've mentioned here will be most helpful. Thanks.