wolfpackjeeper

wow, you guys build the big pretty ones. I used to just make variations on an ugly stick or joy stick, ones that don't make you cry when you lose it to an aero competion. Then put the beefiest landing gear and the best motor I had available in. I never really just loved the building process, just the touch and go and dixie death competitions. Combat was fun too. I got into profile models, thinking about getting back into it actually. my next 6 months will be nothing but ground school and Nav school. I start in 2 weeks hopefully, will fly the T-6 texan2 for around 40 flights this go around.

dual race car waterbeds, my friend, would be super badass

I would get a high flow cat, not remove it. Taking it completely out will take the bottom end power right out of the equation, which would suck. Look into upgrading to the better cam. (interested in that Mopar stage 3, your friend has Pete) Header's are available, they are still made for 4cyl wranglers and should work fine. You can open up the head with some work, and it would improve. Look into swapping to the MPI setup, found in 1995 wranglers I think. A guy on NAXJA has done it, think he is on here too. Took the entire engine harness and computer for an MPI setup and grafted it into the MJ. I am slowly planning my 4cyl build out. I could switch to a 6cyl, but why. This truck is a DD/project truck, and the 6cyl is heavy. Looking to end up with a rebuilt 4cyl with a turbo, probably going to try to control it with a megasquirt computer system.

I am currently standing a watch on a DOD computer and cannot see your pictures. However, the yellow paste (assuming we are on the same page) is from jeep or from a factory service. The dielecric or anti corrosion grease some places use turn semi hard and yellowish with age. I cleaned mine out with qd electric cleaner and added more. Corroded bulbs suck.

a waterbed would be interesting, it should have the load capacity to handle it as well. On the other hand, I am down for whatever bed your mom likes :yes:

I wish I knew dude, I would love to find some more info. I usually dislike nerf bars also, but they really do something for this. It does seem to be just about right, without going into the overzealous category. my inspiration too, but it's ok, we can share.

DUDE, John Deers are green so they can hide in the grass when a real tractor comes by.

I was going to suggest a keyed alike set and be done, advance sells them. But I never lock my glove box so I am not worried about it. I have ripped enough of them at the junkyard open to know How easy it is, so I stopped locking mine.

Yea, it looks nice laying like that. Is there any bed in there at all? Do you have pictures of the rear setup? I want to get mine down about 3in to see where it sits. Get it looking something like this: those look a little smaller but the picture title says 20's. I would like to fit 18's really well. possibly bigger, but 18's look nice on a lot of things.

3 ft of lift, got any pictures?

not stuffed in there like that I have seen a picture of a black lowered MJ with some 20" 5 spokes that looked great.

you can swap the block and head over and use your wiring, see a little bit of a gain from the newer head, but you will need to bring the entire computer over to be sure, as well as all the wiring. The computer tuning is the major difference. You should be able to just swap the block and head and use your wiring, but you will need to splice some of the sensor wires over, I am not completely positive, but I think it is the TPS and Map sensors that are different plugs. As far as I know, the ports for the Renix sensors are still cast into the block and machined out.

I had an '02 SS that i really enjoyed for a while. Left rear looks like it could use a bit of air.

I use the term sag, because they settled past any reasonable amount. They were almost at the original ride height again. Bastard packs are cheaper that AAL's, and generally ride and flex better.

they still generally suck. One application out of thousands does not make them anything more than a band aide. I knon 5 people who have installed them on an MJ or XJ, and they all sagged within a year.

Everyone on this order paid money back in August, then waited to have it shipped. Besides the fact that our order is getting refunded, the only way you could get parts out of this order would be if someone sold you theirs. You will have to set up another order, as the only way to get the parts is on a slow boat from China. Helpful Hint: on a board where the main page shows threads that are 2 days old, there is no need to bump your thread overnight, it will get seen.

there is another thread, but I shall answer anyway. you will need a socket, it is called an inverted torx socket. Looks like the star bits but the female, socket end. Without it you will round off the bolt as nothing is quite close enough to do this without rounding it. I will see if I can go find mine to let you know what size in a few, I am not quite sure where it is, neighbor may have it. Just get a set if you have to, worth it imho.

nice more pictures

Que?

I think I have a watercooled chopsaw I can get my hands on for about 20 minutes, should negate most of the tempering that would occur. This is really just so I can see if I like the drop, want more or want less. The yards around here should have the springs, just would like to see the look first before I spend any more money. I have an extra set of springs to cut, so worst case scenario is that I hate it and I swap them right back out.

I may go ahead and try to cut my springs and get the blocks before you get down here. With two of us it should not take long at all to swap to shorter springs and control arms. Blocks are cake.

yea, they are both cake as long as you are not flat on your back and trying to do it in the dark with a flashlight

sliders are so easy to do, so why not. Done right they look factory. If you use some 2x2.5 or 2x3 in tube they will not be noticeable.

as long as it is not Wednesday or Friday. I caught a watch on Wednesday sitting in the Air Wing Duty Office from 8-8. Ittl take 20 minutes on the lift.

Why do you have to discredit it by calling it an LT1? LSx series all the way.