wolfpackjeeper

condition and price? been looking to bump my cherokee another inch and a long arm setup would be great.

not sure about the downtravel bit, long arms are strait. You will rub against them at full lock. Being strait instead of bent may affect the arc the axle swings in...

yea, I ended up heat treating and destressing my 4.2 rods just for that reason. Also had them shot peened and re-machined. I ended up with between a 9.5-10 compression ratio. Good info on the 2.5, either way you look at it, it still comes down to needing a custom grind on the crank, just not the same specs as a 4.2 crank.

I have known enough people to break it that I stay away

Tailgate up. It creates the same phenomenon as a wing does to control flow separation. Ie, increases the turbulant flow allowing the air to flow over the truck better. We talked about it in class one day when I was in college, newer rally and race type cars are starting to come with small triangles on the roof in a line, they do a similar thing of breaking up the smooth air in order to allow it to flow quicker. This is not the best explanation, but much more and I have to start using words that are not in common usage and math.

my way of a stroker is not the only way. There are 2 guys finishing builds right now, that used a 4.2 crank and 4.0 rods with custom pistons.

Hmm, it was my understanding that most of the 2.5 specs are pretty darn close to the 4.0. They use the same pistons and rods, or at least the last time I looked it up they did. Could have made a mistake, it has happened once before. I will have to get up with 5-90 and pick his brain. On a thread over at naxja we were talking about building a stroker 4banger, and pretty much decided you just needed to fond or make a crank with the 4.2l throwout lengths. For my 4.7 stroker I built, I used a 4.2 crank, with 4.2 rods and .o6 oversized pistons. I actually decked the block and head about .01 or so each. Ported and polished the head, 3 angle valvejob, then seated and shimmed the springs back to stock specs. I was kinda planning on doing the same to the 2.5, with a solid bottom end and some boost you are talking about some serious horsepower in a lighter package.

right, I had a pretty long post earlier in this thread detailing where you could put one. I intend to either put one under the bed or where the spare tire goes.

I did not use any type of adhesive. It has a lip to hold it in, and the molding fits over that. I have not had any problems and have no places where it is coming back off.

I am considering it, I need to find someone to cast a crank with the same throw out as the 4.2 crank. After that you can just use the 4.2 rods and oversized pistons. Should be able to get a 3.0L or so 4 cylinder out of it.

what is up with the "optional" supercharger? if you go that route and don't want the blower I may be interested. I want some more umph for my stroker. And nothing says umph like the beautiful whine of a blower

I have already built a stroker, I know I can do that. I am in it more to see what I can do with the 4 cylinder

remote turbo setups suck it depends. You can get really good results with them, just not s great as if it were closer to the front. They do suck off road, I would not use one on a 4x4

beam axle. Stiffer springs and a good swaybar and you should be good to go.

they are another holdover from the carb era that do not work as intended in the fuel injection era. Carbs benefited from spacers and high rise manifolds, to some extent throttle body injected motors do too. However MPI setups get virtually no gain. Some throttle response to make you feel more powerful is about it.

I am building My mj for the road and strip

Depends on who you ask. They do make great top-end power, but the LT1 wins for low end torque, which is just what the doctor ordered for a daily driven regular use truck. It'll be faster for 99% of the situations it's in, but really either motor is probably overkill unless you're looking to see how quickly you can break every part on the truck or plan on spending some $$$ to do it right. +1 on the MSD, just be sure to check that the rotor hold-down bolts were properly torqued down and loc-tited, and that the timing adjustment is actually at 0* and freely moves when adjusted. meh, My LS1 in my SS made 350ftlbs of torque right at about 1800 RPM, had long tubes, a lid, and a great tune buy a local shop.

read my mind

I have a set of really thick ones to go on my 9". they are extra long "anti wrap" style perches. I think I paid 20 or so. I am pretty sure they were ruff stuff perches or some brand like that.

close... http://www.af.mil/factsheets/factsheet.asp?id=124 the new ones are a turbo prop. glass cockpit, martin baker ejection seat. Outperforms the older tweet jet trainer in every aspect. Fully Aerobatic, thing is almost as fast as our t-1 jet trainer. I do not have a good picture in photobucket, so I just linked to the AF fact sheet. those originals look great though.

replace it with an MSD opti. Or go LS1. Those motors are more fun

it probably started out life as an opaque or milky gel. It turns yellow with age.

the main problem with a turbo is fitment. It can fit with some work beside the block, but you will need a custom manifold to hold it high enough, and you will need to heat shield the turbo, the intake, and the block. Even after that you will still have some impressive underhood temps. I have seen it done where they placed the turbo where the stock air box is. You can also remote mount it. Problems with remote mounting it come with location, and what you intend to use the truck for. I am not saying that mud bogging is out of the question, but you will run the risk of cracking the turbine housing, as well as ingesting water into the compressor. Deep water crossings would be out as well. For a street truck, that is 2wd, I would remote mount it under the bed in a heart beat, in fact I want to do this on my 4cyl truck. If you relocate the spare it would fit there pretty well. You can also mount it IN the bed, but you would need to cut holes and run all the tubing, could be good if you wanted to cut holes in the bottom of the bed. Now that you have the turbo in, it is time to start thinking about what to do about fuel and timing. I would get at least the MSD timing retard box (boost regulated), and a Fuel pressure regulator that can be variably controlled from a vacuum input. If you upgrade to an OBD1 or 2 system you can get an FTC-1 split second controller to control fuel and timing. Lot of work to get it working right, but the gains can be pretty impressive.

we cleaned up my intake manifold with soda. Go to sam's and get a 10lb bag of baking soda, and get a hopper gun for the air compressor. Works great. However, it will get everywhere. It was cold when I did it. I was wearing about 4 layers and some coveralls and still ended up with it on my skin.

those are all the same block.... unless you were talking about short stroking a 400 block. And I think a 4.0 turboed is probably easier than a V8 swap. Lot of stuff to consider on the V8 fitment wise. I would personally consider doing a 4.7 stroker 4.o, easier to fit, cost as much as a good rebuild, no problems with gauges or computer tuning.