wolfpackjeeper

what toyota 2.5 gives you 320Hp? Is it turboed or supercharged. At the crank or at the wheels. My Ls1 put down 343HP at the wheels with a tune and tubes... aint nothing but a tree fitty, or 346, whatever The there is no displacement for displacement is true. And will remain so for quite some time. The only thing that seemingly breaks it is nitrous. And there is some different chemistry there making that one work. Some argue the forced induction proves it wrong, but at its roots forced induction is increasing the density of air in the cylinder, which at normal pressure would equal a larger displacement. If you take that 2.5L and bore or stroke it it will increase the displacement and increase its capacity for making HP. Comparing a new motor to a 1950's design does not disprove the adage. The old apples and oranges idea.

que?

first drill a small hole and drain out the yolk, then fill it with 2 part epoxy. You can still throw it at the car if you like, it will probably be more satisfying. I still remember from back in the day when I did this, the girl who showed up had a hard boiled egg...

That's odd. You sure it was greyhound? Reason being, a motor would be way over their weight and size limitations. :dunno: It was a few years ago, they may have changed the rules since then. It was also a bare, aluminum Lsx block from another guy's project car, so even then it may have been light enough to pass. The whole motor just breaks 300lbs, so just the block may be light enough. However, I have also heard stories of people shipping axle assemblies cross country this way. So who knows.

I have a hard time answering "gearing" when the question is "how do I make more power". Gearing is a great way to make the jeep itself quicker with the power it already makes. However it does so at the expense of top end torque and horsepower, limiting total speed. So if someone asks how to make the jeep faster or what is the best bang for the buck to make it quicker, yes. But I would not answer this for a question about what power mods to look into. Don't get me wrong, I think gearing is a great way to make a track car cut a wicked 60' or 1/8th, and it will make a lifted jeep with bigger tires feel quick again. For me it is just a semantic or philosophical difference of opinion. Power is made from the engine. That being said, I want a turboed 4cyl with 4.10 gears pushing lowpro's on my street MJ.

my buddy swears that the palletized motor someone sent him through greyhound arrived 2 weeks late. And that someone took a deuce on it...

Yea, I thought about that. The problem is, when I build my top I want it smooth, so I would like to find a way to lock the tailgate handle instead of having to figure out how to fab in a locking mech on my cover. I was going to have the cover shut, have latches on each side then just close the tailgate.

No real ways to add cheap power to the 4.0. All the "cold Air" intakes and throttle body spacers are gimmicks. To add power you either need to upgrade intake and exhaust THEN add a cam as well. Or build a stroker, add forced induction, or add nitrous. There is no replacement for displacement.

I have only heard moderately good things and some pretty bad things from them.

there were pretty lax rules when I did it. I got a foam rubber block from the pit in a gymnastics gym and cut a slit to the middle just big enough to slide the egg in. Worked great, I also put little chute on the side that the slit was on to make sure that it fell strait and the side with the slit landed up. the foam block was about 8"x8" and it was about a 2.5"slit right in the middle.

http://www.slickcar.com/productdetails. ... uctID=2412 this may be the same, one of them is not using the correct picture http://www.truckspecialties.com/poplock ... oplock.htm might be other possibilities out there. of course, I also forgot what year tailgate handles we can use. I think it might be the next earlier body style.

I am looking to build myself a custom cover inside the bed rails so it will be pretty low-profile. So a locking tailgae would be great for me.

good spot.

any 1990 or older cherokee or comanche with a manual transmission and that motor should do. I think anything older than 1995 would work with a little splicing.

^ what he said. It depends, They did some work on the ports causing just a touch of backflow in 1991 which let them lower emissions and get rid of the EGR. If it works well, then it will run fine. I have seen cars that had a huge difference with the EGR removed and ones that had no difference at all.

If they were clean and I needed them $150 is not terrible, I would try for 100. Those are comfy seats. If they are 2 door I would try to talk him down and get them.

I like it, makes me think of Easter. Nice job, I guess it was either this or you should have covered it in Louis Vutton fabric...

you can use the older style s-10 tailgate handles, was there a locking option on any of those?

$100 for shots/ and checkup on a new dog is good. $500 for nothing is crap. You made out pretty good, I have just seen too many shelters that want more stuff from you to adopt a dog then my friends did to adopt a child.

it kinda takes you knowing how a bad lifter sounds to know if they are bad. Usually a ticking sound, whinch is not very helpful since the 4.o has a very noisy drivetrain to begin with. Assuming that one or more is bad: To replace, You would pull the VC, pull the head, then use a magnet on a stick to remove the old lifters. Fill the new ones with oil and pump them a few times to get them to absorbe some oil and not start off dry. Replace all of them, they are only a few bucks each. Drop the new lifters in the holes. Then replace all the rods and rockers/hardware back where it came from. Do not mix up the valvetrain, it needs to stay matched to each valve. I would add a Zinc based additive for the first oil change period after this (oh yea, change your oil while you are at it). Something like STP oil treatment or I think the MOPAR oil additive has a bit of Zinc as well. Replace the head gasket, and Reinstall the head. If your head bolts did not have a dab of paint on them when you removed them you can re-install them, if they did or if you know that they have been re-torqued before but not marked then you will need ned head gaskets. While they are not torque to yield, you are only supposed to re-torque them once or maybe twice depending on what you read. viola

but threadjacking is fun hey beater, exactly how bad does your jeep ride with those springs? I mean, I used to have a ss camaro with poly bushings and everything, and when I got it the PO has some stupid 20's with really really lowpro tires on it. SO I am familiar with a bad ride

oh and this is the hood of my cherokee:

while browsing through west marine the other day (needed some quality rope to make some dog toys with) I saw where they have some kits to put those struts on anything. Come with two tab mounts and the strut. I think it was $30.

what size tire do you have? I have the 10 hole wheels with some 205/75/15's on there I think, I just got some new rubber a few months ago and can't remember what size it is. Smallest factory size I know though.

you are right, all the Evo owners tend to take it to a new level of snobby asshattery... /jk //true though...